Aluminium K Frame?

[Mike Gaines]

This ones pretty light

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On the QA1 website they weighted the stock k member at 41 lbs and the QA1 was 37 pounds...I think the AQ1 setup has benefits but their k member is only 4 lbs lighter than our oem k members....4 lbs not worth about 600 bucks.

 

[theman440]

On the QA1 website they weighted the stock k member at 41 lbs and the QA1 was 37 pounds...I think the AQ1 setup has benefits but their k member is only 4 lbs lighter than our oem k members....4 lbs not worth about 600 bucks.

Thanks for the info Mike! - I was thinking about buying one, but not now . . .

 

[glassman]

I still say that the John Holt Lightened K Member is the way to go if you are still needin torsion bars. All the SS/AH cars that goes through his shop gets one . You furnish the K member, he puts it on the jig , cuts, welds chrome moly tubing as needed and whala 1/2 weight of oem and it's all steel. Last one he did for me cost $750 and is in the 67 Belvedere we have for sale right now for a reduced price of $38000, yes it is a 9 second hemi car.

 

[Cranky]

I posted some modified stock K frames on here before and recently installed one in my car last month. The pinch/spot weld ledge has been totally cut off and then solid welded and addition openings were cut on the top half. The motor mount stands were lightened also. IIRC, it's 32 lbs which is around 10 lbs lighter than stock.

 

[Budnicks]

I haven't lifted my stock K-member, but I lifted my new QA1 K-member and it's seems light...and...pretty!

QA1 tubular k-frame
with stock motor & steering & sway bar mounts
appr. 36#'s-38#'s with hardware

QA1 LCA's with sway bar tabs welded on are appr. are 19#'s pair
8.5#'s each

SPC UCA's dbbl adj. on the car are appr. 14#'s pair
7#'s each

QA1 dynamic adj. strut rods are 5#'s pair
2.5#'s each

appr. 76#'s total

it's more like $1600

if you have stock stuff weight it (post the weights)
& see how much difference there is

 

[biomedtechguy]

QA1 tubular k-frame
with stock motor & steering & sway bar mounts
appr. 36#'s-38#'s with hardware

QA1 LCA's with sway bar tabs welded on are appr. are 19#'s pair
8.5#'s each

SPC UCA's dbbl adj. on the car are appr. 14#'s pair
7#'s each

QA1 dynamic adj. strut rods are 5#'s pair
2.5#'s each

appr. 76#'s total

it's more like $1600

if you have stock stuff weight it (post the weights)
& see how much difference there is

That is a well put together list....
Oh, wait! That's exactly what I got.
Thanks (again in perpetuity) Budnicks.

if you have stock stuff weight it (post the weights)

PLEASE!

 

[Badvert65]

Ok, these are for a stock 65 Belvedere.
Slant six K frame: 39 lbs
V-8 K frame: 37.8 lbs
Lower control arm (bare): 10 lbs each
Strut rod: 3.2 lbs each

Weighed on a digital medical scale, your results may vary.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Ok, these are for a stock 65 Belvedere.
Slant six K frame: 39 lbs
V-8 K frame: 37.8 lbs
Lower control arm (bare): 10 lbs each
Strut rod: 3.2 lbs each

Weighed on a digital medical scale, your results may vary.

64.2 pounds without the UCAs...
Add 14# for known UCAs (SPC) comes to 78.2# vs 76...
I got my complete front suspension system to address the age and wear and tear on my existing components, BUT more importantly for the added range of adjustments that I have with the new stuff. Also, with the mods I have planned, it all goes toward that "package" of boulevard bruiser, IMO.

 

[Cranky]

Dang photobucket has several of my pics hostage but one is showing an unmodified K frame at 42 lbs. Not sure if anyone can view them but there are 3 in the pic.... http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/crankshaftkid/media/cGF0aDovTVZDLTAyMFMtMy5qcGc=/?ref=

 

[Sahara]

Yeah the Qa1 is nice, but I have a nice swaybar that I don't think works with that set up. I have their upper control arms, pretty good quality stuff.

I’m using a QA1 front k frame in my ‘70 Coronet. The stock sway bar bolted right in no problem. Not sure if that helps you or not, just letting you know.

 

[MoparLeo]

The only reason for aluminum k-frames, bumpers, hoods, fenders etc... was for better rear weight bias and lower total weight on a straight running, quarter mile car. Never for a street car. Most people just don't think about the fact that a "race car" was never designed to live on the street. Just remember that a million dollar NASCAR race car only has to last a few hundred miles, not a hundred thousand miles. A quarter mile engine only has to last a quarter mile. Not very economical for daily driving. But it is good if you have a "race car". As always, "fun costs money, how much do you have to spend ?"

 

[Cranky]

The only reason for aluminum k-frames, bumpers, hoods, fenders etc... was for better rear weight bias and lower total weight on a straight running, quarter mile car. Never for a street car. Most people just don't think about the fact that a "race car" was never designed to live on the street. Just remember that a million dollar NASCAR race car only has to last a few hundred miles, not a hundred thousand miles. A quarter mile engine only has to last a quarter mile. Not very economical for daily driving. But it is good if you have a "race car". As always, "fun costs money, how much do you have to spend ?"

Don't see why someone with the know how and the tools to build an alloy K couldn't build one that would survive on the street. I've heard all of my adult life that you can't/shouldn't modify stock suspension parts but I've been doing it for most of my adult life and have had no problems. Maybe they were talking about the legal crap that might arise from being in a crash and someone noticed a broken modified part (due to the crash?) but who was thinking that way in the late 60's or even into the mid 70's? Nowadays you can be sued for just about anything at any time!

 

[70B5Cuda]

One of the things to consider is what will happen to aluminum (or cast steel) in an impact. I part out wrecked SRT8's and Mopar muscle cars. I recently bought and parted out a 1972 Challenger that had been equipped with XV front and rear suspension and a late model hemi. The front K member completely shattered in he impact and there was absolutely nothing left of it. All that was left was the aluminum plates that are bolted/sandwiched to the bottom of each front frame rails. Everything between the frame rails (including the steering rack and), was nowhere to be found. The only thing that held the late model 6.4L hemi engine in the engine compartment was the exhaust. The rear suspension was intact but the rear rails were completely trashed/bent as the energy was transferred.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

The only reason for aluminum k-frames, bumpers, hoods, fenders etc... was for better rear weight bias and lower total weight on a straight running, quarter mile car. Never for a street car. Most people just don't think about the fact that a "race car" was never designed to live on the street. Just remember that a million dollar NASCAR race car only has to last a few hundred miles, not a hundred thousand miles. A quarter mile engine only has to last a quarter mile. Not very economical for daily driving. But it is good if you have a "race car". As always, "fun costs money, how much do you have to spend ?"

My car has always been a street car.I can't afford a dedicated race car so I want the best of both worlds and almost at my goal of hitting my legal limit with a 3700 lb heap that gets street driven well over 1000 miles a year and if I can get to the track 4 or 5 times a year I'm happy.
I am legal to 8.50,so far the best pass is 9.3 through the exhaust.Now I have dumpers on the 4 inch pipe and will throw more than 6 lbs of boost at it and get to my goal.

 

[Badvert65]

One of the things to consider is what will happen to aluminum (or cast steel) in an impact. I part out wrecked SRT8's and Mopar muscle cars. I recently bought and parted out a 1972 Challenger that had been equipped with XV front and rear suspension and a late model hemi. The front K member completely shattered in he impact and there was absolutely nothing left of it. All that was left was the aluminum plates that are bolted/sandwiched to the bottom of each front frame rails. Everything between the frame rails (including the steering rack and), was nowhere to be found. The only thing that held the late model 6.4L hemi engine in the engine compartment was the exhaust. The rear suspension was intact but the rear rails were completely trashed/bent as the energy was transferred.

One thing to consider is that modern cars are designed to crumple and disintegrate, absorbing the crash energy and protecting the occupants. Our beloved older Mopars were designed 'sturdier' in order NOT to crumple easily.

 

[biomedtechguy]

the best pass is 9.3 through the exhaust

Street driven (for real) and those times...
Outstanding!

 

[Chad Witham]

This ones pretty light

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Would be even lighter without the engine mounts for us engine plate guys

 

[6PKRTSE]

Mine is also a 4 digit plus horsepower street car. I installed a new RMS AlrerKation kit on my 70' Challenger. Was it needed, no but it was free. Long story but free to me. I think it was close to 100 lbs weight savings. The major advantage for me was that I could run a top fuel flat bottom 10 qt oil pan due to how low my car sits no deep sump to worry about. Also made plenty of room for big tube header clearance with no more torsion bars.