So....
Here's a follow up.
AP sent out the 3rd TO bearing kit.
Recap:
*The first one I ordered, had "Passon Performance a855" on the order form, and I don't remember (It was last October) if they asked me the input shaft spline count, or "What transmission is the 855 like?" but of course I would say the "Hemi" 18 spline a833...They sent me the 23 spline kit, TO bearing, shims, and floating carrier aka anti spin spacer ALL too small inside diameter.
*The replacement they sent about 2½ weeks ago, and a shipping label to send the first one back, was a Ford part number and had "Ford"
only in
every description of it, and had "Ford" engraved and highlighted in white on the blue anodized anti spin spacer. No explanation or forewarning that "The 18 spline Mopar is a special order, and the one we sent is the indicated substitute" No thank you, I will wait for the "special order" Mopar specific kit.
*The last one they sent, which is now installed in my car, still had "Ford" on the blue anodized anti spin spacer, but supposedly the TO bearing was a smaller diameter to fit the (nose cone) input shaft bearing retainer. Now if that's the case, how in the hell was the 2nd (Ford) TO bearing with a larger inside diameter supposed to work? It seems to me like the ONLY difference between the 2nd one I got and the "special order" one that is installed was...the label on the box!
But wait! There's more..
The 3 scenarios for installation are:
Use the anti spin spacer and some of the shims
OR
Use just the spacer
OR
Replace the top right bearing retainer (nose cone) bolt with the supplied threaded stud, and some shims.
WELL it seems like a LOT of Mopar installations can't do ANY of those things. The spacer is too thick, the entire pack of shims isn't thick enough. I actually saw a video by doing a web search where a customer with a McLeod diaphragm style pressure plate (like I have) had to use all of the shims and then machine 2 hardened large washers they were lucky enough to have and be able to machine in order to get the correct gap between the TO bearing surface and the fingers of the pressure plate!
Well in my case the mechanic was able to determine the required spacer thickness that needed to be in place and had the blue anodized anti spin spacer machined down to make the gap .135. Normally the gap target is .150, no less than .100 and no more than .200. As the disc wears, the fingers "stand up more" taking up some space in the gap. If the gap is too small (.100 or less) as the finger rise, they could contact the TO bearing and make the clutch slip. Too much gap (.200+) and the clutch may not release. Since my disc is about 2 years old, I think .135 is perfect.
My mechanic, the shop owner, is knowledgeable, and extremely detail oriented, proactive kind of mechanic a customer like me needs. Too many people wouldn't think of compensating for a slightly worn disc. He also replaced all of my bellhousing bolts, helicoiled some threaded holes that REALLY needed it, replaced one starter bolt with a stud. I have had problems with one of the transmission to bellhousing bolts getting loose. He said stainless steel bolts are notorious for backing out. Irregardless of the "why" I've had problems with bolts getting loose, now ALL of them are top grade hardened bolts, and he used ARP bolts to hold the bellhousing to the block.
I am VERY happy to have him doing the work, and I am going into the next phase of driving and racing my car with a new found degree of security and peace of mind so I can focus on tuning the Assassin traction bars, front and rear shocks, and dialing in the HitMaster launch control. I also know that the work done will not have to be redone or upgraded once my much more powerful stroker motor goes in, I'll just have some new additional upgrades to make.
One final note: Even though I bought a pair of each of the 3 degrees of offset Robb Mc dowels for the bellhousing, the stock 0° dowels were what was needed, and Robb Mc had already said I could return any unused dowels for full refund. The Brownell runout jig I bought for $175 was worth me being absolutely certain that the bellhousing runout is well within the .010 total runout allowed.
Here's a picture of my TO bearing setup:
Hopefully the side of the blue spacer that had "Ford" on it was the side they machined off...lol!
Hydramax 
