Ammeter Bypass?

[dodge68charger]

Hey Guys I Got The Ammeter Bypass Conversion Done On My 1969 Roadrunner.

I Sent It To Classic Instruments And They Converted The Ammeter To a Voltmeter

I Tied The Red and Black Original Ammeter Wires Together.

What Other Steps Did I Need To Take For The Rest Of The Wiring In The Engine Bay? A Wire From The Alternator To Starter Relay?

Thanks

 

[hunt2elk]

Lots of threads on here about your options for the conversion. Do a search.....

 

[72ls5fla]

I did the ALT to starter relay wire on my 1970 Challenger.
Before I did the Ammeter jumper wire.
There was virtually no load ever showing on the gauge. Helped with dimming head lights at idle as well.


But be VERY sure you put an inline fuse with the wire from the ALT to the starter relay.
If the ALT ever internally shorts out you WILL catch your car on fire without it.

The other Achilles heal with early mopars is the fuse block bulk head where the male and female spade connectors join, specially the one that carries all the load for the ammeter.
But since you now have voltmeter, probably not that big of a deal.

Bill

 

[dodge68charger]

Thank You!!

Just Wondering What Size Wire And Fuse You Ran From The Alternator To Starter Relay?

Thanks

 

[mquinn66]

https://www.allpar.com/threads/taki...ep-your-mopar-current.237043/#post-1085245456

 

[dodge68charger]

Great Read. It Answered Some Questions For Me. Thank You!

 

[Billccm]

Great Read. It Answered Some Questions For Me. Thank You!

Your in box is full. I can send you a video link that might help.

 

[dodge68charger]

Your in box is full. I can send you a video link that might help.

I Cleared Some Space. If I Doesn’t Work I ll Send My Email. Thanks

 

[1968rt]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml and part 2

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Hey Guys I Got The Ammeter Bypass Conversion Done On My 1969 Roadrunner.

I Sent It To Classic Instruments And They Converted The Ammeter To a Voltmeter

I Tied The Red and Black Original Ammeter Wires Together.

What Other Steps Did I Need To Take For The Rest Of The Wiring In The Engine Bay? A Wire From The Alternator To Starter Relay?

Thanks

Other steps? Should have been the first step, bypass the charge circuit bulkhead connectors, by far the weakest link in the original design. For those who have not yet mutilated their ammeter, check its connections, insulators, and then leave it alone. Learn to understand the information it provides. It will not spontaneously combust for no reason as some continue to propagate.

As mentioned, there is plenty of fact-based information, and just as much not-so fact-based opinions, on this topic already posted here, do a search.

 

[72ls5fla]

If you just do the ALT to starter relay wire you will reduced 80% or more of the load that wire could have placed on it.

then there is no real reason to modify the ammeter gauge.

like posted above. Make sure connections are clean and make sure the little insulator discs on the gauge are not brittle or cracked.

They really do not just catch fire for no reason.

 

[Crackedback]

Depends on how you did the bypass. If you followed madd which I'm not a fan of, then put a fuse/fusible link in that now attaches at the starter relay that feeds the cabin.

If you left all the OEM wiring in place, place a fusible link in the charge wire from alt to starter relay.

Sizing of charge line depends on alternator. Most are OEM output alts are fine with an 8ga and 12ga fusible link.

 

[RM23M9A]

I did the ALT to starter relay wire on my 1970 Challenger.
Before I did the Ammeter jumper wire.
There was virtually no load ever showing on the gauge. Helped with dimming head lights at idle as well.


But be VERY sure you put an inline fuse with the wire from the ALT to the starter relay.
If the ALT ever internally shorts out you WILL catch your car on fire without it.

The other Achilles heal with early mopars is the fuse block bulk head where the male and female spade connectors join, specially the one that carries all the load for the ammeter.
But since you now have voltmeter, probably not that big of a deal.

Bill

Modern rebuilt alternators are trash. Apparently mine just shorted, I caught it by noticing no fuel guage, horns, and -20 on my Ammeter. Been trying to AVOID molesting an OEM harness, but just can trust these altrrnators any longer-
Thanks!

 

[RM23M9A]

Short from Alt feed to bulkhead.

 

[451Mopar]

Hey Guys I Got The Ammeter Bypass Conversion Done On My 1969 Roadrunner.

I Sent It To Classic Instruments And They Converted The Ammeter To a Voltmeter

I Tied The Red and Black Original Ammeter Wires Together.

What Other Steps Did I Need To Take For The Rest Of The Wiring In The Engine Bay? A Wire From The Alternator To Starter Relay?

Thanks

Alternator output wire to Battery Positive or Starter relay should be sized according to the alternator rating and current demand.
The fuse at the battery / starter relay should be a slow-blow fuse like a maxi-fuse or mega-fuse that is rated to protect the wire gauge size.
The fuse is there to protect the wire, not the alternator.
You can always go larger with the wire size. It will have less resistance and heat build-up, but weigh and cost more.
I have used the Power Master 1-5412 alternator wire that is 4AWG and 12 feet long. It is likely over kill in most cases, but the alternator on my car is pretty far from the trunk mounted battery. The shorter the wire the less voltage drop it will have, so a short run can use thinner wire without much voltage drop, but it still needs to be sized to handle the current.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-1-5412
With the 4 AWG wire, I would use an 80-Amp Mega Fuse at the starter relay or battery.

On the bulkhead connector, with the voltage gauge, you can feed fused (fuseable link) battery power into both battery and alternator bulkhead connectors to split the load on the bulkhead connectors in half.

 

[hunt2elk]

Lots of threads on here about your options for the conversion. Do a search.....

@Chargered. Time to explain why a statement like this deserves a big red X. Seems pretty straightforward to me.....

 

[RJRENTON]

@Chargered. Time to explain why a statement like this deserves a big red X. Seems pretty straightforward to me.....

ABSOLUTELY.....this subject has been reiterated at least 200+ times by experts who offer viable alternatives and reasons and those that have no knowledge of the subject, but just want to say something, even though what they say is valueless...... Perhaps the subject should be a "sticky" to prevent the FBBO server from being overwhelmed and exploding........ Just my opinion of course
BOB RENTON