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Junction Block

jpurcell

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Location
Louisville TN
1963 Sport Fury Convertible, 318, auto trans...

Was having some electrical problems so tore into the wiring. Oh Boy! PO had rewired lots of stuff I am dealing with. My question concerns the Ammeter Black wire (R-6A). The wiring diagram shows a junction box (big black circle) that joins Ammeter Black (R-6A) with Ignition Red (J-1), Light Switch Black (B-1 terminal, not sure wire #... my diagram is cut off), and Fuse Block Red-Tr (Q-3).

This is all under the dash. The PO had spliced the Ignition, Light Switch, and Fuse Block wires together in two different places on the Black R-6A wire instead of using a junction block. I am assuming it is missing, but where would I look? What is the best way to correct? Is there a part number for the right junction block or a good generic replacement? I don't really want to splice the wires, but would that be OK?

Thanks in advance!
 
I can't speak for 1963, but in later years those wires were spliced together without a juction block. Does it actually state juction block on your wiring diagram?
 
No, it just has a large black dot which I understand can represent a junction block on wiring diagrams. No problem splicing, just looks ugly! But who's going to look?
 
Would it be crazy to use a wire nut to connect these wire together? (2 12 gauge and 3 10 gauge). What's the best way?
 
Between a new engine wiring harness and splicing all the aforementioned wires together in one place, battery charging problem solved. Also cleaned up all the wiring connections.
 
No junction block on the splice mentioned (big dot on diagrams) but a big splice electrically solded


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Would it be crazy to use a wire nut to connect these wire together? (2 12 gauge and 3 10 gauge). What's the best way?
Absolutely would be a no-no to use a wire nut on any automotive wiring. They should be cleaned & twisted together and soldered. Then taped. No wire nuts allowed unless you plan on burning your car down.
 
Wire nuts could work for some areas, but I wouldn’t use it for the main charging wiring circuit which tipically gets warm or even hot depending on your charging system balance.

So hot that is not weird you can find melted conectors, bulkhead etc… depending on your alt capacity, where you source added accesories, wires/terminal conditions etc…

If not soldering, better attach eyelet terminals on each wire and join together with screw and nut if the wires will be floating around or hidden down the tape… or use a junction block if is close to some sheetmetal to attach it.

Huge variety of joints/block if you google it.

Editing:

A small version of this could be nice since wouldn’t need any tape and could be hanging around, but stud is M10 (designed to the main battery wiring) too large for the dash wiring section.

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