Amp meter elimination

[Nacho-RT74]

OK, read it. I have to tell you that electronics is not my strong point, but thanks to your thread, I understand this ammeter "problem" a little better than I ever have. I DID have the "normal" discharge, dimming lights etc. at idle. Always thought it was just the nature of the beast.

Initially it was... and is Chrysler design fault.

The low capacity alt from fact was the first step for the burns failure. Then the rest.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

And of course needs to take care everything is in good conditions. Amm studs begin to get loose due the heat, because they are installed by pressure inside the gauge. Heat gets softened the copper and looses the pressure.

 

[oldbee]

I kinda disagreed with "natcho's" posts before,but with re-reading and all he's exactly right. See the main problem is keeping connections clean and NOT adding any accessories to the load the alt. sees. C'mon guys do we need anything but an AM radio&heater??? LOL. That's the way mine came & I "THINK" I'll leave it like that. The wife's car has all the bells&whistles if I want it. Jeez, every vehicle now has 100amp alternators for all the defrosters,heated seats,computers. No parasitic drains on my car! Before I changed distributors a nuclear air burst wouldn't have fried my electronics,none there!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

You can add anything you want, making it correctly.

Correct side of the amm
Correct source rate ( alt )
Correct wiring mantenience and conections.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW! The stock alts weren't enough to feed EVEN THE STOCK parts! Maybe the max output rate could, but if you are not feeding at iddle, then problems begin. Why should I keep throttle open to source correctly the car?

 

[Ranger16]

Just out of curiosity, what would you consider a minimum amperage output alternator for a non A/C factory Road Runner?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I would NEVER consider an alt able to give less than 45 amps iddling. No matter if doesn't have AC. The Blower is the same between AC and Heater which is the bigger sucker of all the car.

Wiper motor sucks a lot too.

If you barelly use your car to turn on wipers and Blower, the alt capacity won't be required and won't be feeded, so won't hurt anything.

And you'll notice how the rest of the equipment will get better performance, including ignition system.

 

[Ranger16]

That's good to hear as I have to correct my earlier statement of a 70 amp alt. I think it was 50 or 55 amp.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

A 50 or 55 amp will reach that output maybe at 1800-2000 engine RPM ( depending on the pulley diameter ), but not iddiling. Iddling maybe will source half of that

 

[Ranger16]

OK, but do I need that output at idle? Like I said, I no longer see a voltage drop or dimming lights at idle.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The best alt is the one keeps the power without ammeter drop ( discharge ) with the max devices as posible turned on ( assuming wiring is in good conditions )

The final test could be turning on not just the lights but also the heater/vent at max speed. If voltage or amperage drops noticeably, you need more power coming from alt.

You can try also with wipers and will be a better output test.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

And need to add... parallel path between alt post and ammeter black post, because the packard terminals are not helpfull on this.

This is not my invention! MaMopar did it on fleet cars to save the bulkhead terminals weakness

 

[Ranger16]

I'll test it when I reconnect the ammeter. Thanks for all the advice.