Amps

[Turbobus]

Keep in mind...it really doesn't matter what the rated output of an alternator is, if your car isn't demanding that amount of current.
The alternator will only 'get excited' enough to provide the current that your system is ***** for...in other words, you could strap a 200A alternator on there but if your car's total demand is 40A, the alternator will only squirt out 40A.

I get that, it’s a load dependent piece of equipment just like you explained. The problem is at idle 850 rpm it goes to discharge with only the ignition being used, no other loads placed on the system, no fan, lights etc. the alternator I ordered claims 100 amp and more than 30 amps at idle, so right now I’m doing the fleet bypass per 72 GTXRoadrunner excellent diagrams. So when I call the manufacturer of this alternator I can explain that the harnesses are new with the factory connector delete 60+ amp wiring diagram from Chrysler and simplified for idiots by GTX. I’ve ohmed out all grounds and they seem fine, same as leads, maybe barking up the wrong tree, could be regulator but tried three others, maybe I need an arborist to show me to the right tree bark at
Thanks for your help, if you have other suggestions please bring them up, Thanks

 

[kiwigtx]

I run a 75 Amp Powermaster alternator, and physically it looks identical to the 37 Amp Mopar stock alternator - except for the square back.

Since I am not doing a points car, I don't care about the square back.

 

[Turbobus]

I run a 75 Amp Powermaster alternator, and physically it looks identical to the 37 Amp Mopar stock alternator - except for the square back.

Since I am not doing a points car, I don't care about the square back.

No issues with idle

I run a 75 Amp Powermaster alternator, and physically it looks identical to the 37 Amp Mopar stock alternator - except for the square back.

Since I am not doing a points car, I don't care about the square back.

No issues with output at idle? We all have pet peeves and one of mine is diminished alternator function, reduced illumination, blower speed etc.

 

[kiwigtx]

Mine runs fine - even with A/C running. Lights don't dim noticeably.

 

[beanhead]

I get that, it’s a load dependent piece of equipment just like you explained. The problem is at idle 850 rpm it goes to discharge with only the ignition being used, no other loads placed on the system, no fan, lights etc. the alternator I ordered claims 100 amp and more than 30 amps at idle, so right now I’m doing the fleet bypass per 72 GTXRoadrunner excellent diagrams. So when I call the manufacturer of this alternator I can explain that the harnesses are new with the factory connector delete 60+ amp wiring diagram from Chrysler and simplified for idiots by GTX. I’ve ohmed out all grounds and they seem fine, same as leads, maybe barking up the wrong tree, could be regulator but tried three others, maybe I need an arborist to show me to the right tree bark at
Thanks for your help, if you have other suggestions please bring them up, Thanks

Okay now we're getting some info!

It's fairly normal for the OE-style alternators to NOT put out great at idle, especially "new" parts store units...that said they can still do okay.

However! If you're actually showing a discharge at idle then something's wrong IF you're confident the battery is good!
I'd do a quick full-field test on the alternator to rule it out as a suspect.

If you aren't familiar with the full-field test it's relatively painless and doesn't take long.
Safely remove the wire from the alternator's field terminal and jump that terminal to the BATT terminal on the alternator (small piece of wire with alligator clips works great).
Your gauge should now show full charge IF the alternator's okay (if you're using a meter, voltage should spike to a higher-than-normal reading, maybe something like 16+ volts).
--Only keep the terminals jumped together for as long as it takes you to pop around and see the gauge reading!
If it still shows a discharge, it's an alternator problem, possibly (usually) a bad/open diode.
If it shows a full charge, the alternator's good and you have some more investigating to do!

 

[Turbobus]

Okay now we're getting some info!

It's fairly normal for the OE-style alternators to NOT put out great at idle, especially "new" parts store units...that said they can still do okay.

However! If you're actually showing a discharge at idle then something's wrong IF you're confident the battery is good!
I'd do a quick full-field test on the alternator to rule it out as a suspect.

If you aren't familiar with the full-field test it's relatively painless and doesn't take long.
Safely remove the wire from the alternator's field terminal and jump that terminal to the BATT terminal on the alternator (small piece of wire with alligator clips works great).
Your gauge should now show full charge IF the alternator's okay (if you're using a meter, voltage should spike to a higher-than-normal reading, maybe something like 16+ volts).
--Only keep the terminals jumped together for as long as it takes you to pop around and see the gauge reading!
If it still shows a discharge, it's an alternator problem, possibly (usually) a bad/open diode.
If it shows a full charge, the alternator's good and you have some more investigating to do!

Thanks for the input! It’s a new alternator but new doesn’t mean good. I’ll check it out!

 

[beanhead]

Thanks for the input! It’s a new alternator but new doesn’t mean good. I’ll check it out!

Test it anyway!
Let us know what happens.