another 318 Build question: Heads/Cam

[TopBanana72]

Thanks in advance for any opinions or experience or what you would do if you were me. I'll be as precise as possible.

THE CAR: 1972 Dodge Charger, base hardtop, all original equipment 318 car, 904, 8.25, 2.71

THE PURPOSE OF CAR: This is my highway cruiser. It will never see a race track, but I love it for cruising. Looking for a bit more performance for highway passing, coming up to speed, some "spirited" driving if you will. Nothing crazier than that. Don't care about burnouts with this car.

CURRENT STATE OF CAR: It is a 128,000 mile tired engine car. I removed and disassembled the engine and sent the block and crank to the machine shop. It's done with a .30 overbore. Everything else checks out fine (Mopar goodness). Rods are good, main caps and crankshaft great shape too. I will be keeping the stock rods and crank. I also do not want to change any of the other driveline components like TQ or rear gears at this time. Probably will never re-do an engine for this one, so I'm being careful with the planning here as I want it to last a long time and enjoy it on the open roads. Planning on driving it to Carlisle this summer.

WHAT I HAVE (and would like to use):
KB167 pistons to replace the old ones.
Existing Edelbrock Performer 318-360 intake.
Existing Edelbrock 650 AVS2 carb.
Existing dual exhaust (2.25" off stock manifolds, no crossovers, Flowmaster 40's).
New distributer (stock style, Chrysler electronic ignition replacement).
Existing valve train (rockers, shafts and pushrods all look good).

THE QUESTION:
What heads and cam should I get for the engine? (I don't intend to use the old heads - too worn out.)
THANKS!

 

[TopBanana72]

oops, I meant .030 overbore

 

[Slap Stick]

Best bang for the buck for what you stated is better gears. An exhaust ex-over will help, also.

 

[493 Mike]

Re curve that distributor advance. More compression would help (cylinder heads with smaller combustion chambers) too, provided you don't object to spending more for higher octane fuel. Perfecting fuel jetting also will help with your goals.
Mike

 

[F4R/T]

I went with a old lunati solid lifter with x heads and eddy intake, jumped the squeeze up to 10.3, headers balanced it, steel crank, stock rods, arp bolts, windage tray , recurve Distrubutor with an old avs... runs great.. same car you, I did go with 4:11 and a 2500 stall converter, runs good and very fun.

 

[Darter6]

You question about heads and cam. If wanting aftermarket, Edelbrock is a well known name.
There are others but price may be a factor.

Some guys are using SpeedMaster heads. Check out 318willrun youtube videos. He is a member on A bodies.
I installed a Comp part # 20-212-2 Grind # CRS 268H-10 in my 318. Works for me.Daily driver B body.

 

[YY1]

Cheap answer-

"302" heads and an RV style torque cam that doesn't give up low end.

You should be able to do much better than the .400 stock lift without affecting the low end.


...but "here we go"........again.

 

[TopBanana72]

OK, I got the 302 heads and a mild Lunati cam on the way. Will be assembling in the next few days...

 

[camgrinder]

More duration will kill the bottom end, more lift will increase torque. Nothing bigger that the factory 340 hp cam. advance it 2 degrees for even more torque.

 

[toolmanmike]

More duration will kill the bottom end, more lift will increase torque. Nothing bigger that the factory 340 hp cam. advance it 2 degrees for even more torque.

Yep. It's pretty easy to over cam a teen then oops, there goes your bottom end. With a 2.71 rear gear you will need all the low rpm torque you can make.

 

[451Mopar]

You could convert to the magnum style heads with pushrod oiling and stud mount rockers.
I think they flow better and have small chambers to raise compression.
Check INDYs web page, and I thought Engine Quest was selling a conversion head also that would accept the LA style intake manifold?
The Hughes Engines cams are nice, and something with about 210 @ 0.050" duration should work nicely.
I had the 210/216 in my 360 and it was nice, but fairly mild. The 216/220 is what is in the engine now, and I really like it. still on the mild side, but was looking for good low rpm torque.

 

[TopBanana72]

Sweet!, I got the reman 302's from Jegs today and they already have the smog holes tapped

 

[TopBanana72]

More duration will kill the bottom end, more lift will increase torque. Nothing bigger that the factory 340 hp cam. advance it 2 degrees for even more torque.

I got a really mild Lunati... 112 LSA, 410 lift

 

[toolmanmike]

Sweet!, I got the reman 302's from Jegs today and they already have the smog holes tapped

Bonus!

 

[YY1]

I got a really mild Lunati... 112 LSA, 410 lift

care to tell us which one?

 

[451Mopar]

I got a really mild Lunati... 112 LSA, 410 lift

That sounds really mild. An Original equipment 360 cam is 0.410"/0.412" lift, and 252/256 advertised duration.

Even the mild 10200260LK "high efficiency" cam with 204/216 @ 0.050 duration has 0.427/0.454" lift

 

[YY1]

That is mild, but likely has a modern, fast ramp design and has more lift and duration than the stock 318 cam.

Might be just what the doctor ordered.

I'll go get some popcorn.....

 

[451Mopar]

I was just trying to figure which cam it is?

 

[TopBanana72]

I was just trying to figure which cam it is?

High Efficiency Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter Kit - Chrysler 273-360 245/255
Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam. Good torque in 318 c.i. motor and good economy in 360 c.i. motor. Smooth idle. ;Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 245/255 ;Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 195/205 ;Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .405/.427 ;LSA/ICL: 112 ;Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd ;RPM Range: Idle-4000 ;Includes: Cam & Lifters (#71977PR-16)

 

[TopBanana72]

Actually, I just got off the phone with them. They don't have the stock to make it. Materials shortages they said. I thought it was off the shelf item, but... Now I will search for something I can buy and get quicker.