Another 318 build to ponder.

[RemCharger]

For either? 500 bucks to acquire and build up a 360? Are we talking straight stock "as from the factory"? Or ...?

I meant 500 to get a 360 to start with.
The rest of the rebuild costs will be the same regardless of the exact cubic inch designation. So it's 40hp for free.
Get a b&m flexplate, and you may have to oblong one bolt hole in your crank pulley.

 

[roadrunninMark]

Wayne,

I am looking at the speedmaster (if I can get them for the black friday sale) or pro maxx heads. I would really like the Trickflows but dont want to spend 2000 or so on heads/rockers...the 318 is going to be a street car engine, not crazy like the road runner. I am trying to keep it budget friendly though I did go retro roller cam. I am hoping for about 400hp backed up by an 8hp70 trans (splurged there too, was going for the 42RH but I never do anything easy when it comes to transmissions).

 

[F4R/T]

You may want to seriously consider your set up.. Rear ring and pinion, tire size, engine cam etc. Modern trans like that are very precise and it all must relate to each other. I think most cars come with a 3.06 ratio or similar gear. So don’t forget about programming, physical size, torque converter and management of it.. You want that engine to be in the right rpm for what your wanting to do...Those things are always shifting.. how will it work with your cam? I’m not trying to be rude but make sure you factor it in.. just food for thought that’s all.

 

[WileE]

Ok, in your original post you mentioned selling the 273 to help finance this build. If you're going to use parts off the 273 then you are pretty much committed to the 318 as the rotating assembly (less the pistons) is the same. Spending the same amount on a 318 and a 360, the 360 will still make more power than the 318.

The 360 was originally used in trucks, and is a good torque motor (longer stroke compared to the 318/340) and became the HP engine after the demise of the 340, and can use many of the 340's HP parts, minus the rotating assembly. If you're looking to make some power, the cheaper way to go is the 360. In the end it will always be 40 cubes bigger.

I have nothing against a 318, and if it was the original motor, I'd say go nuts and build the crap out of it, but it's not.

Mark

I agree. Believe me ,I love a 318, back in the day I slightly modded my daily driver Satellite that showed its taillights to more than one small block Chevy. But if you're doing a block/pistons job, I'd buy a 360 block in preference. And, going through all that, dump the log manifolds, maximize it with headers since it's not a "stock" resto. An engine is a simple air pump, more in > more out.

 

[Master Gunner]

400 HP out of a 318 that has "street manners" ain't gonna be real easy or cheap, it's doable, but you're going to need headers, a good exhaust system, and some expensive parts and machining. You're going to have to run pump premium at a minimum, and probably aluminum heads and some porting.

The easiest way to do it would be to stroke it, but then we're back to the whole 318 vs 360 game again. Which ever way you decide to go keep us informed on the progress.

Mark

 

[66Satellite47]

400 HP out of a 318 that has "street manners" ain't gonna be real easy or cheap, it's doable, but you're going to need headers, a good exhaust system, and some expensive parts and machining. You're going to have to run pump premium at a minimum, and probably aluminum heads and some porting.

The easiest way to do it would be to stroke it, but then we're back to the whole 318 vs 360 game again. Which ever way you decide to go keep us informed on the progress.

Mark

Said it previous posts, a 360 will get performance much easier and cheaper. But a guy can do what he wants & spend what he wants.

 

[roadrunninMark]

I have the machine work done already and pistons in the block, so it would be a step backwards for me for a 360. Alum heads on the way. I followed some of the "junkyard jewel" build up from Motor trend (except the pistons, heads and cam, of course). If they can get 400hp from that, I should be fairly close. I spent the bucks on the parts that will make the biggest differences: pistons, cam, heads. Right now I am at 9.4 to 1 compression using a calculator. I can up that if needed by milling the heads down some but would rather not.

Going with the stock 2.76 gear ratio. The first gear in the "8" is 4.71 with final o/d .6667 My 318 will have at least the same or more hp than a 5.7 and weigh at least 1000 lbs less. Stock convertor and less diameter wheels should be no issues running that transmission.

 

[davek]

It should run good. Nothing wrong with a 318. A member on FABO just built a stroker (392 cubes) and it dyno'd @ 475 hp/486 tq. Now you can't argue with that. Picking up my 318/392 Stroker Friday

would love to see his parts list,keeping my 318 in the charger and plan on building it. Did he ever get it done?

 

[toolmanmike]

would love to see his parts list,keeping my 318 in the charger and plan on building it. Did he ever get it done?

There is a build sheet and cam info on the thread. I provided a link.

 

[TAZZ]

Here’s my 318 build.

Plan is to use most of what I have and as usual it’s a budget build. The goal is a good performing street ride in my 66 Coronet. It’s got 3:23’s , 904 with the A&A low first gear set. Shift kit, 5k governor with the higher shift point 1-2 shift spring. advertised 3k street rod converter. Not looking to tear up the streets but a fun car that’s pretty quick, can run on the highway, has AC and runs on pump gas.
I have the following parts that I can use:
302 heads cut .050 to 54 cc, larger 360 valves, port/polish, blended bowls, matched to the intake. PC seals and new springs for the cam. 273 adjustable rockers and custom length pushrods.
I have a Summit CHRYSLER Summit Racing SUM-K6901 Summit Racing™ Classic Cam and Lifter Kits | Summit Racing Duration 276/288, Lift .441/.441 cam but also considering the Lunati 10200702LK VooDoo 702 stick Duration 262/268, Lift .475/.494
600 Edelbrock carb and LD4B intake
Mopar Dist with chrome box recurved and a blaster 2 coil
I have a complete rebuilt 273 short block that I can sell or use the polished forged crank reworked rods with arp bolts in the 318.
The 318 would be bored .030, line honed and the deck cleaned. My plan is to use a set of the KBPKB167KTM.030 or another recommend piston and since they are around .015 above the deck use the Fel-Pro 521SD head gaskets.
I would prefer to run exhaust manifolds to keep with a somewhat stock appearance so looking for recommendations. I have a late model LA series set but they are 2-1/4 pipes and the rest of the exhaust is a 2-1/2 mandril bent system with a cross over so I hate to choke it down. A nice set of 340 ones are out of the budget. Might look at a set of the short style headers if I can’t find a suitable pair of irons.

So, this is the basis of my plan! Please provide any thoughts or recommended changes. Also, if anyone is near Manchester MD 21102 that’s selling a 318 short block, please let me know.

Thanks,
Wayne

Well, how did things turn out for you? Did you get the vroom, vroom you were looking for? Having a 318 built right now that they say will make 400hp. My 318 already had 360 heads, headers and a 340/360 intake with a 600-650 edelbrock on top of it.