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Another stall speed query!

uk-maxie

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Hi all, looking for a bit of help to understand what stall speed we need for our application.
I've read thru many threads on here which have given conflicting info, so still none the wiser to be honest!
It's a 69 Sport Satellite that we recently fitted a 493 stroker from a well known and well-regarded (as far as i know) engine builder. We asked them to source a compatible converter and ship it over to us in the UK with the engine, which they did.
Once the engine was built and dyno'd they gave TCI the info and shipped the lot as arranged.
As soon as we had it all up and running we noticed a big difference in how the trans worked compared to how our old set up was, which we knew was never quite right. What we used to find was that the engine revs would drop a few hundred when going from neutral to drive, so consequently we had to have the idle speed set quite high in neutral so it didnt drop too low when put in gear. It seemed a bit more sluggish than it should have too. So from what I understand now i guess we had a converter with too low a stall speed.
With the new combo we noticed that we didnt have this problem and that the engine revved freely and felt really lively. So all seemed fine and dandy!
But we soon realised that the firmness of the shifts had all but disappeared (the shift kit in the trans used to give firm shifts) and it felt like it was always slipping when driving at slower speeds. So we started to look into what converter had been supplied.
We found that it's a Super Streetfighter which i've just been told by TCI after emailing them has a stall speed of 3500.We were thinking it was around 3000 so it's even worse than we thought!
This maybe fine for a car that spends most of its time on the 1/4 mile but 95% time we'll be using the car for driving to events with the occasional bit of racing. So most of the time we'll be at 50-70 mph, ie 2000-3000 rpm.
The engine spec was always intended to be streetable and be able to cope with traffic and work with power brakes, so it has a 484 purple shaft with 114 lsa and 241 deg duration at 0.050. Rear gears are 3.55 and rear tires are 28" tall.
When I asked the engine builder why we'd been charged over $900 for the converter, they said TCI were worried that 'we would have an issue due to the torque we are making'. The dyno sheet shows 687 lbft @ 4200!
In the next couple of weeks we are hoping to have the car put on a rolling road so we'll see how realistic this number really is (allowing for losses etc) but at it stands, it looks to me that if TCI's sole criteria for selecting a converter for our application, given all the above info, was just the torque it's making, we've paid way more than necessary as it's most likely - according to everyone i've spoken to - that figure is optimistic to say the least! And from a seat-of-the-pants point of view, that stall is way too high also.
The guy at TCI who confirmed the stall is 3500 is convinced it's the right converter for the job.
So, I was hoping to get some second opinions, especially if anyone else here has a 440 with a fairly mild cam. This cam has a range of 2200-6000, so going by a theory I got from a Summit video on Youtube, we need a stall speed 500 rpm greater than the starting range of the cam. Which puts us at 2700.

Any thought, anyone? Thanks in advance
 
That sounds a bit high to me for the application. Drag racing it’s about right. Your 2700 estimate is what I would shoot for.
 
Some like to say that TCI stands for Total Crap Inside.
I've had some experience with converters that are too loose and yes, it sucks! My car felt like a boat on the water at low to medium speeds.
At WOT, it ran great...The engine revved up, the converter tightened up and it ran like a rocket.
While cruising along, I'd lean on the gas to speed up a bit and it would feel lazy.
I ended up going with a 11" converter from Ultimate Converter Concepts. It is perfect for the way that I drive. I also have a 440/493 but I have a cam a little bigger than you, the Mopar Performance 284/528 solid.
 
Echo Kern Dogs post. Also had a horrible converter that acted exactly like his, except mine didn't work under full throttle either. See a you tube video by Hughes Performance, episode 5, torque converters, what is stall speed. Ive been doing this quite a while, and i still sure learned some things. Excellent informative video!
A really good converter will drive almost normally and still give raped-ape performance. You dont have one.
Edit: unfortunately , $900 is not out of line for an excellent converter, especially shipped to UK.
 
Last edited:
This is what folks don’t understand about converters. Below that 3500 stall speed it will feel like a slipping turd.
So if you want to cruise around at RPM below the stall speed it won’t have firm shifts no matter how you built the transmission.

TCI makes quality racing parts. They don’t make street cruising parts, sorry.
 
I'm happy with the Dynamic converter behind my 493.
Mike
 
Some like to say that TCI stands for Total Crap Inside.
I've had some experience with converters that are too loose and yes, it sucks! My car felt like a boat on the water at low to medium speeds.
At WOT, it ran great...The engine revved up, the converter tightened up and it ran like a rocket.
While cruising along, I'd lean on the gas to speed up a bit and it would feel lazy.
I ended up going with a 11" converter from Ultimate Converter Concepts. It is perfect for the way that I drive. I also have a 440/493 but I have a cam a little bigger than you, the Mopar Performance 284/528 solid.

Thanks Kern Dog. What stall does your 11" give, approx?
 
Maybe 2500-2800...?
Hard to know for sure though. It accelerates off of idle like normal late model cars do but when I hammer it, the tires just spin so I am not totally clear on the specifics.
It sure is a huge improvement over the 10" locally built converter that I had.
A 500 inch engine with a cam like mine does not need a lot of stall speed to perform well. A 383 with a bigger cam would.
I read in the service manuals that a stock 340 had approximately 2350 rpm stall, a 426 Hemi was approx 2650. The Hemi needed rpm to run, the 340 was a short stroke and big valve engine. A longer stroke doesn't need the rpms to make power so a lesser stall rating is a better fit for a 4.15 stroke 440 engine.
 
Echo Kern Dogs post. Also had a horrible converter that acted exactly like his, except mine didn't work under full throttle either. See a you tube video by Hughes Performance, episode 5, torque converters, what is stall speed. Ive been doing this quite a while, and i still sure learned some things. Excellent informative video!
A really good converter will drive almost normally and still give raped-ape performance. You dont have one.
Edit: unfortunately , $900 is not out of line for an excellent converter, especially shipped to UK.

Thanks 33 Imp, yes I've seen that Hughes video too. I wouldn't have minded paying $900 for the right converter but it looks like we've got to shell out all over again for a different one now. The cost may have included shipping to Ohio, where it was shipped to us from but didn't include shipping to the UK as it came in the engine crate. Plus, the one they sold us is now $670 on their website so it looks like we paid extra for the personal service...
 
Maybe 2500-2800...?
Hard to know for sure though. It accelerates off of idle like normal late model cars do but when I hammer it, the tires just spin so I am not totally clear on the specifics.
It sure is a huge improvement over the 10" locally built converter that I had.
A 500 inch engine with a cam like mine does not need a lot of stall speed to perform well. A 383 with a bigger cam would.
I read in the service manuals that a stock 340 had approximately 2350 rpm stall, a 426 Hemi was approx 2650. The Hemi needed rpm to run, the 340 was a short stroke and big valve engine. A longer stroke doesn't need the rpms to make power so a lesser stall rating is a better fit for a 4.15 stroke 440 engine.

Great info, thanks. Yes I saw a chart from a 1970 service manual on here the other day with a list of factory stall speeds. I was surprised how high they were!
 
Hi all, looking for a bit of help to understand what stall speed we need for our application.
This cam has a range of 2200-6000, so going by a theory I got from a Summit video on Youtube, we need a stall speed 500 rpm greater than the starting range of the cam. Which puts us at 2700.

Any thought, anyone? Thanks in advance

Question:
The cam range of 2200-6000.....Is that a published figure or an estimate from the engine builder? I had that cam in a stock stroke 440 and while it sounded great, it wasn't as strong as I hoped. Regardless, the operating range of a cam is most accurate based on a stock stroke.
Another example is one I'm sure you know: A 383 will be much more radical with that cam than a 440 will. Take it even further with an engine close to 500 cubic inches. The added inches mean the power range moves lower in the rpm scale. The cam may have a power range lower than you think.
In 2013, I sent my specs to a guy that tried to help me pick a better ignition setup. At the time, I had a Lunati solid cam that had a published rpm range of 4700-7400. They based their numbers on a 383-440 engine but even then, this engine of mine was feeling strong under 3000 rpms. The guy criticized me on a few things including my selection of converter, thinking it was too tight. This was when I had the loose 3000 stall converter. Beware...there is a lot of fake experts out there looking to sell you something. I ignored that guy's advice and followed my own instincts.
 
That Lunati cam was a great performer but the rough idle was a little hard to live with for the driving that I like to do.
 
Question:
The cam range of 2200-6000.....Is that a published figure or an estimate from the engine builder? I had that cam in a stock stroke 440 and while it sounded great, it wasn't as strong as I hoped. Regardless, the operating range of a cam is most accurate based on a stock stroke.
Another example is one I'm sure you know: A 383 will be much more radical with that cam than a 440 will. Take it even further with an engine close to 500 cubic inches. The added inches mean the power range moves lower in the rpm scale. The cam may have a power range lower than you think.
In 2013, I sent my specs to a guy that tried to help me pick a better ignition setup. At the time, I had a Lunati solid cam that had a published rpm range of 4700-7400. They based their numbers on a 383-440 engine but even then, this engine of mine was feeling strong under 3000 rpms. The guy criticized me on a few things including my selection of converter, thinking it was too tight. This was when I had the loose 3000 stall converter. Beware...there is a lot of fake experts out there looking to sell you something. I ignored that guy's advice and followed my own instincts.

Thanks, I got that info from Mancini's ad for the cam:
https://www.manciniracing.com/cahy28addu2.html
so i guess they cut'n'pasted it from Mopar Performance.
It's a lot milder a cam than we were expecting but as our priority was to be able to run well with traffic and power brakes, we were happy to go with their (Koffel's - there, i've said it now!) choice. Our (my brother & I) only reservation was that it's an old cam design and we were expecting them to go with something newer. I might go back to Koffel and ask where they think this cam starts to make power in this engine...
 
Whats being missed here is this. If it stalls to 3500, that is at max input torque. When driving down the road the torque input is MUCH lower. Therefore thee stall/slip is also much lower. The shift firmness being absorbed is normal. My full race trans you don't even feel the shift. Where the slip will be felt most is low speed in high gear. If its in 3rd to early, leg it out in 2nd. My bet is it should be fine. Heck a stock 340/383 HP/ Hemi converter behind that much torque would probably go close to 2700-2800.
Doug
 
A PS to all the above, we do have 1.6 ratio rockers so the lift is a bit higher than the advertised .484 - 0.516 by my calcs
 
Do you know what stall yours has Mike, and is it mainly strip or street driven? If you dont mind me asking... :D
My Dynamic converter stalls around 4,000. Street driven (I haven't been to a strip in 10 years, 11.64/114). That ET was before a dyno tune that picked up 50 HP (secondary carb jetting). I am using the cam Hughes recommended: HUG STL6064BS3-8
BB SLD FLAT TAPPET CAM 260/264 -108ºLSA. I am very happy with my overall performance. I like it rude and crude!
Mike
 
Had the same problem on my 505. Converter was of an unknown make. when you drove the car, it just went to 3000rpm and stayed there,
you did not even noticed that it shifted from 1st to 2nd and to 3th. Was not nice to drive. Contacted John Cope Transmissions, gave him my specs, and PTC made a really nice 9.5 inch convertor with a advertised 3500 stall speed. . Now, when i brake stall it, it revs to 4000 rpm and the tires don't want to brake loose, yet, when i drive of normally, now i can feel it shift from 1st to 2nd and to 3th. Its only when you accelerate more quickly, you can feel that the converter is more loose.
But not even close to what it was before. Price was 700 dollars delivered to Belgium. I can highly recommend to contact John Cope for your converter.
 
I’ve been down this road too with my street driven mild 451. I had read good things about Dynamic and they sold me a 9” converter with a 3600 stall. My car ran like crap with that thing. Go with PTC. I now have an 11” PTC with 2200-2400 stall and it is perfect. I could probably even tolerate up to 2800 but the main thing is I don’t know of many cars seeing mostly street duty where a 9” converter is doing them any favors. 11” is the way to go and figure out stall next. Most converter companies seem to steer you to go too high. PTC is top notch quality and customer service.
 
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