Another Wire Question?????

[vanrj1]

I have the 3 wires from my "Ready Run MSD Distributor" connected per instructions (Orange Red and Ground). It shows a "red' wire going to ign keyed. The wire harness I have has wiring for electronic ign which I don't need with this ready run Dist.
So I have these wires available to connect to the coil. A blue one and the 2 in the first pic that would connect to the ECU if I had one,???

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I would remove the wiring for the chrysler electronic ignition. All you need is to hook it up like the instructions show. Not really sure what your question is.

 

[vanrj1]

I would remove the wiring for the chrysler electronic ignition. All you need is to hook it up like the instructions show. Not really sure what your question is.

The instructions say to run a red wire to Ign keyed, I want to know if the Blue or black/yellow will work since they both have the round connector. They both go back to the bulkhead plug. I would guess the blue but not sure.

 

[440roadrunner]

If you don't mind the extra wiring, I would just tie it up. The rubber connector is for the Mopar breakerless dist, the eyelet is coil NEG, both unused, both dead end at the ECU connector.

What you need at the ballast for your replacement system is dark blue (ignition run, or switched ignition) and brown, which is the start/ bypass circuit. You can identify both with a light or meter

Unhook the ballast from those connectors. Only one will "show a light" with the key in "run" and the brown should show a light with the key held in "crank."

Jumper both of those together and wire them to the red power wire for your ignition.

Probably a simpler way to connect it is to connect the red igntion wire to your factory eyelet connector which is dark blue---the coil POS wire. Then jumper across the ballast resistor connector.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

The instructions say to run a red wire to Ign keyed, I want to know if the Blue or black/yellow will work since they both have the round connector. They both go back to the bulkhead plug. I would guess the blue but not sure.

You will need a test light to see if there is power on that wire with the key in the start and run positions. I doubt that wire has 12 volts in both positions.

 

[440roadrunner]

On most Mopars the "ignition run" goes dead during crank. That's why you need the bypass wire, usually brown, tied to the blue if you remove the resistor

 

[vanrj1]

1. If you don't mind the extra wiring, I would just tie it up. The rubber connector is for the Mopar breakerless dist, the eyelet is coil NEG, both unused, both dead end at the ECU connector.

2. What you need at the ballast for your replacement system is dark blue (ignition run, or switched ignition) and brown, which is the start/ bypass circuit. You can identify both with a light or meter

3. Unhook the ballast from those connectors. Only one will "show a light" with the key in "run" and the brown should show a light with the key held in "crank."



4. Jumper both of those together and wire them to the red power wire for your ignition.

5. Probably a simpler way to connect it is to connect the red igntion wire to your factory eyelet connector which is dark blue---the coil POS wire. Then jumper across the ballast resistor connector.

1. Ok, I will tie those out of the way for now.

2. Those are both there connected to the resistor in the 1st pic I believe.

3. OK

4. So with this system I don't need the resistor? I thought I read that somewhere else.

5. I think that would be the blue wire in the second pic? When you say "jumper across" do you mean remove resistor and directly connect the blue and brown wires as though the resistor was never there?

I am assuming the red wire from the key to the coil needs to be hot during crank and run as it doesn't say otherwise?

Sorry for the questions, I just don't want to burn anything up And I can't really understand wiring diagrams with more than a few wires on them. lol

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Yes, there need not be a ballast resistor. And yes, power needs to be present during cranking and running. You can use that wire if it has power during both events. If it does not, then splice it to the 2 wires that were at the ballast resistor like vanrj1 pointed out. Dont try and think about this too hard. You dont really need to splice the power wires if you dont want to. They can all meet at the coil positive terminal. Run the wire from the distributor to the coil. Run the wire with key in run position power and run the wire with key in crank position power.

 

[vanrj1]

Ok, Made some progress today, I determined the blue wire has power during run and crank, got my shift and park cable installed and NSS installed. plugged in my console and dash wiring, hooked up my battery and the console lights came on. Then turned the key and the engine cranked over,:hello2::headbang::hello2::headbang::angel11:
Now I need to install my gas tank and fuel line, radiator hoses and she is ready to start. Can't wait. I might be taking her to Monster Mopars!!

 

[vanrj1]

The blue wire worked and seems like the rest needed to run are right also. Ran it just for a few seconds. It was broke in on dyno so that part is done to. waiting for my radiator and brakes...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaWlYrRg1bA&feature=plcp

 

[Hemirunner]

Ok, Made some progress today, I determined the blue wire has power during run and crank,

Yes, but was it at least 12v?? Unless you bypassed the ballast resistor it's less than that. Anything MSD makes needs at least 12v.... 14 is usually better!

 

[vanrj1]

Yes, but was it at least 12v?? Unless you bypassed the ballast resistor it's less than that. Anything MSD makes needs at least 12v.... 14 is usually better!

Oh, I will check that......Thanks Much!!