Anyone use a Ron Francis harness?

[dodgedifferent2]

I used Ron Francis Access 24-7. I found it a better suited than the express

 

[451Mopar]

The first photo shows wires going through bulkhead connector, but that was for determine length. Wires were cut to length for bulkhead and the Packarf 56 connectors crimped onto the wires and put into bulkhead.

In the lower bulkhead harness, the Headlight, Fans, and horn all goto a fused relay block.

 

[PeteyDaMan]

Figured I'd chime in as I just used an American Autowire harness to rewire my 71. They make a 71-71 specific harness with a new modern fuse box and 2 bulkhead connectors. I did have to replace a lot of stock connectors for the wiper motor, ignition, turn signals, etc. It came with a new headlight and high beam switches. All wires are labeled with provisions for electric fans, fuel pump, A/C (you will need the optional A/C sub-harness if using the stock A/C), etc. The only part of the original harness I had to use was the taillights. It also comes with a lot of new light connectors for headlights, markers and running lights.
I'll take a few pics of the install and post them.

 

[451Mopar]

On The Ron Francis kit, I did not see any rear bulb sockets included?
Didn't need the because of the didi-lights LED tail light conversion.
I think if you need the rear bulb sockets that it would be easier to start with a correct M&H rear wiring harness.

 

[70chall440]

I used Ron Francis Access 24-7. I found it a better suited than the express

Why was that?

 

[70chall440]

On The Ron Francis kit, I did not see any rear bulb sockets included?
Didn't need the because of the didi-lights LED tail light conversion.
I think if you need the rear bulb sockets that it would be easier to start with a correct M&H rear wiring harness.

Thanks for all of the information. I do not need the rear sockets because I have the originals I can reuse. I have no interest in using a stock/factory harness at all. I am looking to have the fuse panel drop down so that it can be worked with rather than have to crawl under the dash to change or check a fuse. I think the RF express fuse box is too big to try and put into the glove box but if I hinge it so I can rotate it down that might work, or I might build a dash extension that goes down to the floor (like a mini console) that would allow me to house the fuse panel along with some other stuff such as a fuel pressure gauge, AFR gauge, etc. I am not concerned with stock appearance or anything like that.

I started this thread more because I am interested to understand the products as well as the company. They talk a lot about having started out doing wiring on 60's Mopars but their catalog doesn't really reflect a lot of Mopar, has a lot about GM and Ford though as usual.

I have looked at every harness I can find, I have used EZ wire and Kwik Wire harnesses in the past which were ok although they are remade GM systems. I am looking for a "better" system that provides versatility, good quality and I would prefer a company that knows Mopars not that Mopars are all that different from any other brand but as we all know they do have some uniqueness.

 

[dodgedifferent2]

Easier to install and less fail points with terminals.

Why was that?

 

[64 Sportfury]

I installled a RF wiring kit in my 1949 Dodge B1B Panel Truck some years ago. It had the original drive train and 6 volt system. I swapped in a 340, electronic ignition, 518 trans and iditit tilt steering. I told RF what I had and they customized the kit to my application. I since sold the truck. When I got my 1964 Sport Fury and swapped in the new drivetrain, i purchased another custom RF kit for future use. I have not used the kit as the factory wiring in my Sport Fury is in great shape. I would use his kit again. I have a Painless in my 1940 Ford Pickup, that is sufficient, but doesn't compare. This is simply my experience.

 

[70chall440]

I installled a RF wiring kit in my 1949 Dodge B1B Panel Truck some years ago. It had the original drive train and 6 volt system. I swapped in a 340, electronic ignition, 518 trans and iditit tilt steering. I told RF what I had and they customized the kit to my application. I since sold the truck. When I got my 1964 Sport Fury and swapped in the new drivetrain, i purchased another custom RF kit for future use. I have not used the kit as the factory wiring in my Sport Fury is in great shape. I would use his kit again. I have a Painless in my 1940 Ford Pickup, that is sufficient, but doesn't compare. This is simply my experience.

Thanks, that is helpful.

 

[64fury74charger]

I spent considerable time looking at aftermarket wiring for my 74 Charger and finally decided to just build my own as I have addressed most electrical issues and most of the supplies are relatively inexpensive on Amazon. Solder and heat shrink are your best friends along with a decent heat gun.

I am not concerned with looking factory or anything other than making sure that the end result works properly and is reliable.
This is just my experience and opinion and that’s all.
Most aftermarket wiring is likely to have sections that are not needed or used for something anyway. I have one fuse box under the hood where the battery used to be. Real handy access if needed.

 

[69plywgn]

It's been about five years, but I used the Ron Francis Mopar Retro Series (WR-95?) to completely rewire my '62 Suburban. The kit has a modern-day fuse panel and provisions for additional equipment. It had an adequate number of circuits for my vehicle (no factory options).

The customer service was good, the instructions were fairly straight forward, but I needed a magnifying glass to read their wiring diagram. I also had a '62 FSM and a color wiring diagram from Classic Car Wiring and kept the old harness until the job was complete. Crimp, solder, heat shrink, repeat.

As part of the process, I eliminated the bulkhead connector and ammeter and added a voltmeter, solid state voltage regulator and voltage limiter. No issues so far.

 

[70chall440]

I ordered one of their express kits, so we will see.

 

[TAZZ]

Yeah I have read all of that, I have their catalog and I am talking to Ron Francis via email. I am asking for any comments from someone who has actually used one.

If by Ron Francis you mean THE Ron Francis, he no longer owns Ron Francis Wiring. "He still answers emails but he is no longer the owner and hasn't been here for the last 15 years or so." Quote from an e-mail I got from customer service. Don't have one of their harnesses. It's between them and American Automotive.

 

[70chall440]

I received the kit, its ok but I have to admit I am not overly excited about it. I will probably use it but its going to take some work.

 

[451Mopar]

I received the kit, its ok but I have to admit I am not overly excited about it. I will probably use it but its going to take some work.

Which kit? Pictures?
One nice thing is all the wires have the circuit printed on them, but the wire color codes are like a generic GM?

 

[Crackedback]

Tone the wires if you can to make sure they are headed to the and from proper locations. Some kits have had issues with wires being in the wrong origination spots.

 

[Runner 68]

I received the kit, its ok but I have to admit I am not overly excited about it. I will probably use it but its going to take some work.

In the same boat. Eager to see what you think.
My short list right now is either the American Autowire 510634 kit or the Painless 10127 kit. Any input on these two from you wiring gurus will be helpful as always.
Let us know what you think as you move forward with the RF kit 70Chall.

 

[70chall440]

I went with the RF express kit bc I liked how the wires terminated at the fuse box and I still like this aspect. However, a couple of things I am not overly impressed with are;

1. The kit comes with a brand new GM style headlight switch which is all cool and would probably be good on a street rod but I have no intentions on using it on my Charger as it does not look right. On the upside, for a 71 charger (and perhaps newer) the actual switch looks a lot like a GM switch so it might be just a matter of switching the stem (I just got a switch and have not looked at them side by side yet). Worst case is that I will have to rewire the harness part to fit the stock switch or some other type of adaption. I see that American Autowire also supplies a very similar switch but they provide instructions on how to adapt your stock stem (the part you pull on) to the new switch.

2. The RF kit uses normal parts store crimp on insulated terminals (you know the blue ones) which for some might be ok but for over $500 I would have liked to see at least crimped and heat shrunk terminals. Personally I crimp, solder and heat shrink my terminals but I know some don't like soldering (yes I know the argument). So this is something I will have to correct.

3. RF talks a lot of smack about "knowing" Mopar and this is supposed to be a "Mopar" specific kit but I am not seeing anything in it that appears that way (perhaps I am not looking hard enough). The column harness/connections appear to be typical GM stuff as does pretty much everything else. If I wanted a GM harness I could have bought one from anyone as most are that way.

In retrospect I think that the American AW harness is a better harness but it is almost double the price ($530 v $900), so I guess it should be better. It just depends on what you want, your skill level and what you want the end result to be. I will be using a BH fitting and running the wires from the box to the BH fitting and then using separate harnesses like stock (but modified for my application).

 

[70chall440]

Which kit? Pictures?
One nice thing is all the wires have the circuit printed on them, but the wire color codes are like a generic GM?

I got the express kit which is still in the box, I have not checked the wire colors and to be honest am not overly concerned about that since each wire is labeled.

 

[PeteyDaMan]

As I mentioned before, The American Autowire kit was complete, professional terminal ends (You need a good crimper. AA sells them too). I had no issues with wires being labeled wrong or run to the wrong place. More than enough circuits for my needs plus provisions for electric fans, fuel pump, windows, stereo, courtesy lighting, fog/driving lights, etc. It came with a new headlight switch, stem and knob and high/low beam switch. The instructions were spot on.

The only thing the kit did not come with was the tail light harness as the tail light bulbs are swedged into the housings so they cannot be easily replaced and the A/C sub harness, if you have A/C.