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Anyone using Nitrous?

67 B-body

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I built the lower end to handle N2O, but have never really messed with the stuff other than a quick try on my 69RR about 15 years ago. It was a setup for another mild 440, so I had no thoughts in it, and it had NO safety built into it. It was a single switch and push button to fire it!
Lets see pics too....
 
So you want to run Smack, Juice, Drugs, Spray, Laughing gas...Humm.... Sorry no photos at this time but, how fast do you want to go ?, do you have quality head gaskets with stainless fire/O rings ?, is your bottom end bullet proof ?, Do you have forged pistons ?, do you have a good ring seal/leak down ?, do you have sufficient block breathing/ventilation ?, do you have stock type rods or aftermarket H-beams or Aluminum rods ?, {stock type rods & cast or hyper pistons are a week link, you can still use them just not as much added juice}, how much power do you want to add= 50hp, 100hp, 250hp, 500hp ?, what kind of system do want to run ?, something simple like a spray bars plumbed into the Manifold ?, a Fogger kit, installed at the base of the intake runners with nozzles pointing at the top of the port/bowl & intake valve ?, a direct injection down nozzles kit in the combustion chamber ?, a basic under carburetor plate kit ? {probably the easiest}, a sneaky-pete type little baby shot ?, a dry kit ?... Some basics are a stand alone dedicated fuel system for the N20, capable of maintaining 7psi constant free flowing, the gallon per/hr rate {70gph minimum plate kit-250gph fogger} will be dictated buy how big & how many kits to be used, with a bypass style regulator with a fuel line back to the fuel cell/tank with enough fuel capacity to handle the extra fuel you plan on adding, completely separate from your carburetor's fuel system {you can use the same tank or cell just need to add the 2) inlet & return bungs/fittings}, there are some really good N20 programers out now, that will help with the application of when & were your N20 kit {or kits} come in & at what % of flow at a specific time or rpm, the bottle should be mounted so the pick-up is at the bottom of the bottle with the filler nozzle pointing down & the bottle going North/south front to back with the valve at the front for best results, use at a minimum high pressure Teflon lined braided steel or hard lines that can handle 1500psi minimum, high flow A/N fittings, a N20 bottle blanket will also help to stabilize the bottle pressure/temp. to make the 1st & last run more consistent, depending on how big of a bottle 2lb, 5lb, 10lb, etc. how much HP used in what kit & what style of kit you choose to use, will dictate how many passes you can get out of a bottle, a quality hot ignition system, a quality charging system, are also must haves... The N20 system is basically a direct short when activated the solenoids, wire the whole system thru 30-40amp Boshe type or equal relays is mandatory in my opinion, it will help with the spikes in the electrical & charging system for sure, a dedicated extra battery for the N20 system is also a great idea, always have an arming/override switch just in case for run away stuff.... I have run 1 kit & as many as 3 or 4 kits at a time & any combination & application going down the track, leave on the spray bars hit the plate at 60ft then the fogger at 330ft then the down nozzles at 660ft... I depends which kit was used of the kits mentioned depending on what combo it was on & how fast I wanted to go... If you follow the basic main outline I showed here you can have pretty trouble free N20 experience, if you go cheapo & just throw a kit on with out doing the proper outlined basics you chance grenading you engine combo... It's been almost 10 years now since I ran N20 competitively, but the basics are still the same, I ended up going to Blow Injected Methanol at the end & went away from the N20 type combos/set-up that we ran for 20 or so years... Good luck happy Moparing
 
Street car? 125 hp shot? Get a good fuel pressure gauge that you can read from the driver's seat. Verify that you have at least 5 psi at wide open throttle. Verify your ignition timing isn't overly advanced. (35 degree total is plenty) Never activate unless you are wide open throttle. In a nutshell, fix all your weak area's before you install and use nitrous. I have ran it for years with no problems.
 
well, with 4340 H-Beam rods, steel crank, forged pistons, and a stud girdle on the mains, I would say that end is covered with the whole assy being balanced. The head gaskets are Fel-Pro, standard PermaTorque type with the steel fire ring at .040" compressed thickness. I have always had good luck with them, and so far they're holding up on this build.The rings are file fit "Hastings Racing Rings"... Good stuff there! The compression comes out to be somewhere around 13.5:1 by the numbers....
I was thinking of 200hp shot "I think thats 6lbs flow"....... Nothing more than that though! I would like to do it all the most economical way of course, so a plate type setup under the carb is most likely the way I'll be going.... The direct into the intake runners is way to pricey for me for what I'm doing!!!
I always use relays for ALL installed options on my car!!!! I have a good post in the electrical threads called "safe wiring" this is how I protect things the right way!
Do you leave on the nitrous? I thought I read you have to get some RPM first before hitting it...??? This is the stuff I'm unsure on.... Also, how much safety do you build into a system and still keep a decent budget??? Fuel pressure safety switches? roll over switches? Arming switch with throttle WOT switch and a push button for engaging???
Do you run a seperate fuel line for a plate type setup with 200hp? how much fuel does it take extra for 200hp? Do you need a timing retard box hooked up to the Mallory unilite? Lots of questions.... LOL!
 
Forged pistons don't always have a thick enough dome,this is a 12.5:1 forged piston.It was not too lean but the cylinder pressure did this:angryfire:
 

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Maybe I can help some

well, with 4340 H-Beam rods, steel crank, forged pistons, and a stud girdle on the mains, I would say that end is covered with the whole assy being balanced. The head gaskets are Fel-Pro, standard PermaTorque type with the steel fire ring at .040" compressed thickness. I have always had good luck with them, and so far they're holding up on this build.The rings are file fit "Hastings Racing Rings"... Good stuff there! The compression comes out to be somewhere around 13.5:1 by the numbers....
I was thinking of 200hp shot "I think thats 6lbs flow"....... Nothing more than that though! I would like to do it all the most economical way of course, so a plate type setup under the carb is most likely the way I'll be going.... The direct into the intake runners is way to pricey for me for what I'm doing!!!
I always use relays for ALL installed options on my car!!!! I have a good post in the electrical threads called "safe wiring" this is how I protect things the right way!
Do you leave on the nitrous? I thought I read you have to get some RPM first before hitting it...??? This is the stuff I'm unsure on.... Also, how much safety do you build into a system and still keep a decent budget??? Fuel pressure safety switches? roll over switches? Arming switch with throttle WOT switch and a push button for engaging???
Do you run a seperate fuel line for a plate type setup with 200hp? how much fuel does it take extra for 200hp? Do you need a timing retard box hooked up to the Mallory unilite? Lots of questions.... LOL!

N20 is a trial & error experiment at best, NO two systems will be exactly the same, just like NO two engines are exactly the same, you need to figure out "what you need for your combo/system" not what someone else runs... With a plate kit your going to be much safer than with a fogger kit or multiple kits... Leave on N20 ? Sometimes, depending on track conditions, usually when the line lock is released or after the trans-brake is released if it's an auto, with a smaller kit though... For a 200hp plate kit a 5-7psi flowing @ 75gpm-100gph rate pump to be on the safer side, should do the job adequately a wide open throttle safety switch is a good idea, "Hobbs pressure switches" can be a good safety tool also, I didn't use them on my N20 systems, but did use them on my engines fuel system, you don't want the kit shutting off & then coming back on when the pressure is back up, that is a ABSOLUTE NO NO & extremely unsafe... Yes by all means you should run a completely separate fuel pump, bypass regulator & lines with any N20 kit {if not your inviting trouble just to save a few bucks}... I would use a retard box for any N20 application if your worried about your tune or just want to be safe {it's cheaper than gaskets, valves, pistons & rings or even heads in the long run} you should set it up on the fat side to start with & creap down on the fuel pressure until your optimum, don't start out lean it will hurt parts, plugs are cheap in comparison... You should retard the ignition 2*-4*minimum for every 100hp or so, or at specific points in the run, you need to find out what your exact system is doing under track conditions... You may need to back it down or retard the ignition more at specific points on the track, maybe as high as 8* depending on ignition type, cubic inches, fuel type heavy or light fuels etc, 91-93 oct. pump gas burns much quicker so more retard with pump gas than for instance 112-116 race gas or what ever, fuel pressures on free fuel flow rates going down the track, compression ratios, with higher compression ratios it better be right or you will burn off plug tips then next would be piston tops, ring lands, combustion chamber, valve or head-gasket or something else... N20 bottle pressures make a big difference a warm partially full 1200psi bottle will hit much harder than a cold full 900psi bottle pressure condition, constant temperature is important, for consistent tuning... Also if the track conditions aren't favorable, if your not able to hook at the line "with out" N20 don't try to use a launch "with" N20... The relative air density will dictate what jetting & what fuel pressure on the fuel side of the kit, the N20 needs to be tuned, just like it is on carburetors, unless you use a N20 flow programer that will handle most all of that stuff... You need to know what your fuel system is doing all the way down the track, you may have 7psi at idle but whats it when your under acceleration, they will usually drop of some then come back up, you probably don't want to drop below 5psi ever... I'm not trying to scare you just warn you N20 can be fun & a cheap way to make HP/TQ if it's ued correctly if not it can be a very expensive lesson...
 
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