Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...

[eldubb440]

I always attribute a minor spark when connecting a battery, to radio memory or clock

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

I think that I found it. The stereo constant power wire is on the unfused side of the fuse panel. This is why pulling the fuses didn’t help and the issue was narrowed down to the one unfused wire on the relay. Now I need to reroute a couple of terminals since in error, I have a few things attached to the wrong side of the fuses.
Heck yeah!
The battery itself already loses charge but the draw of constant power only sped it up.
I would not have looked this deep if not for Randy, 1 Wild R/T.
Thanks!

Big shout out to 1 Wild R/T and the others helping Kern. When this is figured out o think a “sticky” is in order to help debug electrical issues but that’s me

 

[GTXDAN]

Nice job KD. Sometimes it helps to make a written list of everything you need to check when something like this happens so you can check things off. Especially when it takes days sometimes to get around to everything. I've also found that if you can run a wire to the battery from where you are working to hook your test light to, then you don't have to make 100 trips to look at the light every time you disconnect/connect something. As they say patience is a virtue when it comes to this stuff.

 

[Kern Dog]

All of the trunk mounted battery stuff is out and the return to an engine bay battery location is almost complete.
The battery box, solenoid, 1/0 positive cable, 4 ga full length ground cable, trigger wire and power wire are out. When added together, the whole trunk mounted battery setup weighs 18 1/2 lbs.
The traditional engine bay setup uses a thin gauge battery tray and support bracket. This was sandblasted, primed and painted....

I cut down a flor mat to use as a pad.

I'm going to reuse the trunk mounted battery cables but shorten them. It looks like the parts used to mount the battery in the stock location weigh about 4 1/2 lbs total. This means that when you look at the 18 1/2 lbs that the trunk mount stuff is put against the 4 1/2 lbs for the stock location, moving the battery to the trunk adds about 14 lbs.
When I replace the battery, I'm strongly considering this Lithium battery:

FBBO member 68SportSatellite has one in his Plymouth...

It weighs 7 lbs. My battery weighs 40 1/2. There is 33 1/2 lbs of weight to lose right there while getting much faster cranking speed when starting. 33 1/2 plus 14 means 47 lbs off the car by switching to a lightweight battery moved back to the stock location.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

And before the Lithium battery protests start - just to point out what KD has learned - these are the safe Lithium Titanate type, not prone to fire and issues like the Lithium Ion type. I was originally turned onto this exact battery by Mopar Action's Rick E and bought one after also watching a fire safety comparison video on 3 different Lithium battery types. This battery is legit and works great.

 

[Kern Dog]

And before the Lithium battery protests start

- just to point out what KD has learned - these are the safe Lithium Titanate type, not prone to fire and issues like the Lithium Ion type.

I was originally turned onto this exact battery by Mopar Action's Rick E and bought one after also watching a fire safety comparison video on 3 different Lithium battery types. This battery is legit and works great.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

All of the trunk mounted battery stuff is out and the return to an engine bay battery location is almost complete.
The battery box, solenoid, 1/0 positive cable, 4 ga full length ground cable, trigger wire and power wire are out. When added together, the whole trunk mounted battery setup weighs 18 1/2 lbs.
The traditional engine bay setup uses a thin gauge battery tray and support bracket. This was sandblasted, primed and painted....

View attachment 1815690

I cut down a flor mat to use as a pad.

View attachment 1815691

View attachment 1815693

I'm going to reuse the trunk mounted battery cables but shorten them. It looks like the parts used to mount the battery in the stock location weigh about 4 1/2 lbs total. This means that when you look at the 18 1/2 lbs that the trunk mount stuff is put against the 4 1/2 lbs for the stock location, moving the battery to the trunk adds about 14 lbs.
When I replace the battery, I'm strongly considering this Lithium battery:



View attachment 1815695

FBBO member 68SportSatellite has one in his Plymouth...

View attachment 1815696

It weighs 7 lbs. My battery weighs 40 1/2. There is 33 1/2 lbs of weight to lose right there while getting much faster cranking speed when starting. 33 1/2 plus 14 means 47 lbs off the car by switching to a lightweight battery moved back to the stock location.

Do they sell a group 27 equivalent?

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

But doesn’t the weight of the battery over the axle help traction?

 

[Kern Dog]

Do they sell a group 27 equivalent?

There are several variations of size and capacity.

But doesn’t the weight of the battery over the axle help traction?

I actually like peeling out!
Yeah, you are right though. There is some truth to the more traction theory.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

There are several variations of size and capacity.



View attachment 1816068

I actually like peeling out!
Yeah, you are right though. There is some truth to the more traction theory.

Of course, silly me, who doesn’t like a peel out !

All joking aside, or not I don’t care, as nice as the weight reduction is I was just curious what your thoughts were on the traction aspect, especially factoring in is the car for fun or trying to be the fastest guy on the street (which that statement probably opens a whole new can of worms )

 

[Kern Dog]

Here is another weird one:
This battery....I have a small charging unit that I use on all the car batteries here. It has a red light if it senses trouble, a yellow light to indicate that it is charging and a green light to let me know that it is done charging.
This battery loses voltage on it's own so I've had to charge it often. Sometimes I go to check on it and the green light is on so I test it and it is NOT at 12.6 and above, often times it stops charging at 12.4, 12.5.
Today I went out back and after being on the charger all night, it only tested to 12.45 or so, so I pulled the plug, waited a moment, then powered it up again and it started charging. It got up to maybe 12.55 and stopped again.
I did some other things and tried to start the car. I had no spark but within 30 seconds of cranking the starter spun slower and slower. The battery tested at 12.10. Yeah, it dropped almost half a volt in 30 seconds. I put the charging unit back on it and within a half hour, it was back up to the highest number of the day...12.6 something. I figure if battery voltage can swing so much in such a short time, something isn't right.

 

[GTXDAN]

I had a battery tender on the wife's Lincoln and it started showing a yellow light all the time meaning it was charging constantly. Never turned green and voltage would only get to 12.4. I sent email to battery tender company asking what voltage it should go to, to turn the light green. He said at least 12.6. He asked what size Tender I was using. I had 1.5 Amp on it. He said I needed at least 4 Amp for a car battery. I put 4 Amp on and it charged it up in just a few hours and now turns green and voltage is at least 12.6 all the time. I thought battery was dieing when it was actually the battery Tender. I had been using it for probably 3 years.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

I had a battery tender on the wife's Lincoln and it started showing a yellow light all the time meaning it was charging constantly. Never turned green and voltage would only get to 12.4. I sent email to battery tender company asking what voltage it should go to, to turn the light green. He said at least 12.6. He asked what size Tender I was using. I had 1.5 Amp on it. He said I needed at least 4 Amp for a car battery. I put 4 Amp on and it charged it up in just a few hours and now turns green and voltage is at least 12.6 all the time. I thought battery was dieing when it was actually the battery Tender. I had been using it for probably 3 years

I was in the same boat. Had a tender for the rider mower so in the winter I used it for the cars and no go. Called them and said to small and recommended 4 amp and did and issues gone

 

[Bee1971]

Anyone hang out on the A Body Forum in the Ignition System

Good info , however

There was a simple ignition coil question on heat that turned into WWIII

Tried answering some of the O.P. s questions however

Anyways the thread got locked , still shaking my head

Carry on

 

[toolmanmike]

Anyone hang out on the A Body Forum in the Ignition System

Good info , however

There was a simple ignition coil question on heat that turned into WWIII

Tried answering some of the O.P. s questions however

Anyways the thread got locked , still shaking my head

Carry on

It was either close the thread or ban most of the posters. (which I should have done) The trouble started halfway through the first page and then the testosterone took over. I don't think the op's simple question even got answered.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Anyone hang out on the A Body Forum in the Ignition System

Good info , however

There was a simple ignition coil question on heat that turned into WWIII

Tried answering some of the O.P. s questions however

Anyways the thread got locked , still shaking my head

Carry on

“A” bodyitis lol

 

[Bee1971]

It was either close the thread or ban most of the posters. (which I should have done) The trouble started halfway through the first page and then the testosterone took over. I don't think the op's simple question even got answered.

I kind of tried answering - No one even noticed between all the testosterone LOL

 

[toolmanmike]

I kind of tried answering - No one even noticed between all the testosterone LOL

I see Halifaxhops posted only once. Better to not get in the middle of it.