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Assumed all was good on an engine I bought - it bit me in the @$$!

When I purchased my RR it came with the original engine which had been gone through by a reputable shop (Rettig Bros). The engine was on a stand and never installed in the car. Like you I got a good deal so I figured it was worth the risk. Since it was on a stand I went ahead and pulled the oil pan, valve covers, timing cover, ect. Pretty much everything short of the heads and intake. I then ran a bore scope down into the cylinders and checked each one. Everything looked good.........once the engine was installed and I fired it up for the first time I was still nervous as a whore in church since I didn't build it myself. Fortunately it all turned out well for me. Sorry to hear about your problem, good luck with the rebuild!
 
Thanks for all the support. I wouldn't say I got ripped off, I bought a non running racecar project for a good price and there were no guarantees given. I just should never have trusted that someone that I was not familiar with had put the engine together correctly, especially since I didn't hear it run.

I will actually be further ahead after I re-assemble it correctly with better parts. I will be taking apart and inspecting the trans and Dana 60 before they are run!
This is a very positive and can do attitude.
Wishing the best outcome to you.
 
My buddy also bought a stalled race car project. He’s been going through and un-fuckering a lot of stuff. It too came with a 440 built to unknown specs, so of course he dove into that. He was lucky tho, it was all assembled correctly and turned out to be the only part of the car that did not need attention.
 
I'm throwing in the towel on this engine but wanted to share a couple more pics of this poor thing. At this point all I can do is laugh.
The tops of the cylinders were ground on, I guess for valve clearance, but on the lower side of the cylinders. At least that matches the upside down pistons. Rod side clearance is huge, over .035 on rods 7/8 and 3/4. The sides of the rods were ground on possibly for balance? .020 of endplay on the crank. I hear Taps playing.

440j3.JPG
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The bore notches are above the ring so no big deal as long as a head gasket does not overhang it, the side play on those rods is pretty normal, never will be .017. The end play I cannot explain without seeing the bearing or trying a new one. The one thing I can't tell is if the chamfer on the side of the rods is facing out towards where a crank fillet would be.
 
The bore notches are above the ring so no big deal as long as a head gasket does not overhang it, the side play on those rods is pretty normal, never will be .017. The end play I cannot explain without seeing the bearing or trying a new one. The one thing I can't tell is if the chamfer on the side of the rods is facing out towards where a crank fillet would be.

There's just too many "maybes" for me to want to take the time to mess with it. Heck, if someone feels like a nice drive to Central Oregon, I'll load it in your rig for free including the Isky 505 cam & lifters that were in it and even buy you a beer/soda/ice tea.
 
If you Google 426 max wedge bore notches the notches are in the correct spot, lower side of the block. 440 marine gaskets have a bigger bore, but those notches look pretty small so I doubt you need them. When you build a 440, or any engine for that matter... the first thing you should do it put both heads on the block, turn it over and scratch the cylinders on the heads, mark the heads left and right, and never unshroud the heads past that. You will see big blocks have a weird shape right where he ground, so no harm. Intake side is way more important than exhaust. I have seen stupid big unshrouding on heads that can't be good for flow. I use a 8519pt felpro mark the block for notches, and the block to mark the heads. I think you can salvage this if the bores have correct clearance.
 
You'll have to run two high volume oil pumps to keep up with the rod spacing!
Jeez, what some people do!
 
Rod side clearance does not determine oil demand, bearing clearance does. The only way side clearance would increase oil demand is if you had a real narrow bearing or a ton of clearance. More side clearance is better than too little.

There are thousands of engines running
030-.050 side clearance with no issues.
 
Back in the day... I had better luck with engines pulled from the junkyard, than “rebuilt” engines.:D
 
Crook County, Prineville to be exact, draw and an X from corner to corner on the Oregon map. Where the lines cross in the middle is us.
Are you from there or did you move there?
Old joke was " what has 100 legs and 2 teeth? A line dance in Prineville
 
Are you from there or did you move there?
Old joke was " what has 100 legs and 2 teeth? A line dance in Prineville

Moved here about 25 years, new answer to that joke would be: A homeless camp in Portland.
 
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I always dread when I sell anything that I hope I didn't screw up. I always never sell anything but when I do, I always second guess myself. Case in point, I sold a 1966 coronet post car with stroker 383 engine (432 now) and I built that engine for myself and spared no expense like all of my builds - I build stuff for me and not for resale and that's why I always take a bath on cost. I sold the car to finance a buy back of a beloved 1963 Savoy that I sold many years ago. I feel a sense of responsibility on anything I do. It's just the way it is and I can't be happy unless my buyer is happy. To be frank, I've NEVER made a profit on anything I've ever sold. I'm always in the red but I prefer it that way over someone thinking that I put one over on them.

Chuck (snook)
 
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