Aurora design stereo install

[trishhritz]

Good day everyone,
I’m working on installing my refurbed radio (upgraded by Bill the Radio Guy with aurora design) and have a couple of questions.
What is the school of thought about wiring two rear speakers. Run new wire down each side of the car or use the original wiring harness? Unfortunately, I think the 72’s only had speaker wired on the drivers side of the car to the left rear speaker.
I have two more wires on the upgraded stereo that I’m not sure where they should be spliced in. I believe the orange one labeled “accessory” needs to be spliced to any accessory wire, but what color would that be under the dash? The blue wire marked “door”, can be spliced into the door switch circuit which is I believe might be yellow under dash. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

From the picture below, can anyone confirm what the purpose of the blue / white strip wire under the dash might be? I’m guessing it’s either for a tach or seat belt warning light but I’m not sure since it wasn’t connected to anything when I pulled the radio.
Please let me know your thoughts.

 

[OMTWF-72SE]

Assuming it has right and left rear speaker wires you should run speaker wires somewhere they don't run alongside power wires. I ran mine down the trans tunnel. I also added an amp in the trunk which meant a new relay powered battery connected wire with the relay turned on by the run connection for the radio. The associated power wire runs thru a stand alone fuse In the engine compartment to the trunk where the amp sits right below the valance tray. By the way, there are 2 speaker sized holes in the rear valance tray but they're only 5x7. That takes a bit of work to fit a 5 or 6" round or a limited choice of 5x7 speakers. You may need to drill holes, and for sure the mdf valance interior board needs work. I'd also suggest that while you have the radio out replace the dash speaker with a dual 2" right and left speaker if the stereo has those wires. Otherwise you get mono up front. You could try kickpanel speakers instead or with the mono but you need to make sure the wiring doesnt pull more watts down one channel than it can handle. My iss with them is it takes a lot if work to point kickpanel speakers anywhere towards your head so you lose highs and midranges which are directional. Sorry, im an audiophile with a bad stream of consciousness typing style.

 

[hunt2elk]

Yes, run 2 new speaker wires to the back. I also convert the 4x10 front speaker opening to accept 2 - 3.5" rounds.

 

[haywire 440]

First, I’m not sure why a blue wire would be labeled “door”. I would not think connecting it to the door courtesy light switch yellow wires would achieve anything related to radio use.

Wire color and striping would be best identified by using a FSM, Factory Service Manual. I believe you can download one for your vehicle from a website My Mopar. It’s free I think.

As mentioned 2 new set of wires are needed for the rear speakers. As I personally also have an Aurora System stock radio installed in my ‘68 GTX, the front speakers I used 2 small good sounding speakers together in the 4”x10” spot, I believe that’s the size. With a specially made mounting kit I bought, I found it unusable because of the heater and fan control cables that are located near that speaker. I had to custom make a thinner mounting bracket to hold the 2 speakers. Honestly the 2 speakers upfront sound ok but are too close together.

My conclusion and after re-reading the Aurora Design information I discovered this. This updated design can be programmed to use 1 speaker with 160 watts of power, 2 speakers with 80 watts per speaker, oddly 3 speakers with 60 Watts per speaker or 4 speakers with 40 watts per speaker.

I believe this is correct. If I would do it again I would use the 3 speakers setup, one better/best front speaker. I welcome discussion from other members on this point.

Also you should contact Bill the radio guy for some guidance on some of your questions.

Good luck and happy cruising.

 

[trishhritz]

I know what you mean and I don’t know why Aurora designs would use a blue wire marked “door”. I’m still scratching my head over it. I do have both the 1972 Body Service manual and the Chassis Service Manual, thanks to my hubby. I also have the laminated wiring diagram from Classic Industries. The two do not always line up, so it can be confusing. You are correct that the drivers side door switch is wire with yellow a yellow with a tracer and a black ground. My conclusion is that the blue wire marked “door” on the stereo pigtail goes to a yellow mold under the dash and the orange wire marked “ Accessory”in the pigtail can be plugged into an orange mold. Let me know if I’m right or wrong.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

From the picture below, can anyone confirm what the purpose of the blue / white strip wire under the dash might be? I’m guessing it’s either for a tach or seat belt warning light but I’m not sure since it wasn’t connected to anything when I pulled the radio.
Please let me know your thoughts.

View attachment 1723348

The pictured 20ga dark blue wire connector is for the optional power windows harness. Comes from splice 6, the ignition 1 circuit, power in the ignition switch run position only. Page 8-158 (standard cluster) or 8-160 (rallye cluster) of the '72 FSM.

 

[trishhritz]

I see it! So understandable that it wasn’t in use since my SSP did not have the power window option, but I guess it can be added with that knowledge..
Thank you!

 

[haywire 440]

Here is a link to the wiring diagram. The blue wire doesn’t link to the door light switches according to what I’m seeing.
https://www.tech-retro.com/aurora-design/ewExternalFiles/FMR User Manual 2.8.0.pdf

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Good day everyone,
I’m working on installing my refurbed radio (upgraded by Bill the Radio Guy with aurora design) and have a couple of questions.
What is the school of thought about wiring two rear speakers. Run new wire down each side of the car or use the original wiring harness? Unfortunately, I think the 72’s only had speaker wired on the drivers side of the car to the left rear speaker.
I have two more wires on the upgraded stereo that I’m not sure where they should be spliced in. I believe the orange one labeled “accessory” needs to be spliced to any accessory wire, but what color would that be under the dash? The blue wire marked “door”, can be spliced into the door switch circuit which is I believe might be yellow under dash. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

From the picture below, can anyone confirm what the purpose of the blue / white strip wire under the dash might be? I’m guessing it’s either for a tach or seat belt warning light but I’m not sure since it wasn’t connected to anything when I pulled the radio.
Please let me know your thoughts.

View attachment 1723348

The pictured female bullet connector with yellow/black trace wires is the door pin switch circuit. Originally for the key lamp timer option.

 

[trishhritz]

Thank you all,
Another question. When I removed the old red power and (blue) ground wires which were running thru the Speedo cable grommet. The red was attached directly to the + battery and the ground was attached to the inner fender wall. I don’t believe this was original. Anyway, I would like to connect to the power and ground behind the dash. Can anyone tell me if the red post on the back of the rallye style dash is always hot or is it switched like the dome lamp. I tested this assumption with the doors closed but the I noticed my dome lamp isn’t turning off with the battery connected and the doors closed.

 

[trishhritz]

Assuming it has right and left rear speaker wires you should run speaker wires somewhere they don't run alongside power wires. I ran mine down the trans tunnel. I also added an amp in the trunk which meant a new relay powered battery connected wire with the relay turned on by the run connection for the radio. The associated power wire runs thru a stand alone fuse In the engine compartment to the trunk where the amp sits right below the valance tray. By the way, there are 2 speaker sized holes in the rear valance tray but they're only 5x7. That takes a bit of work to fit a 5 or 6" round or a limited choice of 5x7 speakers. You may need to drill holes, and for sure the mdf valance interior board needs work. I'd also suggest that while you have the radio out replace the dash speaker with a dual 2" right and left speaker if the stereo has those wires. Otherwise you get mono up front. You could try kickpanel speakers instead or with the mono but you need to make sure the wiring doesnt pull more watts down one channel than it can handle. My iss with them is it takes a lot if work to point kickpanel speakers anywhere towards your head so you lose highs and midranges which are directional. Sorry, im an audiophile with a bad stream of consciousness typing style.

thank you for this tip, OMTWF. I just moved the left rear speaker wire from the left side where the original speaker wires are to down the trans tunnel. the old speakers were left by the PO. So, unless they do not work, they are already mounted and will stay there. The front speakers were also converted as you mentioned by a PO, but I want to replace those with the original which is on the way and should arrive today. According to the instructions I received, the Aurora conversion is smart enough to have a three speaker hook-up which is what I intend to do, saving the small speakers for installing the kick panels as you mentioned. But for now, I just want to install this puppy and make sure it is working. I’m not too worried about sound right now - I can change out speakers later if they are not any good. I just do not want to run power and ground through the firewall like the PO had had done.
Trish

 

[trishhritz]

Good day everyone,
Can anyone tell me if this plug has constant power or if it’s switched like the dome light? This mold is center dash beneath the center speaker area of a 1972 Plymouth Satellite SP

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Should be red at that location, constant power. There is a yellow 3-way tap near the radio that is switched (accessory) and an orange one at the far drivers side that is dash illumination voltage. Should be another black 3-way on yellow wires that is switched door ground. Pages 8-160 & 8-161 in the FSM.

 

[trishhritz]

What kind of connectors fit in those red, orange and yellow molds? I purchased bullet connectors, but they are a bit small.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

A slightly larger male bullet connector than is commonly available at the auto parts store. In a pinch, I've spread the seam a bit in the smaller male bullets to get a better fit in the stock sized female bullets.

 

[trishhritz]

Great point!

 

[trishhritz]

OMG
Discovered another oddity in Scarlet Sue. The two rear speakers are mismatched. Shopping on Crutchfield.com……
Sometimes this is harder than it should be.

 

[trishhritz]

Here is a link to the wiring diagram. The blue wire doesn’t link to the door light switches according to what I’m seeing.
https://www.tech-retro.com/aurora-design/ewExternalFiles/FMR User Manual 2.8.0.pdf

My copy was updated….