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B&M Quicksilver Shift Cable

EngineerDoug

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Hello all,

I am installing one of these in my '68 inside a factory console. I've done some research to plan this out, and my one concern is the shift cable. I've heard of folks having problems with the cable melting - primarily due to radiated heat from headers. And yes, I am running a set of TTI headers.

The key consideration seems to be proper routing, and some installations include a heat shield (DEI for example) around the cable. I have also heard some say that the red heavy duty cable is better, but then some suggest it is too stiff to route effectively.

Are the cables offered by B&M the best bet? Or are there more durable cables on the market?

I would appreciate any experience you might have with this issue, especially if you have found a way to route this cable that has proven to work in the long run. Might a longer cable might be better than one that is shorter and more direct? I see that cables are offered in 4, 5, and 8 ft lengths.

Thanks!
 
I don’t have an answer for you, but am considering doing the same for my 69 Bee….. am curious to read any answers you receive!
 
I ran one and ended up going through a couple of cables. I ended up buying green catalytic converter hose to slide over it and then covered that with DEI heat shield. I also used a bracket on the transmission housing to keep it away from the header.
 
I think I use a 6ft red cable iirc. On the 64+ 67.
One of the hard parts is where to drill the hole in the tunnel. On the 67 I ended up drilling right through the trans crossmember at an angle. Which really sucked.
 
There was another guy on here I posted on a while back but never got to taking pictures..not sure if it’s the same for yours, but in my 67 charger with a 727 auto I mounted a quicksilver to the existing shifter linkage. Didn’t use the cable and it sits right in the factory plate. Just bent up a couple brackets. Looks great to me and haven’t had any issues with it

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You run the cable out the right side and under the rear of oil pan.

I have two cars with cables run that way. No issues.
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Here is my 67. I put the shifter where it worked well with seat position, but you'll have to mock it up to work in the factory console slot
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I have one in my Volare console. Ended up using the factory linkage thru the floor. Then cut down a melted cable to about a foot long. Made an adapter to attach the cable to the stock bell crank that comes thru the floor. Just clamped the new adapter piece on and moved it in and out from the pivot until the geometry was correct (P was P, 1st was 1st). Then welded the adapter to the bell crank. Been this way since the late 80's
Doug
 
Wow some great ideas - thanks guys. Got a couple questions on your replies:

DVW - can you elaborate on where the cut down cable fits in your scheme? Did it run from the shifter to the top end of the bell crank (inside passenger compartment)? If so, then you would retain the entire stock mechanism below the floor pan.

BCoh67 - I have seen that setup. I really wanted to make that work, but a close examination of the linkage geometry (in my setup) gave me doubts about proper travel. Maybe I need to do some more headscratching on how to route the linkage rod from the shifter to the top end of the bell crank.

qkcuda - What is green catalytic converter hose? How long have you been running your setup? Big block? Headers?

I do appreciate the ideas. I have been running the factory shifter for some time and am just not comfortable with it. I even went so far as to make up some brass bushings to use at pivot points and take up mechanical slop. Still feels "non-positive" to me, and I am not comfortable shifting between 1-2-D with the car under power.

Once I get this sorted and installed I will add some pictures. Thanks again.
 
This is the catalytic converter hose I used from summit's website. It is just high temperature hose, and possibly overkill, however, I ran that set up in a big block A body for years without melting another cable.

catalytic converter hose.jpg
 
Wow some great ideas - thanks guys.

I do appreciate the ideas. I have been running the factory shifter for some time and am just not comfortable with it. I even went so far as to make up some brass bushings to use at pivot points and take up mechanical slop. Still feels "non-positive" to me, and I am not comfortable shifting between 1-2-D with the car under power.

Take a look at what a couple A-body guys were doing with the original console shifter. I'ma gonna try it later this year. :)

Alter Shift Gate Auto Console Shifter
 
Wow some great ideas - thanks guys. Got a couple questions on your replies:

DVW - can you elaborate on where the cut down cable fits in your scheme? Did it run from the shifter to the top end of the bell crank (inside passenger compartment)? If so, then you would retain the entire stock mechanism below the floor pan.
All stock floor shifter parts below the floor pan including the bell crank. All parts are in the factory location. The stock B&M cable attaches to the Quick Silver shifter in the original manner. The cable was cut long enough to reach the bell crank. The outside of the cable is only attached at the shifter. The inner portion had an end installed similar to the picture. The attachement point at the upper end of the bell crank had to be lengthened so the travel of the shifter matched the trans. Just made the part and clamped it on with vice grips. Kept moving it in and out from the bell crank pivot until it was good. Then welded it to the bell crank. As I remember the shifter is mounted on the stock factory shifter bracket. Still have the car. But its all bolted together.
Doug

cable-end-to-ball-socket-heavy-duty.jpg
 
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