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B&M trans cooler

greenmachine

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b&m 70274 has 29,200 btu's of cooling or absorbtion capacity. The 70268 has 13000 capacity. Nasty 440, 3000 stall. Do I need the 70274 or will the 70268 suffice? Is there a point of too much cooling? Thanks. Erik.
 
With that setup (my opinion)I would use the best cooling unit you can fit...especially if it's gonna see street time.
 
I run the 8.5x11 size with a 3,500 stall and my temp gauge sender is right off the converter and I never see anything above 210-215 degrees. Usually sits around 180 or so. Never had any problems.
 
In a related topic I would like to add with the use of a DPDT switch you can use separate sender and read both engine and transmission temperatures with the same gauge (after market electric of course).
Mike
 
Although my converter is nearly stock, don't know the stall, it has a manual reverse B&M shifter and was a former race car. After conferring with several trans shops about trans cooling, they all said to keep it as cool as you can. So in addition to a dual oil and trans cooler in front of the radiator, I installed a Derale deep trans pan with "turbo" tubes running through it. The pan adds 4 to 5 quarts to system and has a temperature bung and drain plug as well. I Installed a B&M gauge to monitor temps and it stays really cool, all the time. Only registers when in traffic on hot days. See attached pics.
DSCF0166.JPG
HPIM1999.JPG
 
If it gets too cool, your trans will have problems.
 
I heard that too, but how cool? I recall that on the wheel stander cars, (Little Red Wagon and Hemi Under Glass), the auto trans had to come up to a certain temperature to shift properly. I think their situation is a little different from street cars which are bound to produce enough heat to avoid being too cool. If that is a concern, an adjustable mixing or dump valve, like I put on my oil cooler would take care of that.
DSCF0170.JPG
 
Sorry for the delay, I am at work, hee hee. All they are is tubes with a twisted band of metal inside of them that causes the air passing through to spiral. It is supposed to make the cooling (heat transfer) more efficient. Just like a radiator, the fins contact the tube walls extracting more heat. The tubes are completely surrounded by trans fluid. It works quite well. I am sure I've seen something like them used on something else but I don't recall at the moment. I have seen similar deep trans pans with tubes run through them, but without the internal deflection, just straight through. Depending on the vehicle the pan is used in, ground clearance could be an issue. I took that picture from near ground level looking up so it appears to hang lower than it really does. When I see guys with deep oil pans hanging down I wander how often they bottom out ruining everything, especially when the car sits really low to start with.
 
Sorry for the delay, I am at work, hee hee. All they are is tubes with a twisted band of metal inside of them that causes the air passing through to spiral. It is supposed to make the cooling (heat transfer) more efficient. Just like a radiator, the fins contact the tube walls extracting more heat. The tubes are completely surrounded by trans fluid. It works quite well. I am sure I've seen something like them used on something else but I don't recall at the moment. I have seen similar deep trans pans with tubes run through them, but without the internal deflection, just straight through. Depending on the vehicle the pan is used in, ground clearance could be an issue. I took that picture from near ground level looking up so it appears to hang lower than it really does. When I see guys with deep oil pans hanging down I wander how often they bottom out ruining everything, especially when the car sits really low to start with.

You better be careful with outdoor parking I think the Mud daubers are eyeing that pan for nesting!
Mike
 
I heard that too, but how cool? I recall that on the wheel stander cars, (Little Red Wagon and Hemi Under Glass), the auto trans had to come up to a certain temperature to shift properly. I think their situation is a little different from street cars which are bound to produce enough heat to avoid being too cool. If that is a concern, an adjustable mixing or dump valve, like I put on my oil cooler would take care of that.View attachment 620952

What is going on with your lower radiator hose?
Mike
 
Don’t go past 175 and your fine. If you run 195, you cut the fluid life to about 50k. If temp goes over engine coolant temp, you cooler needs help.
 
What is going on with your lower radiator hose?
Mike

I strapped some spare rubber hose around it to prevent chafing under hard acceleration! It ain't pretty but then neither am I ! It wasn't necessary until I installed the oil filter adapter for the controller and cooler. The filter got pushed out further forward but thankfully I can still use a full size filter. I still don't know how much more capacity is now in the oil system. At least another quart I am guessing.
 
I wouldn’t be afraid of over cooling B&mplate type coolers have a bypass in them for when the trans fluid is too cool.
 
Bypass is good, didn’t know it had one.
 
b&m 70274 has 29,200 btu's of cooling or absorbtion capacity. The 70268 has 13000 capacity. Nasty 440, 3000 stall. Do I need the 70274 or will the 70268 suffice? Is there a point of too much cooling? Thanks. Erik.
Dang, sorry Greenmachine. Didn't mean to hijack your thread. Getting too blabby with my fingers these days! (Hand Senilty) or (Carfull Tunnel Syndrome)? I guess you got your answer though!
 
i use plate and fin coolers with a filter
one advantage of the tube and fin filter is that it will not plug- but the stock in the radiator cooler/ heater will
I mount them sideways so I can drain the oil
hard to overcool
atf 4+ has better low temp and high temp performance than Dex III it has better base stock AND additive package
actually since DexIII is no longer supported by GM you have no idea what it is anymore so get a major brand synthetic replacement- but I still like type 4+ only better is CITGO Quatrosyn
never use Dex VI or Type F
 
Thanks for all the help! Best spot to take a true temp reading for the trans? I will try the the big cooler.
 
To see how hot the oil is in the trans the converter to cooler
this temp can be much higher than the pan and can show you if you have a chance of oil breakdown
to see how well the cooler is working (or not) then the cooler to trans at the rear
or the pan
we did tests with pressure gauges and temp on both the in and the out and a temp in the pan
on a 518 we started off with about 45-50 lbs at the return
half inch hose out and in dropped the pressure about 10 lbs each
eliminating the in radiator cooler dropped 15 (do not do this in really cold climate)
you should be flowing 1 quart in 20 seconds at idle in neutral at a minimum
1/2 inch hoses and a cooler with `/1 inch in and out flows a lot more
there are reasons Ma Mopar went from 5/16 to 3/8 and to 1/2 inch lines and made the turns larger radius
you can get a good cooler from a Ford truck at the local pick and pull 1/2 inch lines and almost 12x12 plate and fin- I won't tell
you can see a pic of a good cooler in the EMPI catalog- it's a Borg Warner made in Canada
 
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