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B R/B motor mounts. What brands do you suggest?

Currently using the Pioneer https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-602250 mounts to modify.
The old small block headers that wrap under the tie rod work as a limiter strap too :)

In the 1980's had good luck with the TRW / Borg Warner mounts un-modified, I'm pretty sure they don't make them anymore?
 
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I also bought the complete rubber isolators with new powder coated steel mounts from Schumacher.

Bent the passenger side steel mount, cracked the powder coat.

Compared the original steel vs the new, no comparison, thinner with no gusset built in at the bends, if that makes sense.
 
No. My hood serves as a torque strap.

:lol:

I am with CoronetDarter, using Migtymounts.
These have a mechanical interlock (steel to steel) after a certain amount of stretch from the rubber.
This will take the strain in the extreme cases so you do not rip the rubber off the mounting pad.
 
I know lots of folks are enamored with Mity-Mounts but they didn't last for me. And this was on my previous 440 with a lot less power than what I'm currently running. I use a solid mount on the driver side and standard biscuit on the pass side to keep the vibration down. I tried solids on both sides but with my engine it was too harsh for me.
Just when everything's peachy...
 
Driver side is pulled upwards and passenger side is being squeezed, right?
My understanding is that is the conventional wisdom, however in my experience the engine is twisting clockwise, looking at it from the driver's seat.

I initially put a chain from the driver's side head to the frame, typical old school torque strap.
This is when I first noticed the passenger side of the engine, tunnel ram, hitting the hood.

Why?
I was preventing the driver's side mount from being pulled upward, so what's going on?

The driver's side mount was failing internally, and it was evident, as it was trying to twist upward.

However the passenger side wasn't compressing, it too was twisting, but it was a downward twist, and more severe.

Even when I removed the chain, with new mounts, same result.

I could be wrong, and possibly splitting hairs, but I prefer to be as accurate as possible, especially when it prevents you from opening the hood, or worse, potential damage.

When I drilled through just the passenger mount, and stuck a bolt in it, no more tilting engine, and it never came up on the driver's side, during acceleration or over time.
 
My understanding is that is the conventional wisdom, however in my experience the engine is twisting clockwise, looking at it from the driver's seat.

I initially put a chain from the driver's side head to the frame, typical old school torque strap.
This is when I first noticed the passenger side of the engine, tunnel ram, hitting the hood.

Why?
I was preventing the driver's side mount from being pulled upward, so what's going on?

The driver's side mount was failing internally, and it was evident, as it was trying to twist upward.

However the passenger side wasn't compressing, it too was twisting, but it was a downward twist, and more severe.

Even when I removed the chain, with new mounts, same result.

I could be wrong, and possibly splitting hairs, but I prefer to be as accurate as possible, especially when it prevents you from opening the hood, or worse, potential damage.

When I drilled through just the passenger mount, and stuck a bolt in it, no more tilting engine, and it never came up on the driver's side, during acceleration or over time.
Thats a good point. I've never even thought of that. Always concerned with the lh side.
 
Solid, meaning steel only?
Driver side is pulled upwards and passenger side is being squeezed, right?
Yes, the Moroso steel mount is what I use (I had a batch of stuff going to the coater at the time so I powdercoated mine black).
s-l300-2306600646.jpg
 
To resurrect an older thread, is Schumacher still in business? Most of their conversion mounts show sold out. Looking for a set to install a 440 in my 68 b-body. Currently has a SB.
 
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