Moe-Parr
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip. If you have any pictures or tips on installing I'd appreciate it. Did you install with the column in the car? Did you have to tap threads?
The column was removed and taped the threads
Thanks for the tip. If you have any pictures or tips on installing I'd appreciate it. Did you install with the column in the car? Did you have to tap threads?
I have a question about the backup light switch? I recall the switch being further up the column, not under the heater box. I tried to put the switch in and it didn't line up. And yes its the original steering column on my 67 coronet.Easy thre machine screws and a plug I still have one for sale.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/coluum-mounted-reverse-light-switches.126309/
Look over the pictures I posted and you will see two screw holes. On the other side is a single screw hole. These are for mounting the backup light switch. The switch is just inside the firewall. Is your switch like that?[/QUO
I've either lost or misplaced the screws to mount the switch. What size are they?
The lever on the switch travels from right to left when it faces the firewall. The trip pin also travels from right to left going from low gears to park. When shifting from park to reverse, a complete circuit is achieved and the rear backup lights come on. They will turn off when the column is shifted to drive or any other position other than reverse.
Yes it does. And thank you for your help.
So to recap, your switch should point towards the firewall and the wiring towards the driver. The switch lever is controlled by the trip pin and it moves from right to left from the driver's view- shifter moving from low gears to park. The switch has slot mounting for fine tune adjustment of the lever and corresponding electrical connection. I found it easy to set the switch lever all the way to the left (lever spring is compressed) with the trip pin holding it in place in the park position. The column was out of the car at the time I hooked up the electrical connector and shifted it to reverse, and yes, the lights came on. I them put column back in the car and re-checked to see if the lights would come on. They did and there was no need to do any more adjustments. It's kind of cramped down there so close to the firewall, but one can make those fine tune adjustment with small fingers. Hope this makes sense and helps you.
The lever on the switch travels from right to left when it faces the firewall. The trip pin also travels from right to left going from low gears to park. When shifting from park to reverse, a complete circuit is achieved and the rear backup lights come on. They will turn off when the column is shifted to drive or any other position other than reverse.
There was a member that said to use a 1/4×28×1 1/2 stud with a jam nut. Been searching all the local stores, and no one carries that size. And what size are the 3 screws to mount the switch?
So to recap, your switch should point towards the firewall and the wiring towards the driver. The switch lever is controlled by the trip pin and it moves from right to left from the driver's view- shifter moving from low gears to park. The switch has slot mounting for fine tune adjustment of the lever and corresponding electrical connection. I found it easy to set the switch lever all the way to the left (lever spring is compressed) with the trip pin holding it in place in the park position. The column was out of the car at the time I hooked up the electrical connector and shifted it to reverse, and yes, the lights came on. I them put column back in the car and re-checked to see if the lights would come on. They did and there was no need to do any more adjustments. It's kind of cramped down there so close to the firewall, but one can make those fine tune adjustment with small fingers. Hope this makes sense and helps you.
I would like that. I've seen the pins selling for $50 and up.A threaded stud could be a good choice. My trip pin is out of a '67 Belvedere donor car. From my pictures you can see that I took an extra step by using JB Weld. It's critical that the trip pin stay in the hole that it goes into. It has to take a lot of pressure exerted on it when it pushes the switch lever. You might want to post a WTB on this forum for a trip pin. Someone may have a pin that they can sell you. I'll give you some tips when it comes time to install the pin if you like.
Can you send me a picture of the stud and jam nut you put in the steering column?Billccm,
I don't have the answer, but was thinking the same thing. Decided to do some searching to see if anyone else already had an easy/easier fix. I've already printed several other parts. Will attempt this as well.
EDIT: The fix was a lot easier than I expected. Used a 1/4-28 x 1-1/2" stud with a jam nut. Threaded right in with a little effort.
Sure. PM me your email address.Can you send me a picture of the stud and jam nut you put in the steering column?
I sent you my email address. Not sure if you got it?Sure. PM me your email address.
I sent you my email address. Not sure if you got it?