Either run the alt power wire to the battery or relay to cut the regulator
Read post 17Here’s my thinking on negative disconnect …
All vehicles run off the alternator - battery is only used for starting. Alternator is grounded through the body.
Our stock wiring runs direct from the battery to starter and from the alternator to the starter relay where it branches to the fuse box and to the battery.
Assuming you relocate the battery to the trunk but maintain the same wiring configuration, a disconnect on the positive battery cable will NOT shut a car off, it will only prevent it from starting. However, in that same configuration it will prevent the battery from receiving any charge current from the alternator.
By the same token, because the alternator is grounded to the engine and subsequently the body, a disconnect on the ground battery cable also will not shut the car off - since the positive current from the alternator is still running through the starter relay.
So in all cases, the "shut off" in either positive of negative battery cable alone will not shut a car off.
So as far as NHRA rules go, there has to be some other component not mentioned that will shut down a running engine and the rest of the electrical system. What is it ???
I helped my cousin remotely today on a 2005 Mazda. It has a 200 amp main fuse. I was surprised.Many new cars have the battery located outside of the engine compartment. NONE have solenoids or fuses in line with the main positive cable.
I put a relay on my ignition box (msd) feed. Per dvw’s advice. It works to kill the engine via the cutoff switch.Here’s my thinking on negative disconnect …
All vehicles run off the alternator - battery is only used for starting. Alternator is grounded through the body.
Our stock wiring runs direct from the battery to starter and from the alternator to the starter relay where it branches to the fuse box and to the battery.
Assuming you relocate the battery to the trunk but maintain the same wiring configuration, a disconnect on the positive battery cable will NOT shut a car off, it will only prevent it from starting. However, in that same configuration it will prevent the battery from receiving any charge current from the alternator.
By the same token, because the alternator is grounded to the engine and subsequently the body, a disconnect on the ground battery cable also will not shut the car off - since the positive current from the alternator is still running through the starter relay.
So in all cases, the "shut off" in either positive of negative battery cable alone will not shut a car off.
So as far as NHRA rules go, there has to be some other component not mentioned that will shut down a running engine and the rest of the electrical system. What is it ???
Padam is on point here. You don't want to have the alternator output go to an open circuit. If you open the alternator output to the battery. Make sure it still feeds the water pump, fuel , pump, fan etc. Otherwise the output will try to go to the moon. It doesn't take long to melt it.I put a relay on my ignition box (msd) feed. Per dvw’s advice. It works to kill the engine via the cutoff switch.
You have to be careful if using a Denso alternator because if you just cutoff the battery it will kill the alternator.
I would need help understanding that issue. An alternator is a 3 phase synchronous generator. You vary the field current (magnetic strength) with the voltage regulator to vary the output voltage which then varies output current based on output load (resistance/impedance). Synchronous generator output voltage is affected by field strength and rpm. The higher the rpm the more voltage it will put out for a set field current. The effect of rpm and field strength is non-linear.You don't want to have the alternator output go to an open circuit. If you open the alternator output to the battery. Make sure it still feeds the water pump, fuel , pump, fan etc. Otherwise the output will try to go to the moon. It doesn't take long to melt it.
I don’t know about the magic involved.I would need help understanding that issue. An alternator is a 3 phase synchronous generator. You vary the field current (magnetic strength) with the voltage regulator to vary the output voltage which then varies output current based on output load (resistance/impedance). Synchronous generator output voltage is affected by field strength and rpm. The higher the rpm the more voltage it will put out for a set field current. The effect of rpm and field strength is non-linear.
With that said, the output voltage of the alternator is controlled by the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator varies the field current so that the alternator voltage does not exceed what you want. If you lose feedback to the voltage regulator then the alternator output voltage would go through the roof (I have personally measured over 120 volts at the alternator when the fusible link opened up in my 85 Charger) and then you can hurt the alternator. But just not having a load will not hurt an alternator. Losing voltage feedback to the regulator would.
But perhaps I am missing something.........
I have seen super capacitors used for a battery, but capacitors have a fairly large leakage current, so they self discharge. On the few setups I seen, the vehicle would need to be started every few days to re charge the capacitors. I recall Tesla bought into Maxwell (Super capacitor manufacturer), and I was thinking they might develop a hybred battery/capacitor setup to reduce charging times?HI,
What about capacitors instead of a Battery??
I saw a few video's on it .. I forget what size they were , but they looked like about 6" tall and 2 1/2"4 about around and they used like 6 of them..
All a battery does is store energy to start the motor the rig's runs off the alternator.. right? .. they got to be lighter than a battery...
good luck take care be safe
tim
The 1/0 in my professional opinion is WAY overkill. I am doing some cleanup on my race car now and it has #2 from the battery. It is welding cable so very fine stranded. Been there probably close to 40 years. It has no problems cranking my 15:1 engine. If you want to be conservative go with #1 AWG. I did in my GTX street/strip build I am doing.Anyway, on the Battery relocation. If it does not need to be NHRA with cutoff switch all you really need to do is run a 1/0 welding cable from the battery positive back to the engine compartment. If car is an automatic, the clutch linkage hole is the correct width for a battery bulkhead connector like this:
Summit Racing SUM-G1431-RED Summit Racing™ Bulkhead Cable Connectors | Summit Racing