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Battery cables

rp27g8

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Apr 24, 2011
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Andover, KS
I'm looking for battery cables for my 68 Plymouth Sport Satellite convertible with a 383. I have looked at several different cables and the prices run from $40 - $250. I don't need concourse correct. Is there really any difference in them? Any advice, suggestions, or sources will be greatly appreciated.
 
Many differences. Number of strands. More=more flexible. Insulation. Some good. Some not. "Belden" was a good brand years ago but haven't seen it in years. Worked in truck shop for years and we made our own. You could always tell when the bean counters were saving money on supplies. You could barely bend a 1/0 or 2/0 cable.
 
Some are actually copper coated aluminum. I wouldn’t try to save money on cables. I got correct copper ones, nothing to do with date code. Look good, from Layson’s 6 years ago in Farmington. Think they were just over 100.00. If I get this car done, it will be installed. Certainly will see me out and the next owner.
 
Big cables = better energy transfer.

I build these in 1/0 flexible cable, set for a 68-70 B body BB engine, about 150ish + shipping Much better than the OEM authorized stuff and solid copper cable, no copper clad aluminum stuff.

OvWju2j.jpg
 
Big cables = better energy transfer.

I build these in 1/0 flexible cable, set for a 68-70 B body BB engine, about 150ish + shipping Much better than the OEM authorized stuff and solid copper cable, no copper clad aluminum stuff.

OvWju2j.jpg
I tried to message you but your inbox is full.
 
Big cables = better energy transfer.

I build these in 1/0 flexible cable, set for a 68-70 B body BB engine, about 150ish + shipping Much better than the OEM authorized stuff and solid copper cable, no copper clad aluminum stuff.

OvWju2j.jpg
Didn’t know anything about you back then, sure looks good .
 
Your inbox is full again Crackedback. Looking to purchase a set of your battery cables
 
I see you are using welding cable. When i still worked we were thinking about going that route when the auto/truck cables got terrible.
 
The ones from the parts store work good. Not conquers, but they do the job. I had to look around to get a red positive and a black negative. I had to crimp the hot wire on and the extra body ground. Not the best, but I wasn't going to pay the $450 for the correct set up. Just my opinion.
 
@4speed68rt $450 for cables is beyond ridiculous. And 4ga units at that. If you want repro stuff that's the game, even if they are not the best value.

@bobsgtx I have some 1/0 & 2/0 big strand battery cable as well. You could seriously hurt someone whipping them with that stuff! :rofl: I use the welding cable because the strand allows it to be flexible. As with any battery cable, do your best to minimize exposure to heat, that hurt the load carrying performance of any wire.
 
Call M&H they sell the cables.

They are not wiring harnesses, so yes M&H can sell them.
 
@4speed68rt $450 for cables is beyond ridiculous. And 4ga units at that. If you want repro stuff that's the game, even if they are not the best value.

@bobsgtx I have some 1/0 & 2/0 big strand battery cable as well. You could seriously hurt someone whipping them with that stuff! :rofl: I use the welding cable because the strand allows it to be flexible. As with any battery cable, do your best to minimize exposure to heat, that hurt the load carrying performance of any wire.
I'm trying to order a set of cables from you but your inbox is full.
 
I just went thru this.
I bought a repop positive .

My negative came from local auto parts store.
And was less than $20. It looks A LOT like the oem neg cable. For a 3rd of the price
 
I just went through this -
I ended up ordering from Battery Cables USA and got 1 AWG cables cut to length with terminals and heat shrink for less than $60 total. They are very flexible and well made and exceeded expectations. They also shipped same day! I highly recommend them.
https://www.batterycablesusa.com
See the attached link from their website that lists all of the tech info like strand count, diameter, etc.
upload_2022-5-23_12-52-23.png

Be aware of the following info for some material options:
-PVC - least flexible, very resistant to oils and fuel (like off the shelf stuff)
-EPDM rubber (welding cable) - very flexible, abrasion/nick resistant, not fuel or oil resistant (as in ethanol containing fuel like in california)
-Silcone rubber - (not offered by battery cables USA) - I had ordered some Taylor wires from Summit that were silicone. VERY flexible and fuel/oil resistant. I was all set to install and then was reading that silicone abrasion resistance is terrible. So under the hood with engine movement and strapping in the wire, passing the wire past other metal parts, long term this may not be a good choice. Once it gets nicked, you could end up with a short situation eventually
-Extreme Polymer outer jacket (PTFE lined Engineered Thermoplastic) - very flexible, abrasion/nick resistant, oil and fuel resistant (I went with this choice)

Provide them terminal to terminal length, they will pre-crimp for you with heat shrink.
 
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by the way - if you're replacing cables, don't go with stock size 4 AWG. Go with 1AWG or 1/0. This will help with hot starting issues (i.e. drive to gas station, shut motor off, fuel car, 5 min later attempt to restart and starter spins weakly. With a 1 AWG cable, you've now just doubled the cable diameter and increased current capacity and descreased resistance. Now your heat soaked motor should fire instantly! Ask me how I know this...)
 
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