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Battery to Starter Relay size

erikcroissant

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I am planning on running a #4 or #6 gauge wire from the alternator directly to the starter relay. There is currently a #10 wire running from the battery to the starter relay. Is there any reason this should be switched out for a larger wire? And what amp fuses should I put on the alternator wire/wire from battery? I am running a high output alternator with Holley sniper EFI system.
 
Wire gauge does matter. You can't go wrong going with a heavier gauge. I would go as heavy as is reasonable. if you know what the average cranking current draw is of your starter is you can use this calculator to help decide a proper wire gauge for the plus battery lead. Also good to have similar gauge from battery neg to engine block ground.
https://www.batterycablesusa.com/voltage-dropYou
Ideally you want to minimize battery voltage drop to the starter. Here is a voltage drop calculator which can be used to calculate voltage drop.
Not sure why you need the fuse you mention. Do you still have an active factory "alt gauge" ? if so, the alternators output runs thru that gauge to get to the battery and needs to be of proper gauge to deal with your cars total electrical loads. Some folks bypass that path thru the bulkhead connectors for alt gauge. If you have installed additional non factory electrical stuff on your car wire gauges associated with alternator output will likely need to increase over factory wiring. Think you car would have a sacrificial "fuseable link" near the bulkhead connectors as ultimate protection between battery and the cars electrical wiring.
 
I am planning on running a #4 or #6 gauge wire from the alternator directly to the starter relay. There is currently a #10 wire running from the battery to the starter relay. Is there any reason this should be switched out for a larger wire? And what amp fuses should I put on the alternator wire/wire from battery? I am running a high output alternator with Holley sniper EFI system.
The described large gauge alternator to battery by-pass will also by-pass the designed circuit protection (fusible link) for the stock unfused wiring. Better hope you never experience a short circuit in the stock wiring with that by-pass in place.
 
Its all the same circuit. So the relay to battery wire needs to be the same gauge as the alternator to relay wire. If you leave circuit A1 B still intact the fusible link still is feeding the dash
 
IMHO, Think I would disagree on that... Even with a higher output rated alternator, the output current of alternator is never going to equal what the starter motor current requirement is, nor does the alternator produce output during cranking. If you still have an un-modified, non bypassed alt (ammeter) gauge, the wire gauge going to that gauge may need to be increased as it's in the path from alternator to battery thru bulkhead connector. The wire gauge of the alternators output, thru bulkhead and eventually back to battery should be sufficient to handle the cars maximum current requirements for lights, and whatever other 12 V devices are in the car. If you have modified the car by installing additional non factory items, then whatever the original alternator output wire gauge is, of a stock un-modified car, will likely need to be increased to deal with the additional current, unless the added additional loads are derived directly from the battery terminals. If you are adding additional electrical items directly to battery they should be always be properly fused for protection.
 
IMHO, Think I would disagree on that... Even with a higher output rated alternator, the output current of alternator is never going to equal what the starter motor current requirement is, nor does the alternator produce output during cranking. If you still have an un-modified, non bypassed alt (ammeter) gauge, the wire gauge going to that gauge may need to be increased as it's in the path from alternator to battery thru bulkhead connector. The wire gauge of the alternators output, thru bulkhead and eventually back to battery should be sufficient to handle the cars maximum current requirements for lights, and whatever other 12 V devices are in the car. If you have modified the car by installing additional non factory items, then whatever the original alternator output wire gauge is, of a stock un-modified car, will likely need to be increased to deal with the additional current, unless the added additional loads are derived directly from the battery terminals. If you are adding additional electrical items directly to battery they should be always be properly fused for protection.
You should never add any loads at the battery, or anywhere on the battery side of the ammeter, on this all-stock ammeter-based charging system. All loading needs to be on the alternator side of the ammeter as are all factory loads.
 
Correct, and not suggesting connecting additional loads directly to the battery in a stock 60's Mopar electrical system with functional Alt. gauge.
I go to many car cruises and have seen all sorts of wiring modifications under the hood. Many times, very poorly executed. Folks DO connect directly to battery, typically without proper protection, so it does happen but certainly not recommended.
 
Folks DO connect directly to battery, typically without proper protection, so it does happen but certainly not recommended.
No question on that, and have been since these cars were new. Then blame the ammeter and bulkhead connectors when they can no longer handle the excess current stress created by loading at the battery on this system.
 
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