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bent oil pan!!

chieftian

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During the rebuild I placed blocks under the car for safety. Then made the mistake of lowering the car forgetting one block. It bent the oil pan in slight concave. Now driving the car for the first time with brake in oil (with high zinc?) the pressure is on the high side. Did I bend the pick up tube in the oil pan?
 
First time drive and a new pump.....is it a high volume high pressure unit? What is the PSI on the gauge and does it stay high once it's warm. How deep is the bend? If it's more than a 1/2" deep, chances are you are at least against the pickup but even so, it shouldn't change the PSI.....
 
New pump, standard I think. Pickup tube is from a 318. It's a hash marked gauge with the needle at 3/4 when warm. When I step on the pedal it spikes just before the "H". The bend in the oil pan is about 1/2/ inch, not much.

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I purchased the engine from a reputable shop. With heads, timing cover and, oil pan.
 
You need a mechanical gauge to know for sure!
 
I just pulled the dip stick, saw a cluster of air bubbles. Gonna change the filter and oil. Hope for the best. Worse case? intake gasket? Hope it's the break in oil.

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Assuming head gaskets are good; being placed by the machine shop. I placed the intake, water pump, and most else. Could the bolt pattern and screw length in the water pump, or exhaust manifold open a leak?.. on second look, oil pan is minimal.
 
IMO, maybe check PCV if your aerating the oil.
Bent pan went from slight to 1/2" to minimal in your posts. Although not likely, a concern here might be a cracked oil pickup tube or damaged screen.
One of the worst cases I've seen due to bending the pan is a pickup screen bent open enough to allow umbrella seal remnants into a friends 440 oil pump. Cost him his main bearings.
Never the less, the closer the oil pickup is to the pan bottom the more sediment will be picked up.
 
Typical clearance of oil pick-up to bottom of pan is 1/4". Worst case...that 1/2" bend did get to the pick-up, cracked the tube itself, usually where it goes into the block. If you've got air bubbles in your oil, that's where it could be coming from.
 
What is a "mechanical gauge"? mentioned above. Do you mean cam bearings? I have a filter on the valve cover that mounts with a rubber fitting. I noticed it left little rubber shavings when pulled in and out. Could that cause an occlusion in the oil channel? If it is clogged, what are the symptoms of oil blockage? I changed the oil and even with a quart low it still read high pressure.?. Out of frustration, I ran it a little hard and the pressure spiked all the way up! Idle began to flutter with a bubbling sound. Exhaust had a rich smell. With a slight backfire.
 
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What is a "mechanical gauge"? mentioned above. Do you mean cam bearings? I have a filter on the valve cover that mounts with a rubber fitting. I noticed it left little rubber shavings when pulled in and out. Could that cause an occlusion in the oil channel? If it is clogged, what are the symptoms of oil blockage? I changed the oil and even with a quart low it still read high pressure.?. Out of frustration, I ran it a little hard and the pressure spiked all the way up! Idle began to flutter with a bubbling sound. Exhaust had a rich smell. With a slight backfire.
Mechanical = non electrical, works with pressure/temperature. Disconnect the oil sending unit (the bell looking thing on the rear of the block behind the intake manifold) and pipe up a Mechanical oil pressure gauge. If the cars in the garage, mount gauge in engine bay, if you want to watch oil pressure while driving, mount gauge in cabin. Be sure to protect the tubing, you don't want oil spraying in the cabin.
 
Mechanical gauge!! Got it....Oil looks good after a change. I used 5-30 hoping to bring down the pressure, with Lucas break-in additive; and it did. Still on the high side, but better. I do have a vacuum gauge but I can't interpret, despite tutorials. The pressure does raise after some time. Temp wire must have ben brittle and broke off, I need a wiring diagram, so no temp gauge. Coolant has not spit, and no usual signs of over heating, but it's at the top of my list. Now I'm looking at the timing. Thank you, everyone, for your input.

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What should the timing be for an LA360, bored 40 over, with an RV cam?
 
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