Best Bang for My $1500 Bucks

[robinsonwr]

womanator,
How much juice are you running on that thing? I was just looking at the the plumbing for your system. What kind of fuel system are you running? You may want to get a regulator for the nitrous side of the house. You probably know this already but the nitrous system needs 5 psi of fuel pressure and the engine will need 7 psi. Regulating the pressure will help you tune the system for optimal performance. I had a freind that was having problems of the car falling on its nose when nitrous was activated. Problem was to much unregulated fuel pressure. Hope this helps because I surely do not want to see a detonation problem for you.

I had a non competitive real street car that ran low tens off the bottle and high eights and low nines on the bottle. Also had pump gas small tire street car with big block that ran high tens low elevens on motor and mid nine on the bottle. Return style systems are the best with dedicated pumps for nitrous and engine. A small electric pump like holley red can handle the nitrous side and mechanical pump for engine. I am sorry reliving the old days when I was a nitrous junky.

 

[womanator]

robinsonwr,
I too was nos junkie.
The Dust around are house is known as the spare parts car.
Just put together with spare parts.
We run up to 150 hp with just a 110 gallon mech fuel pump.
We set the fuel side and then tune on the nos side.As you know as the the bottle gets low it will fatten up and fall on the nose.

I was at a Pinks event a few years ago and one of my sons came up to me and said one of his friends wanted to use a solinoid from me and I just said yes.
The result of that was the kid melted a piston because i didn't take the time to find out why.
He was leaning out the fuel side because the nos sol wasn't opening all the way.
When he used my sol the nos side opened up and he leaned it out where the engine was eating itself.

I did have Steve blueprint a direct port system and a plate system for my race car as of yet not installed or used.
Direct port jets blueprinted from 350-500 hp.
The plate from 200-300.
For a total of 800 hp.not that my engine can take that much juice.
But I do have tuning options between the 2 systems.

Not that it makes much since,But of the 3 A-body's the Duster is the funnest one to drive.
Get in and drive.

Trainee Jon.Sorry son.

E telling me to put it in 2nd gear.

Man this post has gone all over the place.

 

[robinsonwr]

Just making sure I have had some freinds blow up some really nice engines because lean gas conditions. Seems like you been around the block once or twice. This is my first rodeo on the mopar side but I am absolutely loving it though. Grew up around nothing but Mopars and going to the races with guys having Super A & B cars. Then my dad decided chebbies were cheaper to build, yep. Bought my first mopar last year, 1966 Plymouth Satellite Commando option 361/727 car. It reminded me of my dad's 66 hemi/4speed Satellite. I guess you can call it a mid life crisis. I was gonna go stock but the racer in me just want let it go. So it will be a stock appearing 66 Sat wearing steel wheels and hubcaps with an aluminum headed 512" motor under the hood. I have been struggling with the nitrous, maybe a NOS TopShot later on. I want it to look stock under the hood as well.

 

[67Satty]

OK, yesterday was my Satellite's first-ever outing at a drag strip and the first time in a long, long time for me.

It was an 1/8 mile strip, not known for good track prep under the best of conditions and yesterday was not the best of conditions (lots of street cars/street tires).

I drove 60 miles to the track, made ten runs, and drove it 60 miles back home. The good news is that the car seemed to run great and launch and go down the track nice and straight. I didn't break anything or leak anything on the track.

All ten runs were between 8.31 and 8.35 at about 82 mph. My best 60 foot was a 1.78, most were 1.82 or so. I don't think I did the best burnouts.

I left the front swaybar hooked up, and shocks are cheap Monroe-matics back and front. The backs are longer shocks though. 3400# SS Springs but no adjustable pinion snubber. Full 2.5" exhaust, full interior, 3600 pounds without driver. Left the air cleaner on - everything just the way I drive it on the street except for the DOT slicks.

I left just a little above idle, don't know where I shifted - just did it by feel.

I'm hoping I can pick up a few tenths just by more seat time, paying attention to a good burnout, RPM of launch, shift points. I'm thinking about trying an adjustable pinion snubber, some 90/10 shocks, and unhooking the front swaybar as the next steps too. The main thing is I had a blast!

Recap of motor/car: 9.5:1 440, stock unported 452s with stock-sized valves, 238 @ .050 hydraulic cam, Performer RPM intake, 850 Holley, Hooker 1 and 7/8" headers, Dynamic 9.5", 3.91s, 9X27 Hoosier Quicktime Pro DOTs on cop wheels, 3600 pounds, full exhaust.

Open to any ideas or tricks that are low-buck. I'd like to put some Stealths on it someday but no $$$ right now. Thanks!

 

[67 coronet]

OK, yesterday was my Satellite's first-ever outing at a drag strip and the first time in a long, long time for me.

It was an 1/8 mile strip, not known for good track prep under the best of conditions and yesterday was not the best of conditions (lots of street cars/street tires).

I drove 60 miles to the track, made ten runs, and drove it 60 miles back home. The good news is that the car seemed to run great and launch and go down the track nice and straight. I didn't break anything or leak anything on the track.

All ten runs were between 8.31 and 8.35 at about 82 mph. My best 60 foot was a 1.78, most were 1.82 or so. I don't think I did the best burnouts.

I left the front swaybar hooked up, and shocks are cheap Monroe-matics back and front. The backs are longer shocks though. 3400# SS Springs but no adjustable pinion snubber. Full 2.5" exhaust, full interior, 3600 pounds without driver. Left the air cleaner on - everything just the way I drive it on the street except for the DOT slicks.

I left just a little above idle, don't know where I shifted - just did it by feel.

I'm hoping I can pick up a few tenths just by more seat time, paying attention to a good burnout, RPM of launch, shift points. I'm thinking about trying an adjustable pinion snubber, some 90/10 shocks, and unhooking the front swaybar as the next steps too. The main thing is I had a blast!

Recap of motor/car: 9.5:1 440, stock unported 452s with stock-sized valves, 238 @ .050 hydraulic cam, Performer RPM intake, 850 Holley, Hooker 1 and 7/8" headers, Dynamic 9.5", 3.91s, 9X27 Hoosier Quicktime Pro DOTs on cop wheels, 3600 pounds, full exhaust.

Open to any ideas or tricks that are low-buck. I'd like to put some Stealths on it someday but no $$$ right now. Thanks!

try some fine tuning at the track.mark your drive timming and try a run or two after some advance.if no change(or slower)put it back.uncork the headders(depending on the exhaust)and try that.bring some new plugs with you and install at the track.make a run and read them to check on how your carb is doing in track situation.but most of all your having fun!!!try the little stuff,can make big changes to the surprise of many.

 

[robinsonwr]

67Satty, 1.80 60 foot is desent for a street car. The thing is once you pull the swaybar and put some dedicated adjustable shocks on front the ET's will drop. Rule of thumb is a tenth in the 60 will equate to two or more tenths on the big end. If you are running SS springs I would not run a pinion snubber. For about the same money I would invest in some three way adjustables for the rear. If you really want to be able to tune the suspension Rancho 9000 shocks are still available and give I think a ten way adjustability. Are you leaving under stall conditions? Sometimes leaving from idle shocks the tires harder and reduces 60 foot times. The car is capable of mid to low 1.60 sixty foot times with a foot brake. If you can get her there you will probably be looking at some high sevens in the eighth, good luck.

 

[robinsonwr]

For the most part if you add 4 seconds to your eighth mile time it should come close to the quarter mile equivalent. The faster you run in the eighth the variable will decrease. My car ran a 7.32 eighth and a 11.43 quarter. My 60 foot times were in the 1.65 range with a foot brake. The car had alot more in it but the engine went south, number 4 rod bearing. By the time I figured out what the 60 needed the engine was hurt. The suspension was reacting to quickly with 90/10. I really needed to slow the front end travel down. The front end was raising to fast and unloading the tires on the drop, happened before the 60 foot mark. Found the problem watching video of the launch. Also probably could have used other than 50/50 rate in rear to slow the rear squat. Adjustability is the key and then just play with variables one at a time until you hit the combination it wants.

 

[67Satty]

Cool! Thanks for the ideas and encouragement! I think I will start shopping for some shocks next then. The Calvert stuff would run me close to $400 for four, or I could go the Summit brand adjustable drag shocks for more like $150 for four, or Competion Engineering for about $200 for four.

Mopar Performance no longer sells a long 50/50 drag shock for B-Bodies. Weird.

 

[robinsonwr]

Cool! Thanks for the ideas and encouragement! I think I will start shopping for some shocks next then. The Calvert stuff would run me close to $400 for four, or I could go the Summit brand adjustable drag shocks for more like $150 for four, or Competion Engineering for about $200 for four.

Mopar Performance no longer sells a long 50/50 drag shock for B-Bodies. Weird.

Look on EBay for Rancho 9000 part # 99118. These are 9-way adjustable shocks for the rear of your car. Before Rancho converted to Calvert Racing these shocks were being used by the stock eliminator guys with great results. Since these are older model shocks they can be purchased new on EBay for about a $100.00 per pair. The great thing about them is the ease of adjustability at the track and can be changed back for street cruising. Use a three way adjustable up front with these out back will give some major adjustability.