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best roll cage for strip/street 68charger ? info needed

daytona kid

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I would like some tips on cages for my 68. I'm restoring it to a strip car that is street-able.
I am planning on 500hp or so., and will be running it on the strip way more than the street. Back seat will be gone, but want 2 buckets up front.
1st--What's the best one for the bucks?.
2nd--Should I put it in now while I have the main floor and trunk pans out?
Thought it might be the best time to put a cage in it, before or as I put the floor pans in.
Any kind of cage info or links will be greatly appreciated.
 
1. Tie the sub frame together.
2. Box in the front subframes below the foot wells while old floor is out.
3. Install floor.
4. Install out riggers below floor.
5. Call jegs a very reasonable cage for low cost.
6. Tig weld if going to use chrome Moly. Mig weld if your using mild dom.
7. Install knee bar behind dash.
8. Keep top hoop 1 inch off ceiling.
9. Side bars should be removable.
10 Review requirements with NHRA rules.
11. Don't grind welds after install.
 
6, 8, or 10 pt?

Thats depends alot on you. I have a 6 point bar setup in my 63 as its legal down to 10.0 with the stock firewall in the car. But I drive it much more on the street then I race it and I did not want to worry about banging my head with a full cage so I went with the 6 point bar and have had no problem hitting my head. I did not use removeable side bars as I wanted it to help stiffen the car and I can easily slide over my side bars. But if you mostly race you will have a helmet on most of the time and may want to go with a cage. Ron

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Thats depends alot on you. I have a 6 point bar setup in my 63 as its legal down to 10.0 with the stock firewall in the car. But I drive it much more on the street then I race it and I did not want to worry about banging my head with a full cage so I went with the 6 point bar and have had no problem hitting my head. I did not use removeable side bars as I wanted it to help stiffen the car and I can easily slide over my side bars. But if you mostly race you will have a helmet on most of the time and may want to go with a cage. Ron


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Hey Ron,
Do you have a shot of the back bars and how they fit down past your rear bench seat? Is yours welded to the floor pans with the plate?
I have been thinking of putting a 6 point in mine, because they're going to tell me to go home at the strip without one.... OOPS!
 
how about mine.

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or more extreme.
 

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cage/roll-bar

For just a simple 4-6-8-10 pt roll-bar or cage Compiteition Engineering sells a cheap "mild steel" cage "B-Body Mopar kit" type set-up too, bars prebent & notched, you cut some lengths to fit {shown below}... I like Chris Alston Chassis Works myself, I only lived about 15 miles from their old shop, I knew the shop formeman Jim B. very well at the time too, they aren't the cheapest, you will probably need to give them either a drawing & some demensions for them you build you a custom cage, but a 4-6pt Roll-bar is a slam dunk... Snakeoil24 pretty much covered what all to do..., Good luck & have fun, keep us posted, on the progress....

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CalTracs & roller sliders front spring mounts {usually on the front on Mopars}, both are cheap & easy to install or adjust & work very well up the around the mid 8 second barrier with simple leaf spring suspension, with good double adjustable shocks... you can fit about a 13" tire with the set up, done properly... more than adequate for a 68 Charger w/500hp..
 

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You really need to decide how quick your pocket will allow you to go!!!!For a street strip car 8point usually is more than adequate.You have to remember a cage becomes dangerous on the street!Your head meets steel tubing,due the math! What ever cage you decide on do in 4130 chromoly.Cars tend to bring better resale with 4130.
With a car using 8 or 10 point cages are usually mounted to the floors on 6x6 plates.You can mount to bars/outriggers.Either way the floor needs to be installed first.Atleast prepped and set in place ready to weld.
 
Hey Ron,
Do you have a shot of the back bars and how they fit down past your rear bench seat? Is yours welded to the floor pans with the plate?
I have been thinking of putting a 6 point in mine, because they're going to tell me to go home at the strip without one.... OOPS!


What I wanted to do was have the rear bar go in where the seat cushion meets the seat back as I have seen that before. So I used the 6 x 6 plate and welded them right over the frame where it starts going up behind the seat back. I also welded the front plates over the frame and the centers at the rocker panel as thats the strongest point there other then going thru the floor to the frame connector but my bar did not line up with the frame connector. Problem I had was I could not fit the seat back or cushion back in as it would not go between the bars. I thought about cuttint the seat and cushion metal frames to get them in but then I realized I dont think many if anyone will be crawling under the bar to get in the back seat anyway. So I just put a sheet of metal there between the sat back and trunk area and put carpet over it. I know I cant climb back there as I have to get my son to get back there and clean the window. I really feel the 6 point bar strenthed the car more then the frame connectors did. Ron

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With it being a charger (read "heavy") and only 500hp, why do you even need a cage? If you just want to have one, just put a 6 point bar in it. Inexpensive and good to 10 ohs...provided the car isn't butchered.
 
With it being a charger (read "heavy") and only 500hp, why do you even need a cage? If you just want to have one, just put a 6 point bar in it. Inexpensive and good to 10 ohs...provided the car isn't butchered.

10 and slower requires 8 point cage!
 
[SIZE=-1]4.5 ROLL BAR
Roll bar mandatory in all cars running 11.00 (*7.00) to 11.99 (*7.49) and in convertibles running 11.00 (*7.00) to 13.99 (*8.59), and in dune-buggy type vehicles running 12.00 (*7.50) seconds and slower. Permitted in all cars. See General Regulations 4.10, 10.6.
4.6 ROLL CAGE
Roll cage mandatory in cars running 10.99 (*6.99) or quicker, or any car exceeding 135 mph (217.2 km/h). Full bodied cars, with unaltered firewall, floor and body (from firewall rearward, wheeltubs permitted), running between 10.00 (*6.40) and 10.99 (*6.99) roll bar permitted in place of roll cage. Cars running between 7.50 (*4.50) and 9.99 (*6.39) must have chassis inspected every three-years by the ASN and have a serialised sticker affixed to cage before participation. Must conform to specs for body style used, as listed in General Regulations 4.11, 10.6.

[SIZE=-1] 4.10 ROLL BARS
All roll bars must be within 6-inches (15.2 cm) of the rear, or side, of the driver's head, extend in height at least 3-inches (7.6 cm) above the driver's helmet with driver in normal driving position, and be at least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1-inch (2.5 cm) of the driver's door. Roll bar must be adequately supported or cross-braced to prevent forward or lateral collapse of roll bar. Rear braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5-inches (12.7 cm) from the top of the roll bar. Sidebar must be included on driver's side. The side bar must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar attached to frame; installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame and therefore it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel tubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch (15.2 cm) x 6-inch (15.2 cm) x .125-inch (3.2 mm) steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker sill area with .125-inch (3.2 mm) reinforcing plates. All 4130 chrome moly welding must be done by approved TIG Heliarc process; mild steel (or ST51) welding must be approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited. See illustration (Drawing 12).
Roll bar must be padded anywhere driver's helmet may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1.
4.11 ROLL CAGE
All cage structures must be designed in an attempt to protect the driver from any angle, 360-degrees. All 4130 chrome-moly tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel tube welding must be approved MIG wire feed or TIG heliarc process. Welding must be free of slag and porosity. any grinding of welds prohibited. Additionally, roll cage must be padded any where the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position. TAD, TAFC, Pro Stock, Funny Car & Top Fuel padding must meet SFI Spec 45.1.

[/SIZE]



[/SIZE]
 
Those rules are even out dated now.If you have a 2009 and newer your are good to 9.99 or slower with no cage.Haven't seen it in writing,but told from a solid source!.
 
I guess I will go with an 8pt roll bar. Don't imagine I'll ever go quicker than 10.00. I hope to find a kit that is already notched. I will be calling some of the suppliers mentioned next week. You guys are great with the info. Big Thnx.
 
Ron what is the weight of your cage? Cleyon


It was a kit from S & W and I remember it weighed about 70 lbs I believe.
The 8 point is like what I use only I dont have the 2 bars from the main hoop to the trans tunnel. No one has ever told me I had to have them as years ago it was that a 6 point bar was good to 10.0 but I see they say the bar must be supported forward and lateral which I would assume lateral means the 2 bars to the trans tunnel which I never put in. But in the 70's they said the 6 point bar was good. And I have raced my car many times and no tech inspector has ever said anything to me about the bar. I dont see where it says it has to be an 8 point bar but I assume thats what they mean when it says lateral support ? Ron

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Here is how my 6 point bar held up when I rolled my old Dart 6 times in 1982. And I welded it in myself. Ron

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Another shot. You can see it bent some but it held up. Ron

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This pic was taken 2 weeks before I rolled it. Ron

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I ordered a jegs 8pt bar today, along with one of their racing seats so I'll be able to fit it all together right. And I ordered some torque plates from US Car Tool. I have a project thread started so if you want to see my progress go to "$500- 68 charger" in the projects section.
Thnx for the info on this one guys, I learned a lot..:icon_cheers:
 
Ron,
What were the circumstances that led to the crash? Did you walk away? Any dash cam video? lol
 
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