Best source for a Torqueflite re-seal kit.

[oldbee]

Converter will fill back up quicker in N than P. Line press is 5-30 in P and 55psi in N.

 

[AR67GTX]

Converter will fill back up quicker in N than P. Line press is 5-30 in P and 55psi in N.

OK - that makes sense. It takes so long to pump up in park I guess I just figured the pump didn't run in that position.

 

[AR67GTX]

I assume sfm is a service manual? If it isn't let me know. If you look at the exploded view of the valve body you'll see the torque converter control valve. That I believe acts as a check valve, it's spring loaded. After that go to the schematic 1st or second page of them. In the lower left hand corner you'll see the tcc valve follow it both ways. Yea trans are scary but if you have a service manual you can do it. I burned up a set of clutches 35 years ago pulled it apart and fixed it and did a pump bushing. I'm just a backyard mechanic. Never took a trans a part. If you decide to go deeper into tranny I could give you a few hints I learned from mistakes. No big mistakes but hints to make it easier.
The pump runs all the time.

I have the service manual. Of course browsing through them is always a little intimidating as you start to believe you need about $1000 in special tools to accomplish anything. When in reality most of the work can usually be accomplished with a little improvising. First step is to pull it and I'll probably get to that right after Christmas.

Thanks

 

[oldbee]

Disassembly&assembly is easiest with tailshaft pointing towards ground.I did mine 3 times while racing it. Went with a Hemi frt clutch/band assy. Cleanliness is most important.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Oldbee is right about tail shaft pointing down. I forgot to tighten down front band and had a pile of parts come out that didn't need to be removed.
One thing I'd check before removing pump is the end play of input shaft to make sure it's in spec. If not you can adjust it as you put in back together. To pull front pump housing I use a couple of pieces of 3/8"X 12" long threaded rod couple of 5 lb weights with nuts and fender washers as slide hammers. The 3/8" is from memory but you'll find out. Would like to hear how it goes?

 

[oldbee]

Yup, 3/8" coarse if I remember. Also a big c-clamp style valve spring compressor works great on accumulator piston!! Waiting for the questions this winter!!

 

[dvw]

The only tools you need are snap ring pliers, some type of compression tool to compress the front clutch springs (google, there are plenty of home made ideas), a bushing driver for the front pump bushing. The front pump will come out with a couple of 3/8x18 bolts and a length of chain. Pry the chain across the bell housing. Get Carl Munroes book, great info for the first timer. The toughest part is install the forward clutch piston as the seal is covered and it can take some finesse. don't over tighten the valve body, front pump or pan. Snug is good. A standard build with a proper valve body will hold 700hp without the Hemi stuff for a long time when properly assembled with stock parts. 3.8-4.2 lever, 4 plate front clutch solid KD servo, proper clearance is about all it takes. I've built 100's of them.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpb-hp1399/overview/
Doug

 

[oldbee]

Per dvw- lubricate,lubricate.i got lucky with Hemi frt drum, stopped at trans shop and they had one laying in the trash pile.So I went onward.

 

[Fran Blacker]

This is obvious but remove torque converter with trans. When I put my car together the first time didn't know that the engine was pulled with torque on it you wreck pump bushing. I didn't pull the engine but paid for it. Leaking shift lever seal pulled the pan oops small chips in pan. Started my internal trans education right then.

 

[AR67GTX]

Thanks for the tips. I'm sure I'll be asking for assistance. Good to know about working on it in a vertical position. I was going to rig up a stand to support it on a bench upside down. Now I think I'll try to rig up something to hang it from an engine stand.

Thanks to all

 

[moparwacko]

I've always used a 55 gal drum, with square stock with threaded rods spanned across if you can picture that. Seems about the right height, can move the square stock up or down & retighten. And all the goop goes in the bottom, and if/when you drop something it's in there.
Good luck, you'll have fun. It's really not that difficult just a little complicated.

 

[snakeoil24]

Per dvw- lubricate,lubricate.i got lucky with Hemi frt drum, stopped at trans shop and they had one laying in the trash pile.So I went onward.

oldbee I want to change my front drum too a hemi 5 clutch piece. Hte transd I have now is only a 4 clutch piece what should i buy??

 

[dvw]

oldbee I want to change my front drum too a hemi 5 clutch piece. Hte transd I have now is only a 4 clutch piece what should i buy??

No need, 4 clutches will get it done in anything that doesn't need a drum upgrade to aftermarket. Hemi drum is heavy, uses a nearly impossible to find band, big$$$. same with 4 pin planetary, 3 pin will survive easily.
Doug

 

[493 Mike]

My winter project is to pull the leaky Torqueflite out and replace as many seals and gaskets as I can without a complete disassembly. The transmission functions fine - it just leaks. The converter looses all it's fluid overnight and I have to run it in neutral for 30 seconds to pump it back full before I can move. The fluid from the convertor apparently overfills the transmission body and then it runs out past various shaft seals, gaskets, etc.

So who makes the best gasket and seal kit for something like this?

Related to this I can't seem to get the pan to seal back up tight after a filter change. I'm on my second or third gasket and I even bought one of the new reproduction pans and I still get a seep - mostly at the right-forward corner where it sort of cantilevers out a little. I even cut a rail reinforcement for that corner out of heavy metal and only slowed it down. So, what's the secret to sealing a transmission pan? I don't ever remember having a problem with this on past Mopars. I have a new blue gasket which I haven't tried before. I'm wondering if using RTV on a transmission pan gasket is an issue?? Should I instead just install it dry? Any tricks of the trade would be appreciated.

Thanks

Dan

Transgo makes a modified manual valve which allows the converter to fill in "park". It is called the "No Yoyo" kit. They have several tricks to reduce drain back including different bushings and cutting the flex plate to allow for misalignment issues.
Mike

 

[Fran Blacker]

Just want to add a Hemi torque convertor and maybe after market convertors without grinding front pump housing so convertor will go in far enough in. A guy I know put a Fairbanks 10.5"convertor in a 67 440 GTX ran it for a few days and had to be hooked. Needs to be ground near seal and the bulge going toward the bottom of pump housing. Don't grind to much you'll go through to the hole use to suck oil to pump.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Transgo makes a modified manual valve which allows the converter to fill in "park". It is called the "No Yoyo" kit. They have several tricks to reduce drain back including different bushings and cutting the flex plate to allow for misalignment issues.
Mike

oldbee stated the line pressure is 5-30 lbs in park. All the park/neutral stuff doesn't solve the problem. If it was me I'd pull the valve body first. Clean up the torque convertor control valve and then the line pressure regulator valve and check the adjustment and make sure it in the factory spec.