Beware: wrong vin on ebay again

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

I have a question if i was going to buy a mopar gtx, or any b mopar car how do i make sure the car vin and body # are correct, some cars for sale have fender tags some don't is this a problem and how do i match body #'s up agaist the vin #'s to make sure the car is correct.

I'm no expert on the subject but since nobody else has chimed in yet, I believe after the 67 model year the entire VIN no.(68+69) was stamped on the engine, trans and the Sequential Production Number was stamped in core support and inside the trunk lip (under the weatherstrip) and behind the rear bumper. After 69 (70 and up) the last 8 digits were stamped on the drivetrain. I have seen other threads on this site with details and specific locations. The fender tag will also include the VIN and also the various details of what was included in the build of the car. This info is also located on the broadcast sheet that was sent down the assembly line while the car was being built.
If you are looking to buy a car and are concerned about Matching Numbers and Correctness of the car you will definitely want to do your research as those things should have an affect on the price of the car. If you have any Year One catalogs they contain some basic info on decoding VINs and Fender Tags anlong with Engine Stampings. The info is basic, but will give you an idea of what you are after.
I have always bought cars that I planned on building to my taste and wasn't concerned with originality.
Good Luck and Happy Hunting!

 

[MarPar]

69 started with the vin number on motor and trans.

vin doesnt exist anywhere but the tag and the buildsheet in 68. only shipping order number was used; for the trunk lip and drivetrain and the rad core.

 

[Ron 73]

i'm no expert on the subject but since nobody else has chimed in yet, i believe after the 67 model year the entire vin no.(68+69) was stamped on the engine, trans and the sequential production number was stamped in core support and inside the trunk lip (under the weatherstrip) and behind the rear bumper. After 69 (70 and up) the last 8 digits were stamped on the drivetrain. I have seen other threads on this site with details and specific locations. The fender tag will also include the vin and also the various details of what was included in the build of the car. This info is also located on the broadcast sheet that was sent down the assembly line while the car was being built.
If you are looking to buy a car and are concerned about matching numbers and correctness of the car you will definitely want to do your research as those things should have an affect on the price of the car. If you have any year one catalogs they contain some basic info on decoding vins and fender tags anlong with engine stampings. The info is basic, but will give you an idea of what you are after.
i have always bought cars that i planned on building to my taste and wasn't concerned with originality.
good luck and happy hunting!

x 2..

 

[696pack]

The seller made a note in the bottom of the description of the car that was added after he was questioned on the V.I.N. so there is no reason to be bashing the sell for mis-representation.

 

[detmatt1]

69 started with the vin number on motor and trans.

vin doesnt exist anywhere but the tag and the buildsheet in 68. only shipping order number was used; for the trunk lip and drivetrain and the rad core.

The vins were stamped on the engine and trans in `68. I see more `68's that still have there original engines in them lately and everyone of them has had the vin stamped on the engine. Just in a different spot then `69 and later. It's up by the oil pressure sending unit on the big blocks, adjacent to the mating surface of the trans. The automatics were stamped adjacent to the stamp on the engine and the 4 spds were stamped in the same location as `69s.

 

[696pack]

The vins were stamped on the engine and trans in `68. I see more `68's that still have there original engines in them lately and everyone of them has had the vin stamped on the engine. Just in a different spot then `69 and later. It's up by the oil pressure sending unit on the big blocks, adjacent to the mating surface of the trans. The automatics were stamped adjacent to the stamp on the engine and the 4 spds were stamped in the same location as `69s.

Xs2 I agree. It was hit or miss on V.I.N. stampings all through the year on
68s.

 

[kdtjb]

The seller made a note in the bottom of the description of the car that was added after he was questioned on the V.I.N. so there is no reason to be bashing the sell for mis-representation.

I sent him a request for pictures of the #s on the radiator support. He said he would take the pictures and send them to me today. As of now no pictures. I am not bashing, just warning. Not everybody knows what to look for. But on this car they better look at the other # locations. I (about 5 or 6 years ago) bought a 1964 Plymouth sport fury from Ed Kelly of Bonsell California. He had me check the VIN # with the title, sure enough it matched. 622 bla bla bla ect.( yes it was a current Califorina title that said 1964 plymouth sport fury). To make a long story short. I bought a 5500 dollar parts car. I could not tell the the VIN tag had ever been messed with. But later found out ALL (did I mention every single one) 64 SF started with 344---- The state of Idaho knew more than me. It is all our jobs on this and every site to warn its members if something seems out of order. And I am going to do just that. And to you 696pack, I have a great respect for what you know about mopars. I think you need to pass some of that along when you see somthing amiss also. P.S. I like this site better than Moparts also, but right is right.

 

[kdtjb]

Or he could have just used said that this was a common mistake with Mopar VIN tags like this guy did
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969...4902717?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3370bf13bd

In all the attention I was giving to my original post I missed this one. Also not, ( and I'm being politicly correct here because, well just because ) a normal situation. Let me stick my neck out and say , Ah, Ah, um, you got me a little gun shy here. Bull ****. There I said it, I feel so much better know.

 

[696pack]

Here is my point.

If a potential buyer comes to this site and says they are interested in a particular car, links a site with pictures and asks people for there opinion or if they see something wrong or out of place then it is fair game to pick apart.

Just posting links to for sale ads and picking something apart and passing judgement on a car or the seller is just wrong and uncalled for.

If you think you are doing some kind of a service to a potential buyer what makes you think he looks on this site?

It is all just idle talk that serves no point unless there is a buyer present. Typical of the OTHER site ripping cars apart for no reason. I chalk it up to cabin fever in the winter.

If you think you owe it to the world to let everybody that MAY be interested in the car do it where it will do some good, on the site it is listed on. If it is an Ebay auction simply ask the seller a question which if they want to answer the question and post the answer for all to see they will. If not then so be it.

Unless you live under a rock people know the power of the Internet and will find resources that will educate them about a car they are interested in if they have questions. Not all people CARE if it is right or not. In fact MOST buy a car based on eye appeal and really don't care if it is a tribute, put togather car or what ever it is. If they have concerns otherwise then you can bet that they are doing the research.