Bleeding Brakes.. Problem?

[440+6]

Most likely the flex line to the rear but the way Rusty explained it is exactly how I would go about finding it.

 

[mopar 3 B]

If your flexible lines are that bad do us a favor and replace them. I can see them blowing when you really need your brakes.

 

[Archie340]

Thanks for all the great info! Definately gave me more to think about. The fluid on the right side was milky looking, I know not good. I will get back to the rear brakes in a couple days as soon as I finish another project on the old dodge.

 

[dfarmercse]

I just fixed this problem yesterday by replacing the rear flex hose. Now I can bleed all 4

 

[Canyon707]

I just replace my drum brakes to disc all 4 wheels. Although theses are new drag brakes the process was somewhat the same. I had to replace the proporationing valve as well, did new lines and a new master cylinder. Bleeding from the passenger rear first the process was depress the pedal and hold it down open the bleeder into a bottle half filled with fluid of the same. I use Dot4. close the bleeder and let up the pedal. Press down again and open the bleeder till clear fluid runs through the line with no air. do the same to all wheels I have 4 caliper pistons so I have to bleed the inner and outer of each caliper. continue to chek the master as to not let it run low on fluid. Once I completed the bleed I install a pressure gauge in the front calipers and adjusted the pressure to 650 lbs since the master applies presure equal to all wheels. the rears are factory 1100 psi so the fronts need to be turned down as to make the rear wheels do most of the work applying the brakes to the larger tires and not the narrow front tires. This set up is for strange engineering drag disc brakes.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Key words here drag disk brakes. For a street setup you want the front brakes to do most of the work. What he has described is fine on a dry drag strip but way not cool on a wet slippery road way.

 

[Canyon707]

Key words here drag disk brakes. For a street setup you want the front brakes to do most of the work. What he has described is fine on a dry drag strip but way not cool on a wet slippery road way.

Correct and thanks for mentioning that. On drag cars the big tires do the stopping.

 

[The Horvaths]

I am uncomfortable with the concept of considering clearing obstructions a long-term fix. If the flex lines are blocked up due to moisture and/or interior deterioration, they should be replaced. Then wheel cylinders should be inspected for contamination and steel lines should be evaluated for corrosion. I am firmly in the " got to be able to make it stop before you make it go" camp.

 

[uwss]

My master was full of rust gunk; I replaced the master and flushed the lines with synthetic brake fluid until it ran clear. The lines were disconnected at the wheels. I had my daughter keep filling it up. I pulled the wheel cylinders apart and they had years of crap in them. So, a complete overhaul was done. Pain in the *** but worth it. You can install new bearings, pack 'em, turn the drums, install better aftermarket shoes(there is a thread here about better shoes and drilling). Car really brakes good now. I spent 3 days on this; getting the parts took one day.

 

[Canyon707]

I ended up doing the same thing I could scoop out junk with a spoon in my master cylinder. I replaced it with a new one did all new disc brakes 4 wheels Power bled with a gallon of dot4. All new flex lines also. I was a bit shocked it was in that condition but I guess the guy who had it before never did much with that area. My tip to look as the top of the master was completely covered in dust and dirt. Once I opened it up to look inside I knew was into a new project.

 

[furious64]

I would start at the source of pressure (master cylinder) for pressure.
I would bet the mstr cyl is bad since it was described as being hard.
Air makes brakes spongy, rust makes thing stick in place over the winter.
Call when the bets pay off

 

[CyBeRdEmOn12345]

If the master cylinder was bad, the pedal would be low, because the rear side has a LOT to do with pedal height.

Could you elaborate on this? I recently got my car back from a body shop and noticed the brake pedal was sitting pretty high. When I started driving, I felt almost no resistance in my brakes so I pulled over and checked it out. Damn reservoir was bone dry for my rear brakes! So today I bled my rears after adding some DOT4 to it and the pedal still sits kinda high. I got resistance back (they're actually pretty firm now) in my brakes but it still sits pretty high.

 

[Kern Dog]

get a clear 1/2 liter water bottle pour some brake fluid little shake pour out
fill 1/4 way up get some vaccuum line that fits and seals on bleeder screw
loosen bleeder screw attach rubber vaccuum line to bleeder put line into brake fluid in bottle
have someone pump brakes sloooow watch bottle for bubbles stop when bubbles stop tighten bleeder screw
do this on all wheels .\
make sure master cylinder has fluid at all times
done

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