Hemirunner
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Order up!
Blocks....
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Imperial One
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Couldn't find anything on their website. Will be curious about pricing.
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Suregrip391
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When I asked them back in January they said Pricing will be near $4500.00 for the blocks. They have to iron out a few costs to finish the exact pricing. They said the first bunch of castings will be a group of 95 pieces and will ship on a first in, first out as ordered. To be on the list, they wanted a $1000.00 deposit.
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I would pass on the early ordering. Let them work out the castings then order. I bet you will find this good advice.
Suregrip391
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Absolutely! I’ve heard the stories on previous offerings from other sources. It’s never good.
Tex013
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last week they told me US$4500.00 for a wedge block - at end of year .
Not sure these guys will have block issues as they currently do engine blocks and have runs on the board
Tex
Not sure these guys will have block issues as they currently do engine blocks and have runs on the board
Tex
Imperial One
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Did they have prices for cylinder heads as well?
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As someone who has money on a Bill Mitchell Products aluminum RB block, I'm going to say that's 1,300 less than a BMP block at retail.
I'm glad I'm able to choose the one that's over 100 lbs lighter.
scot
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I already have a set of heads, so I didn't inquire.
moparpoor
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Anyone get their block that was suppose to be ready in September?
scot
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Called them again last week...was told mid to late October now
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3½ months ago my deposit was sent to Bill Mitchell Products for my RB aluminum block. That's what I was told, and I believe the shop owner/engine builder. I think it was a 90-120 day time frame. I actually need a couple of months to recharge the bank account, as my car has been in a local shop since June. That work was supposed to have started February or March, and then the Wuhan, China biological attack occured.
My parts bill for the local work that is wrapping up now wasn't that much because a lot of the parts and systems I just had installed have been bought as far back as 3 years ago, some about 2 years ago, and a little over half of "the gear" last October, and hopefully tomorrow I'll get my car back, but the labor we agreed to is $9,000. I thought that was a lot of money, and it is, but he's done a lot of work on my car, and added work he's done at no extra charge, he is all about doing what should be done and doing it RIGHT.
So yeah, I need a little time anyway before I can pay off my block to the shop in Tampa.
Hopefully I can make enough "discretionary funds" to get the stroker finished and installed by next October 2021. That would be GREAT.
My parts bill for the local work that is wrapping up now wasn't that much because a lot of the parts and systems I just had installed have been bought as far back as 3 years ago, some about 2 years ago, and a little over half of "the gear" last October, and hopefully tomorrow I'll get my car back, but the labor we agreed to is $9,000. I thought that was a lot of money, and it is, but he's done a lot of work on my car, and added work he's done at no extra charge, he is all about doing what should be done and doing it RIGHT.
So yeah, I need a little time anyway before I can pay off my block to the shop in Tampa.
Hopefully I can make enough "discretionary funds" to get the stroker finished and installed by next October 2021. That would be GREAT.
Guys I came across this a couple of days ago on Moparts. An interesting read, some of you may not have came across this yet. From RBRE. Check it out.
RE: Bulldog blocks. Over the last 4 years I have purchased 16 Bulldog blocks. Every single block had some kind of issue. They could all be corrected and used if you owned a machine shop except the last 5 we received. Many had the cam tunnel too tight, not an easy fix. All were too tight in the main saddles and needed align hone. Some had the main bearing tangs in the wrong locations. A few blocks wouldn’t accept a distributor because the hole was too small. Three blocks wouldn’t accept the oil drive gear and had to be machined longer for the gear. A recent block had a pin hole in a cylinder. All the blocks have an oil pump bolt that goes into the water jacket. We had 4 blocks that had the soft plug holes machined too small. Some blocks had the rear water holes tapped too big and the plugs would never tighten. All the HEMI blocks need to be machined for pushrod clearance. The oil pickups adaptor was a copy of the world block but is on the wrong angle and the adaptor + pickup hit the crank. Many of the blocks need to be lifter bushed because the lifter holes were .002” tapered. Last week we had a new 540 Hemi on the dyno for cam break in. When we removed the valve covers the oil was milky. Removed the intake and pressurized the tower and found 8 pin holes in the lifter gallery. When I called Bradshaw he said stop leak, should fix it and he would call me in the morning. That is not the answer I want to hear and wouldn’t send it out the door like that. After seeing this new problem we pressure tested the 5 new blocks I have and 4 of them all leak water into the lifter oil passage. There is no fix for this. I have called Bradshaw every day for 10 days and he will not even return my calls. If you have a Bulldog block or waiting for one I would check all the things I mentioned.
Ray Barton
RE: Bulldog blocks. Over the last 4 years I have purchased 16 Bulldog blocks. Every single block had some kind of issue. They could all be corrected and used if you owned a machine shop except the last 5 we received. Many had the cam tunnel too tight, not an easy fix. All were too tight in the main saddles and needed align hone. Some had the main bearing tangs in the wrong locations. A few blocks wouldn’t accept a distributor because the hole was too small. Three blocks wouldn’t accept the oil drive gear and had to be machined longer for the gear. A recent block had a pin hole in a cylinder. All the blocks have an oil pump bolt that goes into the water jacket. We had 4 blocks that had the soft plug holes machined too small. Some blocks had the rear water holes tapped too big and the plugs would never tighten. All the HEMI blocks need to be machined for pushrod clearance. The oil pickups adaptor was a copy of the world block but is on the wrong angle and the adaptor + pickup hit the crank. Many of the blocks need to be lifter bushed because the lifter holes were .002” tapered. Last week we had a new 540 Hemi on the dyno for cam break in. When we removed the valve covers the oil was milky. Removed the intake and pressurized the tower and found 8 pin holes in the lifter gallery. When I called Bradshaw he said stop leak, should fix it and he would call me in the morning. That is not the answer I want to hear and wouldn’t send it out the door like that. After seeing this new problem we pressure tested the 5 new blocks I have and 4 of them all leak water into the lifter oil passage. There is no fix for this. I have called Bradshaw every day for 10 days and he will not even return my calls. If you have a Bulldog block or waiting for one I would check all the things I mentioned.
Ray Barton
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I would have crawled through the phone to strangle him with a response like that.
I played intermediary for a guy in Germany who is handicapped, deaf, and paid in full for his Bulldog block. Time for shipping came and went. Bradshaw stopped replying to his customer's emails in February. I believe that his money was refunded a couple of months ago, but the only thing that got some kind of action was the customer contacting the foundry, and then the foundry demanded that they no longer be contacted regarding Bulldog blocks.
I was trying to save Bradshaw from being disparaged on the internet regarding his issues with this client, but after telling me he would contact him, he failed to do so for weeks. His strongest action was to make the case for not contacting the foundry.
Run, don't walk away from Bradshaw...
If you have a guy like Ray Barton putting out a complaint (see post #17) like that your burnt toast. MO
Any reports on new MP/Callies Hemi blocks?
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