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Bloody clutch problems and then suspension problems

benno440

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life was good after all the problems and re-work I managed to put 3000 miles on the charger.
when on a car run with about 100 cars and my clutch pedal went to the floor, had to tow truck it home 200km ( pretty embarrassing especially cause most of the cars were chebbies and phords)

found my hydraulic slave cylinder on the clutch blew its seals. decided to go back to mechanical.
found some play in my custom front end, noticed my QA1 coilovers had there bushings blown out and destroyed.

all in this time looking for work and struggling with money, managed to scrap some money together to get all the gear to change back to mechanical clutch from brewers (great company)
turned up today, got the gearbox back in, started installing the z bar (very hard to get in, the ball pivot on the gearbox side does not screw all the way in as it bottoms out on the bellhousing)

finally got it in but it does not move very freely, hooked it all up and tried to press the clutch, NO WAY in hell could I depress that pedal so hard.

so my questions are:

is there anything that goes between the throwout bearing lever bracket and the front of the gearbox or does the lever just lever off the front of the gearbox ( or bellhousing I should say)???
should I remove the ball pivot from the bellhousing and shorten the threads to screw it in that bit more to hopefully loosen the z bar up a bit?
I have a Lakewood bellhousing and Kevlar single clutch, use to run hydraulic clutch, but not anymore unless the mechanical does not work.

not waiting for magnumforce to send me new coilovers hopefully (another great company)

semi rant over, looking for advice
 
There should be a pivot ball in the bell housing for the fork to pivot off of, and if the z bar pivot point in the bell housing is not seated and the z bar is tight that needs to be dealt with.
 
As Hemi Rebel said: The Z bar should move freely and the throw-out arm needs to pivot on a ball-stud inside the bell housing. Since you already have a clutch master cylinder might I suggest using a hydraulic throw-out bearing from American Powertrain if the mechanical linkage doesn't work out? I changed my slave cylinder set-up over to the hydraulic T/O bearing and am VERY happy with the result. Good luck to you.
 
linkage photos, not sure if this will help or not, couldn't hurt
 

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There should be a pivot ball in the bell housing for the fork to pivot off of, and if the z bar pivot point in the bell housing is not seated and the z bar is tight that needs to be dealt with.

A pivot ball inside the bellhousing? REALLY??? nooooo i am going to have to pull the gearbox off again FFS. got any pics of this? or a part number maybe

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As Hemi Rebel said: The Z bar should move freely and the throw-out arm needs to pivot on a ball-stud inside the bell housing. Since you already have a clutch master cylinder might I suggest using a hydraulic throw-out bearing from American Powertrain if the mechanical linkage doesn't work out? I changed my slave cylinder set-up over to the hydraulic T/O bearing and am VERY happy with the result. Good luck to you.

Dave, I had an american powertrain hydramax unit in it, with hydraulic throwout, the bastard left me stranded on the side of the road as the seals blew out in it inside the bellhousing. i wanted to make sure i was never stuck on side of road again haha

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linkage photos, not sure if this will help or not, couldn't hurt

thanks bud, any chance a pic of that ball stud inside the bell?
 
Here you go from Brewer's Performance site. It is actually a pivot for the arm verses a ball stud.
 

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I found out that you have to have the right pivot for the clutch fork you are using. There are 3-4 different off-sets from the mounting bolts That really had me stumped before I found that out...A phone call to Brewers taught me that........................MO
 
all working good now, cut some of the thread off the bellhousing ball stud and screws in all the way now, installed the pivot bracket, all good thanks all
 
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