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Blue smoke. Now wtf?

Question: are the valve springs on on my Edelbrock E-Street #5090 heads to stiff for the stamped steel rockers? Edelbrock rates these springs at 280 pounds at .500", and I've been told factory springs, say from a 440 GTX from 1970, would be less than that, and that could have been a cause of failure. I'm still waiting for the parts to come in, which as I've said before, will be coming from Melling. I'd love to hear if people have some thoughts on the added spring pressure of these heads compared to what would have been used 50 years ago.

I have been running a crane spring with the same 280lb rate and 90 closed on mopar stamped rockers. my cam is only .470 xe comp. I have had it together for a couple summers now, no problems rocker , spring wise.
 
And most everyone back in the day was using the 933 with the factory stamped rockers.

:thumbsup:
I know I put that combo of parts in several builds along the way.
 
The rocker wasn't stuck to the shaft, but it seriously gouged the shaft. They very obviously became almost fused together for a short period of time which I assume is why the rocker stopped pivoting, allowing the pushrod to just blast a hole though the rocker. The shaft, rocker, and pushrod are all being replaced.
It is good to know you found your problem. Did you take a picture?
 
I will take some pics of the old rocker, shaft, and pushrod when I get them back from the machine shop. Hoping this week but likely next.
 
Here are pics of the damage on the rocker shaft, rocker and pushrod. I don't actually see a lack of lubrication as the problem. The oil holes in the shaft are clear, at least they are now. Either way, the shaft and rocker are pretty galled up. I have the new pushrod and rocker, but the shaft I have to get a used one from a local Mopar restorer. I'll check for straight, and if it looks good, I'll grab it. By Saturday afternoon I should have it back together.

IMG_20201001_194156.jpg IMG_20201001_194006.jpg IMG_20201001_193944.jpg
 
If you don't see that failure as a lack of lubrication then you need to get your eyes checked...

The pushrod didn't punch through the rocker because the rocker stuck to the shaft...it punched through because the ball socket got hot due to lack of lubrication & the metal got hot enough that the pushrod easily punched through....

That blue/black color shows heat, lots of it... The rocker to either side looks normal, they were operating under the same conditions accept they had oil..
 
If you don't see that failure as a lack of lubrication then you need to get your eyes checked...

The pushrod didn't punch through the rocker because the rocker stuck to the shaft...it punched through because the ball socket got hot due to lack of lubrication & the metal got hot enough that the pushrod easily punched through....

That blue/black color shows heat, lots of it... The rocker to either side looks normal, they were operating under the same conditions accept they had oil..

Well my eyes are just fine, thanks. I'll clarify my comment. At a certain point, friction will overcome lubrication. I found no blockage in the shaft. Also, having spoken to a few professional engine builders, I've been told several stories of failure of modern stamped rockers, and rocker shafts due to poor heat treatment and/or simply poor quality materials. If the heat treatment was poor, the friction would heat the area beyond what the oil could overcome. I'm not ruling out a lack of lubrication, but blue generally means about 650F degrees, and the oil will likely not be effective at those temps. Conventional oil starts to burn at between 350-450F. Also, since the #2 intake rocker is second from the end of the shaft, and the exhaust rocker was fine, oil was certainly getting to the end of the shaft. Either way, I'll be swapping the new pieces in Saturday, and hoping for the best. it snowed locally yesterday, and I really need to get this car in to storage.
 
At the very least when everything is back together and engine running at idle

Or just by
turning the motor over without running

See how much oil is getting up to each individual rocker with the valve covers off or loosely would bee a good idea
 
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Well, it's back together and running. I assembled everything and rechecked the torque on the shaft bolts. 25ft/lbs according to Edelbrock for these heads. I drained the oil and cut the filter open. Nothing in the filter. Well, no metal filings. I turned over the engine and watched oil pump up to the rockers on both sides of the engine. It filled the shaft and made its way to the front of the engine after about three seconds. Everything was getting lots of oil. Did a compression test again on #2 cylinder and it was 175. Would some residual oil in the cylinders giving me a higher than normal reading? It idled nicely and after letting it run for about 15 mins, shut it down and pulled the valve covers again. Fired it up and watched oil making its way to where it should. Valve covers back on and running again. I wonder how long it will take to burn away the residual oil in the cylinders? There's still a bit of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. Also, I want to order new rocker shafts. Can anyone tell me where would be a good place to get quality shafts? Mancini has them. Just curious what you guys would do. Thanks.
 
Going back to your early posts before you found the bad rocker

And looking at your spark plug pictures

Like Wild said - You have oil on your threads and spark plug gasket

Like he mentioned , would bee looking at the intake manifold valley pan - How was the tin pan installed , dry or with paper gaskets

If it continues to burn oil I would start there

Easy way to confirm - Get into the throttle gas pedal under heavy acceleration , low engine vacuum

Then completely let off the gas pedal while accelerating , high engine vacuum , typically it would really start blowing smoke under high engine vacuum (Sucking oil into intake manifold) looking in your rear view mirror

Or pull your carburetor off and look into the intake manifold ports for any oil residue on the bottom of intake floor


Sealed Power Rocker R - 828
Sealed Power Rocker R - 829

Sealed Power Rocker Shaft RS - 612

Looks like these parts are now hard to find
 
Excellent, thanks for the info. I just went for a drive for about 15 minutes, and while I didn't see any more smoke, I didn't really lean into the throttle much. I'll try again tomorrow and do what you said. If I see any more smoke I'll certainly pull the carb and look. I don't know about the manifold gaskets. I'll ask the engine builder. Thanks again.
 
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