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Brake assembly help needed

JetCoronet

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Location
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Quick post. How TF do these come apart?

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You need to wedge the pickle fork here:

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Well, horizontally around the ball joint stud anyway. That will damage the grease boot above it though.
As mentioned, you can hammer the sides of the steering knuckle with a heavy hammer 180 degrees opposite of the side you're hitting. This minimizes deflection and concentrates the impact to the knuckle. This literally squishes the ball joint hole and often spits it out.
Another method is the turnbuckle style tool that pushes against both ball joints (top and bottom) and pushes them apart. The latter is the least damaging to the grease boots which are NOT available by themselves. You have to buy a ball joint to get them.
 
I should have been clearer.
The aftermarket ones I've seen are seals, not boots. The boots are the OEM design and they actually have a metal ring in the edge to positively lock into a recess in the ball joint body. Seals are like umbrellas where they hover over the ball joint or tie rod end but the grease can just ooze right out.
 
No wrecking boots required. Fill the gap, put some good load on the nut and give it one wack.
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I've never had any luck with the hammer technique. I've witnessed guys do it and it works, but not for me. I just can't figure out the technique I guess.

I've actually used a pitman arm removal tool to separate the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint.
 
No wrecking boots required. Fill the gap, put some good load on the nut and give it one wack.
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Im going to try this tomorrow. This seems like a winner. My wife told me to quit for the day though. Blood pressure is too high lol. I needed to replace the boot before i started, so thats not really the issue, the issue is the two pieces have been together since 1969.
 
I've done it with the T bar still in tension but with a floor jack under the LCA.
 
I've never had any luck with the hammer technique. I've witnessed guys do it and it works, but not for me. I just can't figure out the technique I guess.

I've actually used a pitman arm removal tool to separate the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint.
If you hold your lips the wrong way it wont work. I always get it with a hammer. I hate the pickle fork. It just ruins seals.
 
I should have been clearer.
The aftermarket ones I've seen are seals, not boots. The boots are the OEM design and they actually have a metal ring in the edge to positively lock into a recess in the ball joint body. Seals are like umbrellas where they hover over the ball joint or tie rod end but the grease can just ooze right out.

Not Energy Suspension. They offer a kit for the upper and lower.
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Had to press these on. I don't know if its an embedded metal band or hard rubber but they weren't easy going on.
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Im going to try this tomorrow. This seems like a winner. My wife told me to quit for the day though. Blood pressure is too high lol. I needed to replace the boot before i started, so thats not really the issue, the issue is the two pieces have been together since 1969.
Take note that you turn the nut around, so you don't fawk up the castle side! Replace it flush with the stud end. Fill the gap as shown or similar so that you can then turn the nut until it's good and tight putting pressure on the stud and then one good wack.
 
Original since 1969?
Time for New bushings and ball joints.
The upper ball joint is threaded so you will need the proper socket. It can be rented from some auto part stores, even free if yoiu buy your part there.
Perfect example of why you should have a factory sercvice manual.
Free downloads here:
Service Manuals – MyMopar
 
Auto Transport Service
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