Brake booster info help inquiry

[Chryco69]

I purchased a brake booster and master cylinder that was removed from a 1969 Plymouth GTX.

I am having it rebuilt.

I would like to install this brake booster, and eventually front disc brakes, on my 1969 Dodge Coronet that does not have a brake booster and that came equipped with 4 wheel drum.

Will I need a different length brake rod? What issues will I encounter? Where can I purchase these parts?

Thank you!

 

[lewtot184]

you will need a power brake specific backing plate and there is a toggle type linkage that connects the booster to the brake pedal. you may not want to hear this but; i have a '69 coronet r/t with 11" drums and compared to the disc conversion nightmare i went thru with my '65 coronet, there is no way on the planet i'd take the drums off the '69 for discs. my drum brake car stops much better at speed.

 

[tallhair]

you will need a power brake specific backing plate and there is a toggle type linkage that connects the booster to the brake pedal. you may not want to hear this but; i have a '69 coronet r/t with 11" drums and compared to the disc conversion nightmare i went thru with my '65 coronet, there is no way on the planet i'd take the drums off the '69 for discs. my drum brake car stops much better at speed.

what was the nightmare lewt?

 

[lewtot184]

what was the nightmare lewt?

i bought an a-body disc conversion from Right Stuff. avoid these kits like the plague! the calipers were c-body calipers and the pistons were too large. eventually, after some research, i found the correct small piston calipers. the chinese bearings wouldn't fit on the spindle. the master cylinder was for an a-body power disc brake set-up and wouldn't fit up to Right Stuffs brake lines. after replacing parts and tons of time taking things off, bleeding, different master cylinders, different pads, the car stops, but not nearly as good as the drums on my r/t. a very expensive and time consuming education for me and i'm not done playing with this mess.

 

[tallhair]

i bought an a-body disc conversion from Right Stuff. avoid these kits like the plague! the calipers were c-body calipers and the pistons were too large. eventually, after some research, i found the correct small piston calipers. the chinese bearings wouldn't fit on the spindle. the master cylinder was for an a-body power disc brake set-up and wouldn't fit up to Right Stuffs brake lines. after replacing parts and tons of time taking things off, bleeding, different master cylinders, different pads, the car stops, but not nearly as good as the drums on my r/t. a very expensive and time consuming education for me and i'm not done playing with this mess.

Thanks for sharing your experience lewt!

 

[kb67mopar]

I hate to hear that! I haven't used a stock master cylinder but I have a-body front disks with a power booster (late model booster) and it stops like a wet dream.

 

[lewtot184]

I hate to hear that! I haven't used a stock master cylinder but I have a-body front disks with a power booster (late model booster) and it stops like a wet dream.

i think the key to all this is to make sure you have parts that are coordinated to work with each other. one misfit screws up the way the system should work. do your homework/research and keep in mind that a lot of kits are just parts thrown together to make a package and money for the vendor. also, for those looking to change to discs keep in mind that the auto manufacturers spent untold millions of dollars in R@D to come up with safe coordinated packages. to get modern day brake performance in our old dinosaurs probably isn't going to happen for a few hundred bucks. if i were to do it again i'd probably buy something like a Wilwood basic conversion and avoid all the spindle changes and associated cost and time.

 

[kb67mopar]

i think the key to all this is to make sure you have parts that are coordinated to work with each other. one misfit screws up the way the system should work. do your homework/research and keep in mind that a lot of kits are just parts thrown together to make a package and money for the vendor. also, for those looking to change to discs keep in mind that the auto manufacturers spent untold millions of dollars in R@D to come up with safe coordinated packages. to get modern day brake performance in our old dinosaurs probably isn't going to happen for a few hundred bucks. if i were to do it again i'd probably buy something like a Wilwood basic conversion and avoid all the spindle changes and associated cost and time.

1998 Jeep grand Cherokee booster, A body front brakes, 98 GC rear disks, Summit proportional valve, new lines..

I think total I spent about $530 and have all new calipers and pads, new lines etc...just takes a little time to modify the firewall bracket, brake pedal and drill holes.

 

[lewtot184]

1998 Jeep grand Cherokee booster, A body front brakes, 98 GC rear disks, Summit proportional valve, new lines..

I think total I spent about $530 and have all new calipers and pads, new lines etc...just takes a little time to modify the firewall bracket, brake pedal and drill holes.

that sounds great! i spent around $650 with Right Junk, plus had to buy a new master cylinder, calipers, pads, alignment. i'll bet i'm close to $900 for a marginal set-up. a friend of mine did the Wilwood kit, think he payed around $450 and had to buy a master cylinder, and was completly satisfied.

 

[kb67mopar]

that sounds great! i spent around $650 with Right Junk, plus had to buy a new master cylinder, calipers, pads, alignment. i'll bet i'm close to $900 for a marginal set-up. a friend of mine did the Wilwood kit, think he payed around $450 and had to buy a master cylinder, and was completly satisfied.

Most of my cost was making up my custom rear disk setup. To do just the power master cylinder I think I spent $60, 30 from the salvage yard and 30 for the proportioning valve. Brake lines were $50 and I just bought new calipers and pads for the front since my car already had the brackets and rotors on it. It stops just as good as my Ram.