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Brake Power Booster Question... suggestions?

JHyatt14

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Location
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I have a problem with a new power brake boost system I put in. I ordered a new front disc brake conversion kit for my 69 Charger. It's all installed and now, due to the erratic cam I have in the motor, it is unable to draw any vaccum from the motor because the cam is taking it. I REALLY do not want to have to order a $800 Hyrdoboost system considering I just spent $800 on the inital conversion. Any tips or suggestions on how to get vaccum to the booster? Right now when the car is running the pedal is hard, there is no give to it. Of course this is because there is no vaccum getting to the booster. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks. -Jim
 
Electronic vacuum canister!!
 
How many inches of vacuum do you have? Run as much timing and rpm(by adjusting fuel and air mixture screws and idle screw).As you can.
 
Here's what I run under my battery tray:

evp.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/cvr-electric-vacuum-pumps

Brakes work great.
 
Prop what kind of set up are you running that in? Engine/cam ?
 
I'm running a 512 Stroker Jhyatt14. Cam is a solid flat tappet. Duration at 050 inch Lift:244 int./252 exh, 0.520 int./0.540 exh Lobe separation 110. Best engine HG is 8-9 tops. Canister wasn't going to cut it.
 
You may need a vacuum reservoir and a check valve if not you must run a separate vacuum pump either belt driven or electrical
 
The electric vacuum pump is $310. I just ended up buying the hydraulic brake boost kit with new master cylinder for $700. I will pull off the current brake booster and master cylinder to sell that as a unit. Hopefully I can get back some of the difference. I'm going to put up a bunch of things for sale once my build is over. I'll just include the booster / master cylinder package in these items. No point in skimping now. Thanks for the advice guys.
 
Check out Wilwoods electric master cylinder. Or do away from the power brakes and go manual. Don't need power brakes anyway.
 
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