padam
Well-Known Member
1973 Dodge Charger Rally
Originally 318 Auto
Now 413 4 Speed
Brakes were power disk front,drum rear
Changed from power to manual.
Ordered adapter and push rod from Dr Diff
Ordered master cylinder from amazon Raybestos MC39178
This was a mod Ive wanted to make for quite some time.
Reasons were to save weight and gain room in engine compartment.
Also poor braking at idle due to large cam, and low pedal making heal and toe difficult.
I hate working in the interior, and I ******* hate working under the dash. That being said I got the job done.
So there were a few issues:
Dr diff Plate came with stainless hardware, flat heads and button heads.
I don't like either so I ditched them in favor of alloy steel flat heads and socket head cap screws.
The Heim joint supplied needed a lot of clearance on the brake pedal side. Unfortunately, I didn't realize his and thought I would have to move the brake pedal to the right. I took the pedals out to do this but I don't think I needed to. Only the heim joint needed modified.
I wanted to retain the reinforcement plate, so I had to modify it for the lower mounting position of the master cylinder. Then I had to make a plate to cover the original hole.
Took it for a drive today. It stops good. Pedal is a little soft at first, but then firms up.I think it needs bled some. I like the pedal height.
Stops plenty good for a drag car, but for street it needs some work.
Originally 318 Auto
Now 413 4 Speed
Brakes were power disk front,drum rear
Changed from power to manual.
Ordered adapter and push rod from Dr Diff
Ordered master cylinder from amazon Raybestos MC39178
This was a mod Ive wanted to make for quite some time.
Reasons were to save weight and gain room in engine compartment.
Also poor braking at idle due to large cam, and low pedal making heal and toe difficult.
I hate working in the interior, and I ******* hate working under the dash. That being said I got the job done.
So there were a few issues:
Dr diff Plate came with stainless hardware, flat heads and button heads.
I don't like either so I ditched them in favor of alloy steel flat heads and socket head cap screws.
The Heim joint supplied needed a lot of clearance on the brake pedal side. Unfortunately, I didn't realize his and thought I would have to move the brake pedal to the right. I took the pedals out to do this but I don't think I needed to. Only the heim joint needed modified.
I wanted to retain the reinforcement plate, so I had to modify it for the lower mounting position of the master cylinder. Then I had to make a plate to cover the original hole.
Took it for a drive today. It stops good. Pedal is a little soft at first, but then firms up.I think it needs bled some. I like the pedal height.
Stops plenty good for a drag car, but for street it needs some work.
