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Brazing and soldering aluminum

The " Not Exactly Cheap" tool you linked above can make the SAE O ring fitting (Bubble)
 
I almost bought one of those the other day at the welding shop. All of theirs were labeled PROPANE ONLY and my understanding is that I’m supposed to use Map/Pro gas because of the hotter flame.
 

The " Not Exactly Cheap" tool you linked above can make the SAE O ring fitting (Bubble)

If the flares made by those tool kits are different from the flares in the rest of these lines, I wouldn’t care. I could reflare as many lines as needed.
I’m not against admitting that the soldering idea is a crash and burn if flaring is a better idea.
I still think that with some tutoring or guidance, I could get good at this.
Re-flaring is great but it doesn’t completely replace soldering. What if I wanted a fitting with a pressure port on a specific spot?
This 45 degree elbow has the low side port aimed at the valve cover.

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I’d rather have it facing UP. Now maybe a fitting is available that does have that but what if it doesn’t? It would be great to have the ability to put the port where I want it.
 
Funny, I intentionally position the service ports so they aren't visually obvious as long as they are still accessible... I also try to use black caps cause the red & blue caps grab your attention...
 
Funny, I intentionally position the service ports so they aren't visually obvious as long as they are still accessible... I also try to use black caps cause the red & blue caps grab your attention...
I was thinking that as well, but don't know how often you guys are pumping up your A/C's
 
Since I've been having trouble with these torches, I started looking at videos....


 
I almost bought one of those the other day at the welding shop. All of theirs were labeled PROPANE ONLY and my understanding is that I’m supposed to use Map/Pro gas because of the hotter flame.
Although Map/Pro touts a better heat transfer, the actual temperature is not much more than propane; 2100 (f) degrees vs. 2000 degrees. Both will heat aluminum well past the melting point.

If you do go with the aluminum solder route, you need even less heat - not much over the melting point of the aluminum solder which, depending on the alloy, is generally between 750-840 degrees. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation on the type of flux to use, which should have an ideal useable temperature close to the solder melting point.

Above all, cleanliness. Do not use a regular wire brush which will contaminate the aluminum, instead use a stainless steel brush or non-metallic sandpaper to do the joint cleaning.
 
possible solution to inverting the mapp can .in the pic the hose is a camping accessory found many stores . walmart and such .

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hose has not male and female small propane tank fittings . available in various lengths….

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I second the Stainless brush. For my TIG welding, I have three wood handled Stainless toothbrush size units. On each handle I write what metal they are for. Steel, Stainless or Aluminum. They can't be cross used as you'll contaminate the weld with particles that are not the material you're welding.
 
I’m going to set this idea aside for now. I’m having trouble and I don’t know what I am doing wrong.
I know that sometimes you can make moves (without even knowing) that are actually causing more problems and keeping you from getting good results.
I tried cleaning these torch nozzles and it helped a little. I got one to stay lit but I couldn’t get the tubing hot enough to draw in the solder.
I need to have an experienced person look at my torches and tubes and guide me through it.
I still think that I can do this but I’m probably doing something wrong, maybe something simple, who knows.
Thanks to all that chimed in.
 
Can you use copper tubing & silver solder
I don't know.
Part of the reason for my interest in this was for the sake of appearance. The aluminum lines are a bright gray/silver color. Copper wouldn't look the same.
If all that mattered was function, copper line may be fine.
Thanks for the idea though.
 
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