451Mopar
Well-Known Member
Budget build? What is the Budget?
Is this track only car?
If only racing, what class or classes are you considering running as the rules may limit what you can do?
If bracket racing on a tight budget, I would first spend money on good tires, suspension and brakes.
You will also want to start adding safety equipment like a driveshaft loop at a minimum.
Wining at bracket racing is about consistency.
Do the opposite of what I did.
I threw a fairly expensive high HP engine in my near stock '71 Charger that weighs over #4,000. Really too much engine for the car.
Make the car light weight, it will go faster and be easier on parts.
I would likely use the smaller 318 T-Bars and adjustable Viking shocks on the front.
Haven't really looked into rear suspension for a stick car, but have friends that like the Calvert Caltracks with the MonoLeaf springs. Likely use adjustable Viking shocks in the rear also.
Disk brakes up front, with line lock so you can do burnout to clean the race tires. Hold the car while staging, and slow down at the top end.
If the track/class allows two-step rev-limiters, you can add a hydraulic pressure window switch in the brake line to release the two-step at launch to really get consistent reaction times. The class I run in banned these setups as the guys who were using them kept winning.
Figure where you want to be with the performance, and build the car for that. Engine (and transmission) parts and choices keep changing, and what might be a hot setup today, might be old news in a year or two.
Is this track only car?
If only racing, what class or classes are you considering running as the rules may limit what you can do?
If bracket racing on a tight budget, I would first spend money on good tires, suspension and brakes.
You will also want to start adding safety equipment like a driveshaft loop at a minimum.
Wining at bracket racing is about consistency.
Do the opposite of what I did.
I threw a fairly expensive high HP engine in my near stock '71 Charger that weighs over #4,000. Really too much engine for the car.
Make the car light weight, it will go faster and be easier on parts.
I would likely use the smaller 318 T-Bars and adjustable Viking shocks on the front.
Haven't really looked into rear suspension for a stick car, but have friends that like the Calvert Caltracks with the MonoLeaf springs. Likely use adjustable Viking shocks in the rear also.
Disk brakes up front, with line lock so you can do burnout to clean the race tires. Hold the car while staging, and slow down at the top end.
If the track/class allows two-step rev-limiters, you can add a hydraulic pressure window switch in the brake line to release the two-step at launch to really get consistent reaction times. The class I run in banned these setups as the guys who were using them kept winning.
Figure where you want to be with the performance, and build the car for that. Engine (and transmission) parts and choices keep changing, and what might be a hot setup today, might be old news in a year or two.
He has 40-more cubes, that should make up the difference.
