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BURNOUTS, donuts and general showing off? Proper procedure??

HAHNAGON

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9:12 AM
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Location
MOUNT VERNON, IN 47620
Next week me and my 70 Charger will be filming a commercial for the local dodge dealership. The script calls for burnouts and donuts. They're trying to sell tires. My concern is proper procedure without damaging anything or at least without damaging the transmission. Any advice is welcome. It's a recently restored 70 charger, 383/727/8 3/4. Very mild cam, edelbrock intake and avs2 carb, transgo shift kit, front and rear sway bars, qa1 arms, strut rods, shocks, 3.55, etc just to give an idea. Nice solid car. Finally dialed everything in(carb, kickdown, timing, alignment, etc)and runs strong. It just lacks that initial "punch" when you stab it from a stop.
Let's get back to my issue......... I do have disc all around with wilwood adjustable prop valve that has been turned down. I cannot burnout from a stop in drive and I'm afraid to start in a lower gear because of the horror stories. What do I need to do?
 
Wet the pavement, add a little bleach. The water will let the tires spin easily and the bleach will create a nice white smoke. Are they paying you to abuse your car?
 
Remember that bleach is very corrosive. Water will do it, skip the bleach.
 
Next week me and my 70 Charger will be filming a commercial for the local dodge dealership. The script calls for burnouts and donuts. They're trying to sell tires. My concern is proper procedure without damaging anything or at least without damaging the transmission. Any advice is welcome. It's a recently restored 70 charger, 383/727/8 3/4. Very mild cam, edelbrock intake and avs2 carb, transgo shift kit, front and rear sway bars, qa1 arms, strut rods, shocks, 3.55, etc just to give an idea. Nice solid car. Finally dialed everything in(carb, kickdown, timing, alignment, etc)and runs strong. It just lacks that initial "punch" when you stab it from a stop.
Let's get back to my issue......... I do have disc all around with wilwood adjustable prop valve that has been turned down. I cannot burnout from a stop in drive and I'm afraid to start in a lower gear because of the horror stories. What do I need to do?
Let's go over this one last time. Start in first, go to second, go to third, if it will pull in 3rd.
That's safe and fine. It's just doing a burnout in D that's not as safe.
Chuck a small vice grip on the rear line for home made line lock
 
Chuck a small vice grip on the rear line for home made line lock
That’s a good idea. I was thinking it would be if he had a line lock, but didn’t know a way to disable the rear brakes. Is there soft lines on rear drum brakes? I thought the rears were all hard lines.
 
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I would not want to “learn burnouts under those conditions. Be careful. With my manual shift, I just use line lock, put it in second and fry away.
 
That’s a good idea. I was thinking it would be if he had a line lock, but didn’t know a way to disable the rear brakes. Is there soft lines I rear drum brakes? I thought the rears were all hard lines.
Yes the rubber line goes from the diff to the floor pan. Has to be there for diff movement
 
Yes the rubber line goes from the diff to the floor pan. Has to be there for diff movement
That’s strange. My car has been at the shop since August when I purchased it getting finishing touches done. The first thing they noticed was a caliber sticking on the front. Did complete brakes rotors bearings and calipers on front. Still sticking afterwords. Rubber lines dummies. So they replaced the rubber lines on the front, and all good. I asked them to inspect the back drums really good and replace rubber lines there too. They said back drums were good and there were no rubber lines in the back. 74 Roadrunner. I posted a question about this in another thread so as to not hijack this one.

 
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Something is wrong if it won't spin the tires with 3.55's but never mind that for this deal. Wet the pavement and you'll be fine, upshift as said above
 
If it won't melt the tires from a stand still I don't think it's going to keep smoking them in 2nd let alone 3rd. You might want to go find a remote location and try experimenting a little. I would think loading it up a bit on the convertor in first and letting go of the brakes while putting the throttle to the floor and then feather your accelerator to keep it under what you feel your upper RPM's are should work. Once you get it spinning in a doughnut you will lose your tires grip and it should be a fun time.
 
Next week me and my 70 Charger will be filming a commercial for the local dodge dealership. The script calls for burnouts and donuts. They're trying to sell tires. My concern is proper procedure without damaging anything or at least without damaging the transmission. Any advice is welcome. It's a recently restored 70 charger, 383/727/8 3/4. Very mild cam, edelbrock intake and avs2 carb, transgo shift kit, front and rear sway bars, qa1 arms, strut rods, shocks, 3.55, etc just to give an idea. Nice solid car. Finally dialed everything in(carb, kickdown, timing, alignment, etc)and runs strong. It just lacks that initial "punch" when you stab it from a stop.
Let's get back to my issue......... I do have disc all around with wilwood adjustable prop valve that has been turned down. I cannot burnout from a stop in drive and I'm afraid to start in a lower gear because of the horror stories. What do I need to do?
Perhaps the best thing to do is tell "the local Dodge dealership" to "go pound sand".....and you'll do burnouts with one of their showroom cars.....why abuse your car? Are they paying you? Likely it is a violation of your insurance. Are you signing a liability document absolving them on any/all issues? Who pays for breakage or damage?? It doesn't matter how your vehicle is configured.......one of their cars will be just fine.....personally, a stupid thing to do......or it is an ego thing?? Just my opinion......
BOB RENTON
 
Freshly restored car?
I think I would show up for some photos and skip the burnouts.
Just watch Youtube for some of the embarassing things that can go wrong.

I did about 140 burnouts at the drag strip last year with no trouble, then on about #141 I had some complications, over reved it and threw a pushrod. I'm lucky thats all that went wrong.
 
That’s strange. My car has been at the shop since August when I purchased it getting finishing touches done. The first thing they noticed was a caliber sticking on the front. Did complete brakes rotors bearings and calipers on front. Still sticking afterwords. Rubber lines dummies. So they replaced the rubber lines on the front, and all good. I asked them to inspect the back drums really good and replace rubber lines there too. They said back drums were good and there were no rubber lines in the back. 74 Roadrunner.
Like mentioned above. There is one rubber line attached to the rear housing and is "Y"d off to the metal lines on the housing... The vent bolt holds it in the housing.

1742686386187.png
 
Like mentioned above. There is one rubber line attached to the rear housing and is "Y"d off to the metal lines on the housing... The vent bolt holds it in the housing.

View attachment 1824880
Do they have a flexible line with a steel braided sleeve? Maybe that's where the no rubber line thing came from? Just a guess.
 
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