• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

By Passing AmpMeter ?

wedge5

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:57 AM
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
902
Reaction score
69
Location
Central IL
Ok I listed this in the electrical section and didn't really get a lot of feed back besides 1 good one. I am going to listed it here to see whatelse comes up.

I want to by pass my amp meter so I don't have to worry about it.
This is the diagram I got from the electrical section. Thanks Black63

amp-ga27.jpg


Now my 1st question is: I have my Alt wire going to the master cut off switch so do I need to keep the wire going from the splice to the alt. bulkhead? I was thinking about eliminating that wire to the bulkhead because isn't that still hot when the power is on? Technical that wire is useless now that I have my alt wire to the M/C switch.

My 2nd question: In the diagram it shows that I need to join the 2 wires in the engine bay to a 16ga fusable link. Why would I want to upgrade the power wires to handle the power output and not melt ;then downgrade them into a 16ga wire? I know there is a fuse there but wouldn't it be better to put a fuse in line with my new wires? As of now I don't have the alt bulkhead wire going to the starter relay. Do I need to hook this back up?

This is my set up now:
amp-ga27-1-1.jpg



I am getting ready to put the dash back in so I would like to get this handled while I can get to the wires easily
 
That drawing is from madelectric. Works well. Question one. You shouldn't need the sly to bulkhead or your cutoff won't work. It will continue to run off the alt. The 16 gauge splice protects your wiring as the link will burn before the wire is damaged. I used this with my one wire alt and eliminated my ballast and regulator.as the alt is internal regulated. Just had to hook gin 1 and 2 together toy msd box trigger wire.
 
I,m doing the same thing as we speak...I got the one main from the altenator done...Now the dash...dare devil is correct...
Petty blue 67 GTX
 
Sometimes I get lost with other peoples replies SO:

Are you telling me to follow graph 1 but instead of running the Alt. wire to the starter relay run it to the M/C switch and all will be right with the world. Turn switch off and Car dies per NHRA rules, Alt. charges properly and Amp meter is by-passed?

Where do I get a 16ga fusable link? What size fuse goes in it?
 
Where do I get a 16ga fusable link? What size fuse goes in it?

A fusible link is a wire that is designed to act as a fuse. It will melt before the wiring that it is protecting, thus a smaller gauge "fusible link" is used. There is no visual fuse to it. Once it melts down, you buy a new one to replace it. Any auto parts should have all available.
 
Where does other side of cut off switch go?
I think switch should go between battery + and starter relay +. When switch OFF, all current is OFF.
If you are trying to eliminate the possible "dash fire", run alternator output to starter relay + terminal. That way battery charging will go from alt. to relay +, relay + to battery. No high current thru Bulkhead black wire to ignition switch, lighting, etc. then to AMP gauge, thru gauge, to red wire, thru bulkhead to starter relay +, to battery for charging. If you bypass your amp gauge, you still need to connect the red wire to the black wire as this is now the path to feed the ignition sw, lights, etc. You could replace the AMP gauge with a DC Volt gauge and it would read voltage conditions. You should, must, have a fusible link on all wires that leave the starter relay + terminal, or you risk whatever wire that is to melt any where it finds its weakest point..most of the time its hole length if not protected at feed point.

Hope this helps
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top