Bypass dome light switch? 1969 GTX

[miller]

I'm blaming Mexican Duralast on this one!!!

Yeah! No wonder I fix my own crap.

Sounds like you've got it worried. One wire at a time, man...about all you can do. Mine's along the same line. Pretty sure my probs were at the fuse box. Blaming that damn beer guzzling electrician (finger at my own chest), for hooking one wire wrong, besides fuse holders not clean enough.

 

[miller]

Now when I go to high beams it shorts out and the new high beam switch gets hot.

That sounds like a contact, or grounding issue.

 

[threewood]

I "think" it may be the ignition switch after thinking about it. It is acting like the key isn't on, so I ordered a new one as the old one feels wore out.

The connection on the floor dimmer was loose so that is an issue. I dhould receive a new headlight switch today as well.

 

[threewood]

That sounds like a contact, or grounding issue.

I pulled the 3 wires from the connector and tightened the female spade connectors and no more issues. Brights work fine now.

Also, my issue was the ignition switch. The red wire was put into the wrong place so it was feeding nothing. Stupid stuff to make me pull my hair out. It works now with everything hooked up.

 

[miller]

Alright!

 

[440+6]

Glad you found it!

 

[Cranky]

Electrical stuff drives me nuts plus I'm shade blind.....not a good thing with old faded wiring!

 

[threewood]

Back at it! Hit the high beams, ammeter goes full neg. I checked the connections, front to back, bulkhead, at the floor switch and headlight switch. swapped in a new floor dimmer and new headlight switch....no change. Low beams work fine, parking lights work fine.

 

[miller]

On your's, you've got three plug-ins, at the firewall block under the hood. One of them is the headlight harness...pull it at the firewall block, and see what happens. Just looking for a draw at the ammeter. If it's still there, problem is inside the cab (dash) headlight wiring. If no draw...under the hood.
Just start separating things, wiring from bulbs, switches, to get it narrowed down. Only thing I can think of, besides a bad switch. Sounds like you've covered that.

 

[threewood]

On your's, you've got three plug-ins, at the firewall block under the hood. One of them is the headlight harness...pull it at the firewall block, and see what happens. Just looking for a draw at the ammeter. If it's still there, problem is inside the cab (dash) headlight wiring. If no draw...under the hood.
Just start separating things, wiring from bulbs, switches, to get it narrowed down. Only thing I can think of, besides a bad switch. Sounds like you've covered that.

I pulled the harness and it still pegs the ammeter to the left. Three wires to deal with. Red and Violet from the lights and the light green from floor dimmer to headlight switch. I am going to run new ones and see if they are an issue.
I am also going to start the MAD ammeter bypass once my fusible links get here. I need to pull the front seat again to get under the dash.

 

[threewood]

On your's, you've got three plug-ins, at the firewall block under the hood. One of them is the headlight harness...pull it at the firewall block, and see what happens. Just looking for a draw at the ammeter. If it's still there, problem is inside the cab (dash) headlight wiring. If no draw...under the hood.
Just start separating things, wiring from bulbs, switches, to get it narrowed down. Only thing I can think of, besides a bad switch. Sounds like you've covered that.

I found the issue......ammeter. After checking the connections in the car for the red, violet and light green I bypassed the gauge (bolted the wires together) and no issue with the lights anymore. I am still going to do the MAD Electric upgrade to keep it reliable. Thanks for all the help.