cam button/ bolts question

[furyus]

My new question is: On my 505 stroker. I'm running a hydraulic roller cam. I fit the cam button, but the 3 cam bolt heads are too tall, and hit the timing cover.
Is there a shorter 12 point head than the 244-1001 I have now? I called ARP, and they were able to find thinner washers, but not a shorter head. What have you roller cam guys done for this? TIA

 

[Beekeeper]

I use the Teflon roller button and just notch the button for clearance on the three bolt heads i use the same ARP cam bolts with no problem. Are you using a cam button that’s attached to the timing cover? The attached pic is the
setup and works with a stock timing cover.

 

[33 IMP]

Bench grinder.

 

[beanhead]

Shaving the cam bolts is standard operating procedure most of the time....
I just hit them with a grinder until the heads are low enough to clear (and that's with a solid FT cam).

 

[furyus]

I'm using a Comp Cams button, that looks like yours. It is the stock timing cover. I notched the button to clear the diameter of the bolts, and washers, but they are too tall. ARP said I could run it without the washers, as long as the bolts seat flat, or chamfer the cam gear if necessary. I can grind the bolt heads down too, but I'm looking for a better solution. Are you using the washers that came with the bolts?

 

[furyus]

Shaving the cam bolts is standard operating procedure most of the time....
I just hit them with a grinder until the heads are low enough to clear (and that's with a solid FT cam).

Do you use the washers that came in the kit, or did you use thinner washers?

 

[Beekeeper]

I'm using a Comp Cams button, that looks like yours. It is the stock timing cover. I notched the button to clear the diameter of the bolts, and washers, but they are too tall. ARP said I could run it without the washers, as long as the bolts seat flat, or chamfer the cam gear if necessary. I can grind the bolt heads down too, but I'm looking for a better solution. Are you using the washers that came with the bolts?

No I didn’t use the washers just loctite and torqued appropriately. The button sticks out a good bit more than the bolt heads so not sure what’s up.

 

[gkent]

Button-head cap screws.

You don't need anything fancy or high strength for these , the cam pin and the cam itself keep the sprocket situated - the bolts merely secure it and are fairly low torqued.

 

[furyus]

Button-head cap screws.

You don't need anything fancy or high strength for these , the cam pin and the cam itself keep the sprocket situated - the bolts merely secure it and are fairly low torqued.

View attachment 1346040

The torque specs are 45 pounds for the ARP bolts. I wonder how much you could torque those button heads.

 

[beanhead]

I like flange-head bolts myself....no need for a washer.

Do you use the washers that came in the kit, or did you use thinner washers?

 

[gkent]

The torque specs are 45 pounds for the ARP bolts. I wonder how much you could torque those button heads.

I don't know why you'd need ARP bolts for that application - especially with the grief they're causing you. Stock torque spec for a single-bolt cam is only 35 ft lbs - why they'd call for 45 on three bolts is beyond me !! Regardless, you'd have no problem torquing those buttonheads to 45 - they are a high grade bolt.

 

[33 IMP]

I don't know why you'd need ARP bolts for that application - especially with the grief they're causing you. Stock torque spec for a single-bolt cam is only 35 ft lbs - why they'd call for 45 on three bolts is beyond me !! Regardless, you'd have no problem torquing those buttonheads to 45 - they are a high grade bolt.

Agree. The button heads are grade eight, more than good enough for your app. Just use a quality driver/socket.

 

[furyus]

I ordered thinner washers from Summit. They are. 027 thinner than the washers that came with the bolts. If they don't work, I will do the button heads. That 45 ft lbs is scary to me too. But that's what the instructions said.

 

[65Fury440]

I just ran across this thread, did you get this situation rectified?

 

[dvw]

Button-head cap screws.

You don't need anything fancy or high strength for these , the cam pin and the cam itself keep the sprocket situated - the bolts merely secure it and are fairly low torqued.

View attachment 1346040

The cam pin is for alignment only. If you were relying on it to drive the cam it would sheer. Why do you think they went to 3 bolt cams? Just like a wheel. It is clamp load that drives the part. Not the studs or pin. The correct solution would be to thin the bolt heads. You might be able to loose the washers, but? Look at the underside of the bolt head. If it's radiused and the cam gear hole has a square sharp lip they could interfere. In my opinion thining the bolt heads a touch is the best way.
Doug

 

[furyus]

I ended up removing the washers, and shaving the bolt heads down. I made sure that the bolts would sit flush on the cam gear. Thanks for all the help.

 

[BriceRoad]

Thank you very much for the information. I am having the same problem with the bolts hitting the timing cover. I will carefully shave them down.