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Can it be saved

Well, i ended up getting the 413 industrial stripped, she had a double roller timing chain in her, dished pistons, a forged crank and ly rods, looks like she will clean up, looks like a good heavy duty casted block, i want to get rid of all the industrial stuff if somebody can use it, also found one bent rod in her,

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I'd have it sonic checked to see if it'll go to a standard 440 bore. If it will, SCORE.
If not, I'd bore it to 4.250, get some custom stroker pistons, put a 4.25 crank in it.... and have some fun!
 
That should be a very good block. Here is some info from 440 source. You can see more by going to the 440 source website.
For most applications, this block was used for their "Heavy duty truck or industrial 413" engine. This is the setup with the huge (5 bolt) water pump and housing and very large cylinder heads. These engines were used in lots of motorhomes, large (semi) type trucks and other industrial applications such as generators, pumps, etc. The water jacket cores (or what could be considered the "outer walls" of the cylinders) from these blocks were essentially those from a 440 engine. 413 bore size is about 140 thousands smaller than a 440, making these blocks essentially an "underbored" 440 from the factory. This results in the cylinder walls usually being over .400" thick on these engines. This means that these blocks can be bored out to a 440 size, and used as a 440. Once this is done, it results in standard thickness cylinder walls of .250" (quarter inch) thick, which is Chrysler's standard specification for cylinder wall thickness.

Although the vast majority of these seem to have been made into 413's we have seen some of these made into 426's from the factory (often in boats for marine applications) and VERY rare examples where Chrysler themselves assembled and stamped these as a regular 440 at Trenton. This may have been due to a shortage of standard 440 blocks, or the need to use up "old" inventory, or some other similar "keep the line running" type of reason.

Unfortunately, the internal main webbing and main cap setup on these is identical to a standard 440, not any thicker. This was a missed opportunity. Imagine if Chrysler would have increased the main webbing thickness on these, similar to how they did on the early "230" casting 400 block, and maybe even gone with the cross bolt main capped Hemi type setup. We would have had "somewhat" plentiful 1000 horsepower capable factory "440" blocks available.

Interestingly, some early examples of these actually do have the "cross bolt" bosses cast into them, indicating that they were thinking of doing this, but never went ahead with it. Or they may have been cast only to use in the super stock programs. But these early examples are extremely rare. It is likely only one or maybe a few early production runs ended up with the cross bolt bosses. We've had hundreds of these blocks (most all out of motorhome applications from the late 60's/Early 70's), and none have ever had the cross bolt bosses. Here is a picture of the cross bolt bosses shown below:
 
You might try Evaporust in the cylinders. The block might be able to be saved, but what would you have then? I was looking for a junk block for a project the other day. I called a friend to see if he had one. He said he had some 413 blocks. I said I hate to use a good block. He said nobody is going to build a 413.
He must be from Arkansas …..
 
I'd be looking closely at the cylinder with the bent rod. They don't bend by themselves. If it hydro locked? What caused it?
Doug
 
There is no way I would even try to save that block. When I have a nasty block like that I just use a cutting torch on the connecting rods and cut the beams in half.

Easiest way to remove the crankshaft on one that bad.

Tom
 
Yes, use marvel mystery oil, trans fluid, etc, to let sit in the cylinders and dissolve the rust. I have used a small sledge and a chisel to get the pistons out, break them up. If it is a std bore, you can go up to .060 or so to clean up the bores. jmho.

I cant remember the name , but there is a rust remover that comes in a yellow spray can that absolutely destroys rust ...
 
This video isn’t too far off topic but is worth a watch if you have some time. It’s about a guy who has an engine in an old 1940’s Jeep that’s been exposed to the elements with the head off.

It WILL Run.
 
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