can the 440 steel crank be used in a 383 magnum block

[moparjohnny]

i have a crank from a 440.but i want to use a 383 block in my roadrunner.

 

[kidmopar]

yes but u have to grind the mains and counterweights down, the mains are smaller on a 383, look at muscle motors website for the 383 combo they have. its cheaper in the long run to buy the stroker kit, i tried it with a 400 block. it wasnt cheap after all the machine work, balancing etc...

 

[Badvert65]

You either need to bore the main journals of the block to the 440 crank size or turn the crank main journals down to the 383 size. It isn't a 'drop in' kind of thing. You will need pistons for that longer stroke combo as well.

 

[Cranky]

I've always heard that it's best to machine the crank to fit the block and not vice versa. The crank is plenty strong to machine it down but you want to keep as much meat in the block as possible. Also, if you ever want to go back to a standard stroke, you can if the block mains were not bored.

 

[wedge69]

The price of a stroker is ALOT cheaper than this set up. Just saying that years ago before everyone made a kit it was the way to go ! But these days ??

 

[Cranky]

What are your plans for this engine? If I'm going to spend the money on a stroker setup, I'm going for the most cubes for the buck and that happens with the 400 block. If this is going to be a mild street torque monster, why not just offset grind a 440 crank to make 470 cubes using a 440 block or go for the gusto and do the same using a 400 block and end up with a few more cubes?

 

[Funship32]

i have a crank from a 440.but i want to use a 383 block in my roadrunner.

I've read the same question in MA mag and they recommend boring the block to accept the crank, not the other way around.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Yes, the 440 crank will fit AFTER the counterweights are cut down .130" on the radius and the mains made to fit. You will need to check the clearance of the counterweights to the block, right where the main saddle machined surface meets the as cast area near the bottom of the cylinder bore. Also check the rod bolt to bottom of cylinder clearance. If I was going to cut a crank again I would make a generous chamfer on the main cap side of the counterweights or just knife edge it. But no big deal to grind the block a little for clearance.

Regarding the main journals. Plenty of people have cut the crank to the B engine size mains and have good results, but if I were to do it again I'd cut the block. Either way the amount removed is pretty small (~.060" on the diameter) but knowing what I know about high speed spinning parts I'd leave the crank alone. The block is much more rigid than the crank so I'd cut the block, even that the process of doing so is much more involved and more expensive.

 

[Budnicks]

I've done many a 383/strokers, 3.75" 440 crank turned & counter weights turned down to 7.200" max diameter {7.120" is even better, lighter & easier to balance, better throttle response}, a 3.950" offset ground 413-426-440 crank, a 4.15" & a 4.25", all make great power, from the 0.030" 4.280" bore 3.750" stroke 431ci, to the 4.250" stroker 0.060" over 4.310" bore 496ci stroker in a 383 block, the 400 Block will give you more CI's, larger bore 4.34" to begin with 451ci & up... you really need a competent machinist or buy a kit with all the parts, the pistons on the 383/Strokers are the most pricey parts, because usually they are customs, you can get a 383 Platinum H-Beam or I-Beam rod, 383/stroker kit {or others} 100% Made In The USA from www.440source.com or from Mancini Racing {Eagle Stroker kit}, both for a relatively reasonable price... pretty costly sourcing it all out otherwise... using a block girdle & some quality hardware {nuts, washers, bolts, studs etc., are also a really good idea}... good luck what ever you decide

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, the 440 crank will fit AFTER the counterweights are cut down .130" on the radius and the mains made to fit. You will need to check the clearance of the counterweights to the block, right where the main saddle machined surface meets the as cast area near the bottom of the cylinder bore. Also check the rod bolt to bottom of cylinder clearance. If I was going to cut a crank again I would make a generous chamfer on the main cap side of the counterweights or just knife edge it. But no big deal to grind the block a little for clearance.

Regarding the main journals. Plenty of people have cut the crank to the B engine size mains and have good results, but if I were to do it again I'd cut the block. Either way the amount removed is pretty small (~.060" on the diameter) but knowing what I know about high speed spinning parts I'd leave the crank alone. The block is much more rigid than the crank so I'd cut the block, even that the process of doing so is much more involved and more expensive.

Well said Meeps