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Can't go any faster after all....

Here's they guy that drove Kiwi's car!

Screenshot_20181026-192648_Google.jpg
 
good luck Mike

don't stop trying
you'll get there
you have plenty of power
the car needs to work better
it isn't too heavy either


like suggested by a couple of trusted members,
especially Doug's suggestions & comments
I'd try the shock & settings
if your shocks aren't capable, get ones that are

test baby test, test & tune day
(cool day with good air won't hurt either)
not at the races,
do it when you can get multiple passes in
side by side comparisons

something else,
has nothing to do with weight transfer or traction
I also wonder if the 'Throttle stop' is killing power too
 
Last edited:
1) I have NO throttle stop.
2) I am DONE trying things different.
3) I am NOT going to spend a lot of money on shocks to see if that will make a difference.
4) I am not going to spend a lot of money to tub it for 14" wide slicks and ladder bars.
I am now 100% satisfied with my setup and that 10.15 is my quickest ET that is going to happen with my car.
I am going to put the 120lbs back into the rear of the car, set my transbrake chip back to 3600rpm and reset my tires back to my normal 17lbs and run 10.15 to 10.17 all day and go racing.

16450.jpeg Screenshot (5).pngd
The 2 pictures above are typical launches with my "old" setup, before I took 120lbs out of the rear launching at 3600rpm with 17lbs of air with 1.40 60 foots and 10.15 to 10.17 ETs all at over 131mph.
 
Mike, I know with your experience you'll find a way.
Still just as a personal observation, it seems that we are all addicted to the idea of just going a bit faster. It's in our blood. But a step back would suggest that as bracket or index racers all we need to do is hit a number regardless of what that number is to be a winner. What comes to mind is a couple of guys I've raced with for years. They basically have 12 second cars they have stuck with throughout the entire time and they are both deadly. I try to remember that with my car but it never works, I just want to go faster.
 
Shorthorse said:
Mike, I know with your experience you'll find a way.
Still just as a personal observation, it seems that we are all addicted to the idea of just going a bit faster. It's in our blood. But a step back would suggest that as bracket or index racers all we need to do is hit a number regardless of what that number is to be a winner. What comes to mind is a couple of guys I've raced with for years. They basically have 12 second cars they have stuck with throughout the entire time and they are both deadly. I try to remember that with my car but it never works, I just want to go faster.
Click to expand...
Mr. Shorthorse,
Thanks for your comments. As I posted above I am now understand with my current setup the car has reached its potential and I am fine with that. The expense of attempting to continue to go faster is now to the point of several thousand more dollars and I am not going to sink that money into my beloved MOPAR EXPRESS...plus I am not going to cut the car up to make it lighter to go faster and make it so its not 100% streetable and street legal.
 
Mike, throw 100-120 lbs in at the very back and you will set a new PB. Keep at it Buddy.
 
It doesn't cost a dime to turn the knobs on the shocks.
Doug
 
What's the car weigh now and what's the weight bias? Had a problem with a 68 roadrunner pulling the fronts a good 10" or better then setting them down too fast which was unloading the rears. I chased my tail doing all sorts of adjustments to the ladders, shocks, ride height, air pressures etc when I got to looking at a set of 50/50 medium duty front shocks that were hanging on the wall. WTH (whattaheck), set everything back to the way it was and threw on the 50/50 shocks and problem solved! It was a mid 10 second car so.....who knows. What you already have laying around might help you out. My car was a bit nose heavy and loose front shocks wasn't working....and just maybe you have too much HP for the combo now? Retard the timing a tad or fatten up the carb a bit or do both. Simple and cheap stuff still works. IIRC, my car weighed less but also had less HP. My RT's weren't the best in the west but the car moved from the middle on.
 
Can I assume you have already found the timing sweet spot and jetted for MPH?
I have not played with the shocks or preload as I have been chasing the SV1 carbs and going nuts with AFR recordings.
I wonder if increasing the preload on the cal-tracs help the 60.......
My next time out will bring me my 1st 8 second slip with my street driven heap! 8.50 is my limit and believe 10-12 lbs of boost will do it.:)
 
It's always nice to be able to adjust boost lol
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
Can I assume you have already found the timing sweet spot and jetted for MPH?
I have not played with the shocks or preload as I have been chasing the SV1 carbs and going nuts with AFR recordings.
I wonder if increasing the preload on the cal-tracs help the 60.......
My next time out will bring me my 1st 8 second slip with my street driven heap! 8.50 is my limit and believe 10-12 lbs of boost will do it.:)
Click to expand...
Cal Trac Techs tell me the "preload" on the bars is primarily only to make sure the car goes straight, not veering to left or right...if it veers left or right then the bar pre-load is used to make it go straight. Nothing to do with actual traction.
 
Mike,
Putting the 120lbs back in the trunk, putting my 3600 chip back in the transbrake and putting 17lbs of air back in the tires is EXACTLY what I am going to do....that is going BACK to my old setup.
Next race is Nov 17-18 and should be good adjusted altitude...probably in the 500 foot range.
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
Can I assume you have already found the timing sweet spot and jetted for MPH?
I have not played with the shocks or preload as I have been chasing the SV1 carbs and going nuts with AFR recordings.
I wonder if increasing the preload on the cal-tracs help the 60.......
My next time out will bring me my 1st 8 second slip with my street driven heap! 8.50 is my limit and believe 10-12 lbs of boost will do it.:)
Click to expand...
Yes to timing and jetting.....37 degrees timing and 93/93 on my 1050 Dominator. This gives me the best ET (10.158) and the highest MPH (131.54)...which I am ok with.
Car weighs 3780lbs with me and 5 gal gas and it does NOT have a roller cam and is ONLY 12.2-1 Compression Ratio...Cal Tracs with bias ply Hoosiers that are only 11.25" wide. 5000 Converter....so I am ok with that ET and MPH for what it is.
In the correct trim (which I am going back to) the car pulls the front wheels about 12" to 14" for about 20 feet.
 
Mike Gaines said:
1) I have NO throttle stop.
.
Click to expand...
I could have swore you showed a photo
or talked about using (a delay box & ?} a throttle stop,
to help you compete in Bracket racings/consistency
at one time or other

sorry
I must have confused your set up
with someone else's, I would assume

& it won't happen again :bananadance:

good luck
with what ever you choose
it's your car, you cash & your time
 
Mike,
For what it's worth, with a D.A. at around 500, I would be jetting at 98 or 99 squared on my dominator. I know every setup is different but that's what my car likes when testing it.
The car went from 10.0's in the heat jetted at 90 with a DA around 3500 down to low 9.70's with DA around 500.
 
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