Car keeps stalling after changing lifters and push rods?

[Dk440]

Dirty carbs will make plenty of problems...needs to be taken care of, even if just hitting 'em with some Berryman's B-12.


Any ideas why the lifters cracked? Don't remember the term used, but setting lash on solids is best done using that method. Bet one of the guys jumps my bones on that one, but it's the prefered way. Critical part is getting #1 right, first. Maybe some valve over-lapping going on there.

My "renovned" engine builder put the oiling holes facing the sky on the right side lifter assembly......!;-)

 

[miller]

Yep, that explains it.

 

[moobster]

Is that an aluminum head engine?

Here's a blurb from the Crane website:
Compensating for a Cold Engine when Adjusting Valve Lash

When installing a new cam, the engine will be cold but the lash specifications are for a hot engine. What are you to do? There is a correction factor that can be used to get close. We mentioned that the alloy of the engine parts can be affected by thermal expansion in different ways, therefore the amount of correction factor to the lash setting depends on whether the cylinder heads and block is made out of cast iron or aluminum. You can take the “hot” setting given to you in the catalog or cam specification card and alter it by the following amount to get a “cold” lash setting.

With iron block and iron heads, add .002”
With iron block and aluminum heads, subtract .006”
With both aluminum block and heads, subtract .012”.

 

[Dk440]

Yep, alu-heads hence the 0.006 substraction;-)

 

[moobster]

Yep, alu-heads hence the 0.006 substraction;-)

The carbs could be outta sync. Did you have the the carbs off? Did you have the throttle linkage off?

 

[moparsquid]

id check the fuel pump I use a electric and id move the msd inside heat maybe affecting it

 

[Dk440]

I didnt remove the carbs. I have re-adjusted the carbs using the sync tool, checked the idle mixture screws, reset the idle set screws and readjusted the kick-down linkage - to the best of my abilities that is hoping to fix the problem. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, so cant tell if it is ok or not.
A picture of one of the carbs....

 

[scot]

Do you run non-ethanol gas ? If it's been sitting with **** gas (aka ethanol) in the carbs for 6-8 months I'd be pulling the tops of the carbs off for a look.

 

[moobster]

It definetly sounds fuel related. Actually sounds like it's running out of gas. Were the fuel lines always routed, like what's in the first picture, of this post? The left carb fuel line and filter, look like they could get pretty hot, being that close to the exhaust manifold. Vapour lock???

 

[Johnpat]

I looked at what you changed,sounds like lifters
adjusted correctly.
You also said you changed rotor & cap.
I know this sounds weird but check & make sure
rotor is not moving up on shaft.
I'd put old rotor & cap back on if it was running
fine before,see what happens.

 

[WileE]

Drain all the old gasoline out & put fresh gasoline in the tank. Then start looking elsewhere.

 

[dvw]

Only 3 posibilities. One ; fuel Two; spark Three; valve train too tight. When it stalls does it have spark? Pull a plug wire. What type of ignition? Check for a misrouted, pinched, frayed, grounded, or loose wire to the distributor/coil. Does it have fuel in the carb? Is it flooded (engine would chug and run rough before stalling). When it gets warm does it loose it's lash and hold the valves open? How did you determine where the lobe was when you set the lash? I don't buy carbs not synched. Not necessary. Never done it. Been running multiple carb motors over 30 years without issue. I don't buy internal carb issue either. Crossram motors will run on one carb. Both carbs didn't majically screw up at the same time. It is posible that the ignition coil went bad, or points adjustment, timing off. But I doubt it. My bet is wiring to the ignition system.
Doug

 

[bigaadams]

check rotor and cap for proper contact and positioning and spring tension of the carbon core.

 

[Dk440]

I am so tired of this - it iddles strong.........and then dies. And now it has a strange hissing sound coming from the right side of the engine too - like a constant flow of air or something like that. I am done. I will take it apart again, and check the lifters when I am in the mood.........maybe some time next year!

 

[Johnpat]

Sometimes good to take a break.
I know it is sometimes frustrating,chill out
& do some thinking.
You are overcome with all our ideas.

 

[scot]

And now it has a strange hissing sound coming from the right side of the engine too - like a constant flow of air or something like that.

Possible vacuum leak ? Double check your vacuum lines/hoses.

 

[Ski 61701]

Vacuum leak, take an unlit propane torch and while engine is running go around intake mounting areas with propane, if idle smooths out or jumps up you found your leak. Check the round intake plugs make sure o rings arent torn and plug is snug.
Another thing to look at is the gasket thickness, if you have an oem intake I've seen people shave intake face to match heads when they have been milled excessively. Did you compare old intake gaskets to new ones especially the thickness? Hopefully propane torch test will help narrow things down
Since you changed lifters are you sure you have solids and not hydraulics? I could see if wrong lifters are used might be trying to pump up and possibly holding valves open a tad and compression is leaking past valve seats??

 

[moobster]

Only 3 posibilities. One ; fuel Two; spark Three; valve train too tight. When it stalls does it have spark? Pull a plug wire. What type of ignition? Check for a misrouted, pinched, frayed, grounded, or loose wire to the distributor/coil. Does it have fuel in the carb? Is it flooded (engine would chug and run rough before stalling). When it gets warm does it loose it's lash and hold the valves open? How did you determine where the lobe was when you set the lash? I don't buy carbs not synched. Not necessary. Never done it. Been running multiple carb motors over 30 years without issue. I don't buy internal carb issue either. Crossram motors will run on one carb. Both carbs didn't majically screw up at the same time. It is posible that the ignition coil went bad, or points adjustment, timing off. But I doubt it. My bet is wiring to the ignition system.
Doug

I can't see the ignition quitting all together with him being able to start it right away after it stalls. A loose ignition wire has a tendency to cause back firing, then blow the mufflar off, not just quit and then fire right back up again.
I too, have run multiple carbs. From dual quad inlines, to 6 packs, to cross rams, to 6- 2 barrel Strombergs on an old fenton intake, basicaly 2 progressively linked 6 packs run in tandem. Unless you get them all working together...they don't run well.

 

[dvw]

Just throwing out ideas. Yes Intermetant wiring can wreck havoc. My job is debugging Chrysler prototype electrical issues at Auburn Hills tech center. We see all kinds of crazy stuff that makes us say "wouldn't have believed it"
Doug

 

[Dk440]

check rotor and cap for proper contact and positioning and spring tension of the carbon core.

Spring tension was definately too low. I have re-gapped it and put the old cap back on, but havent had a chance to fire it ( the Miss´ dryes clothes in the garage, and does nyt like the smell of Chanel 99-Octane )

Vacuum leak, take an unlit propane torch and while engine is running go around intake mounting areas with propane, if idle smooths out or jumps up you found your leak. Check the round intake plugs make sure o rings arent torn and plug is snug.
Another thing to look at is the gasket thickness, if you have an oem intake I've seen people shave intake face to match heads when they have been milled excessively. Did you compare old intake gaskets to new ones especially the thickness? Hopefully propane torch test will help narrow things down
Since you changed lifters are you sure you have solids and not hydraulics? I could see if wrong lifters are used might be trying to pump up and possibly holding valves open a tad and compression is leaking past valve seats??

This is new to the list as of Saturday after the car stalled last. The engine died when driving approx 60km/h and before coming to a complete halt, the engine "popped". I t fired right back up, but now had this strange whine/hissing sound coming from the right side of the engine and idled at 1500rpm. The manifold is Sealed using only sealant - no gaskets.......but it sounded like coming from the valve cover/lifter assembly ( though difficult to pinpoint with high lift cam and 3" exhaust )
Sure on the solid lifters. Lash was set using the guide from Summit on youtube: