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Carb replacement question

68suprB

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Looking to get rid of the stock Carter AVS carb on my 383, with stock intake manifold. I want to keep the stock manifold but put an aftermarket carb on it, but I notice there aren't many intakes out there in the aftermarket world with the four holes on top, only the one big one. Will any aftermarket carb function on my stock intake?
 
a 1/2 inch spacer will give plenty of clearance for the butterflys on almost any carb you want to run.other wise you need to get an exact measurement on the holes and find a carb whos butterflys will fit.(you will end up with a rather small carb that way sadly)
 
The top of the air cleaner looks like it almost hits the insulation on on the hood, so i think a spacer is out.... What i need to know is will any carb bolt up to an intake w the four holes? (obviously with matching bolt patterns) All the intake manifolds i can find only have one big opening vs the four holes on my stock manifold
 
The bolt holes that hold the carb on the manifold will most likely match up so mounting it won't be a problem. If you are referring the barrels of the carb, they too should mate up nicely. I am assuming you are using a square bore type carburetor currently and your manifold is a square bore as well. By square bore, I mean all four barrels are the same diameter as opposed to a spread bore (i.e. Quadrajet commonly found on GM vehicles).

This is a spread bore carb bottom:

vgldtf.jpg


This is what a squarebore manifold looks like:

2ahz6yx.jpg


Does your manifold look like this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Vi...t=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr


Hope that helps
 
The AVS is a good carb when properly built and adjusted. They can make good power. I had a 68 RR that I put a Holley 650 on, and the AVS worked better, so switched it back. But I think many of the Holley carbs will fit on the stock intake. The Eddy performer series carb should fit your intake and work well.
 
The big question is what year 383? The older cars (67 and older I think) had the narrow pattern AFB. Yes, you can put a new square bore carb, either Holley or Edelbrock, on a later intake but the earlier one has the narrow bolt pattern so you need to make sure the carb is compatible. I'm running a 750 Eddy on a factory iron intake and no problems.
 
Ok, I wasn't clear on what "square bore" actually meant...but now i am after some more research and Art's pictures *thanks*...The reason i was looking to get a new carb is i am running into some issues with startup and the gas running back out of the carb and fuel line after i turn the engine off, but I think its a tank vent issue now that i know what to look at. There is only the one long vent line on the fuel tank and i think it's building up a vacuum when the engine is running and sucking the fuel out, then the suction is too strong when the fuel pump isn't pulling fuel and it drains it back into the tank. Thanks for the help guys
 
The 2 valves in the fuel pump are one way valves I believe. So the fuel should not run back toward the tank even if the vent is plugged. It would tend to collapse your tank. But just to check it out, raise the car securely, and look at the front of the tank above the axle. There should be 2 short black fuel line hoses go from the top of the tank to 2 metal lines. remove these and see if they are plugged. Of The 2 metal lines, one goes up and bends back down. And seems like the other one goes over to the wheel well. One is a vent tube, the other a fuel overflow tube. This is the case on my 69 Road Runner. And you are working on a 68 Super Bee, right? Should be similar if not the same. I put hose clamps back on mine, with new hose. The factory has a permanent type clamp on them that you have to cut off with snips. Be safe!
 
To use a different carb you may need to open the holes up a bit to clear the throttle blade of a aftermarket carb

I know the Edelbrock 600 will clear a 67 383 intake, But its smaller then the stock carb. I like to use stock stuff myself, Theres plenty of power in there with some tuning. You could always run an aftermarket intake and paint it to look more stock.
 
Yes it's a '68 super bee, w a '68 383, all stock except for the pertronix ignition and a comp cam....as far as the vents in the fuel tank go, right now it has 2 lines coming from the pickup in the tank, looking at the tank from the front of the car the left line goes to the fuel pump, the right line (which i understand to be a return line for 440 and hemi motors) is ran directly into the LEFT vent line so the left vent line isn't actually functioning as a vent line. The RIGHT vent line is the long one which runs into the trunk and back down into the trunk floor. I just ordered both new vent lines from year one, so it will soon be done correctly. The recurring problem I'm having is if the car is cold, i have to pump the gas 10-15 times and it fires right up.
Unless I keep the throttle 1/4 open, the car will stall and not start back up unless someone manually holds the throttle open at the linkage on the carb (I'm guessing this opens the secondaries and gives it the fuel it needs?) After this it runs fine but after turning it off there's no guarantee it's gonna start again. Like i said the fuel can be seen running back down out of the fuel filter and draining out into the tank, and air bubbles can be seen coming into the fuel filter from below...The entire fuel line is brand new so that's not the issue, so I've narrowed it down to the tank vents, which obviously aren't done right, or a carb issue. The carb was rebuilt by UREMCO in 2010, but who knows how long it could have sat with crappy gas in it between then and when i bought the car last feb...
 
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