How about a claw swing- press??
Changing a pulley on an alternator
- Thread starter Kern Dog
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MMorgan
Well-Known Member
I’ve heard that you put alternator in freezer, heat pully slip it on. I know this will generate some laughs, but it works..
Bryan Lohmiller
Member
Didn't use the freezer just put my propane torch on it for a while then it just fell right off with light pulling and the new one went on with no issues after heating too. And pullers didn't work busted 2 pullers trying to get them off before I remembered heat should work
sam dupont
Well-Known Member
I worked in a starter alternator rebuild factory and pulled many a pulley. They had a hydraulic set up and pulleys gave no resistance. They didn't care if it cracked or broke a case but for us, some people have to think about date correct cases
I just rebuilt the 60a that I'm going to use on my 65 Coronet. Because I'm going to serpentine belt had to change the pulley. Pulled the old one with puller and took the alt apart and pressed the new pulley on. Bought my press about 30 yrs ago from a guy that I used to work with that had passed. Don't use it that often, but when you need one there is no substitute. Trying to get it tested is another story.
sam dupont
Well-Known Member
The easiest test is to see if the rear cap bearing is magnetic when running. It won't tell you anything except if it is making power or not, but it's a good first step in troubleshooting. Be careful, don't short any posts
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That's pretty cheap even if it needs a new jack....
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IMO.....the sheave (aka pulley) is an interference fit on the shaft with out a key. A jaw puller pulling from the end of shaft ( actually reacting on the shaft end with the jaws around the sheave'pullimg groove). To put the sheave back on and positioned correctly, it is pressed on....with a 0,0015" - 0.002" interference fit. The alternator must be disassembled exposing the brush end of the shaft and brush end bearing...the wiring does not need to be removed, but this would be an excellent time to replace the drive end bearing (#6203SZ sealed both sides single row ball bearing...any brand...SKF, NTN, RBC, etc). Support the alternator assembly with the he brush end bearing's shaft on the pressing plate, and starting the drive end shaft and sheave facing the pressing ram, slowly start to press the sheave on the shaft, making sure it's square. Continue to press the sheave to the required depth as measured AND RECORDED b4 pulling the sheave off from the shaft end to the measured ID depth. The shaft absorbes the pressing forces not the aluminum housing or bearing. This way the pressing on dimension can be controlled rather than heating the sheave and trying to guess the exact position b4 it cools off.
BTW....in power transmission lingo, a pulley is used on a rubber belt type conveyor EITHER as a head pulley (drive end) or idler pulley (tail or idler end) of the conveyor with toughing rollers to support the moving belt along the length of the conveyor. Anyway......Just my thoughts and opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
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Yup....I know what a 'shiv' is....and as a journeyman machinist, I would never 'mate' something with that small of a bore .002" tight and .001" is plenty tight.
Exactly what I did. Rock Auto has the parts for rebuild pretty reasonable.
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