Changing head bolts

[diesel_lv]

I covered this in my big block book. ARP makes studs that are slightly shorter that screw in to the block farther. I've pointed this out to ARP, TTI and others over the years. Nobody seems to pay attention.

I've never bought a book on rebuilding an engine. I'm definitely not a master mechanic, worked on helicopters for 23 yrs. Turbine engines etc.. built S&S motors, Ford 4.6 DOHC's, using the factory manuals. Unfortunately I got lazy and didn't read the notes on TTI. Could have saved myself some time. You are correct though, ARP or TTI should identify that there are shorter studs that will work, since they are aware of it.

 

[Cranky]

I've never bought a book on rebuilding an engine. I'm definitely not a master mechanic, worked on helicopters for 23 yrs. Turbine engines etc.. built S&S motors, Ford 4.6 DOHC's, using the factory manuals. Unfortunately I got lazy and didn't read the notes on TTI. Could have saved myself some time. You are correct though, ARP or TTI should identify that there are shorter studs that will work, since they are aware of it.

It just depends on who answers the phone. Never had any problems when calling ARP but years ago, Comp Cams had some dummies working for them. It got to the point where I didn't want to deal with them anymore. When ordering parts, over half the order would be wrong and tech info over the phone was a joke. And having the internet these was a huge game changer for getting info but even now, you can still spend a LOT of time researching stuff and still not get the info you're looking for.

 

[andyf]

I've never bought a book on rebuilding an engine. I'm definitely not a master mechanic, worked on helicopters for 23 yrs. Turbine engines etc.. built S&S motors, Ford 4.6 DOHC's, using the factory manuals. Unfortunately I got lazy and didn't read the notes on TTI. Could have saved myself some time. You are correct though, ARP or TTI should identify that there are shorter studs that will work, since they are aware of it.

Here is the picture I sent to TTI a few years back. I proved to them that if you use the correct ARP stud then everything fits just fine. They never changed their notes. I also told ARP that if they switched the studs in their kits then the kits would work with more headers. They never made the switch. I don't run either company so I can't make them do anything but a solution exists right on the shelf. ARP already has these other studs in production so it is no big deal for them to just use them.

 

[Cranky]

When a company changes the way they do things, it's something that usually costs them money and even if it's a minute amount, they still don't want to since it takes time and effort. Usually, the bigger they are, the more it pains them for some reason. Bean counters maybe? Use to be I could buy 3/8x24 rod nuts from the catalog and then one day they were no longer listed. Thought that was kinda odd but never tried to just call and order anymore.

 

[BSB67]

Never had to 'beat' on them unless there was something wrong. 95% or better came out just by some moderate tapping.

Yep. Tap them out. Same torque on the old as the new.