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Changing plugs with headers installed..tricks, tools or tips?

64SF

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64 B body, low deck (400 block iron heads), Headman headers, power steering. Changing plugs is a pain... I have the small plug heads (440-3). Has anyone modified a tool that makes it an easier job or any tips or tricks that you use.
 
I recommend make your own tools (shortened sockets,welded extensions if you must) l run msd ignition.it very forgiving so you don’t change plugs often
 
I feel your pain,really a pain in the butt.
 
Here’s what I did...

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That’s funny, complaining about changing plugs in a B body! You should try it in an A body.

Although, on my A body 400/470, it’s not bad at all.
 
Must be those headers.

I’ve had 4 different sets in my 68 B body thru the years, plugs weren’t hard with any of them.
Some B and RB motors(and a 340 too).

I’ve had Eagle 1-3/4”, Hooker 2”, Hooker Competition 1-7/8”, TTi 2-2 1/8”.
 
Must be those headers.

I’ve had 4 different sets in my 68 B body thru the years, plugs weren’t hard with any of them.
Some B and RB motors(and a 340 too).

I’ve had Eagle 1-3/4”, Hooker 2”, Hooker Competition 1-7/8”, TTi 2-2 1/8”.
Same with mine, Hooker Super comps and zero issues changing plugs.
 
Oh, and do the change with a cold engine lol. Even used boxend of wrench on a couple to break them loose.
 
I have these from Snap-On. They work on all but 2 plugs, which I use a socket and a wrench, with a huge dose of patience.

20190228_215518.jpg
 
You're lucky, you have the small plugs!

I have to use a different tool or combination of tools for almost each plug. Of course a plug socket with the rubber inside. Different extensions. One plug I'll use a boxed end wrench. One or two plugs I'll use the plug socket with the hex to slip a boxed end wrench over that. A short piece of rubber hose that will fit the porcelain, works great after breaking the plug loose. Use it for installing the new plug also.
 
64FS, I have been dealing with a 64 bel big block since 1975, has had a big block in it since day one (426w) if you get your creeper out and roll under the car you will see that three of the plugs on the pass side are very easy to remove from the bottom, and one on the driver side, the rest are from the top, been changing the plugs this way for many years. Dave.
 
Obviously, most plugs you can get at with just a socket/ratchet. Here's the few tricks I've used over the years with various headers (many already mentioned)
a. Box end wrench (usually for the front two cylinders on each side, reaching down underneath the headers)
b. Using a small 3/8" breaker bar on the socket (more clearance vs. inner fenders compared to a ratchet, usually on middle cylinders)
c. Modified tools (e.g. grinding down sockets)
d. LONG (2ft.) extension going through wheel well access panel

Be creative! There's usually only one or two plugs that are hard to get to.
 
Obviously, most plugs you can get at with just a socket/ratchet. Here's the few tricks I've used over the years with various headers (many already mentioned)
a. Box end wrench (usually for the front two cylinders on each side, reaching down underneath the headers)
b. Using a small 3/8" breaker bar on the socket (more clearance vs. inner fenders compared to a ratchet, usually on middle cylinders)
c. Modified tools (e.g. grinding down sockets)
d. LONG (2ft.) extension going through wheel well access panel

Be creative! There's usually only one or two plugs that are hard to get to.
On my 63, with a 440 and headers, #6 and #7 will try my patience every time. The rest I can use my double swivel Snap-On spark plug socket that I posted above. I have been known to get so frustrated that I drain the anti-freeze and remove the passenger header. Along with a LOT of cussing!! :lol:
 
I don’t consider having to use a bunch of different tools for individual spark plugs making the job “harder” per se.
Once you know which plug takes what tools, and how you have to go about getting at it...... it’s just part of the drill.

Now, one of my friends had some B1BS heads on a 440 with 2” Hooker headers....... and as I recall, he said the quickest way to get the plugs out of the passenger side was to just pull the header off, and away from the head.

That was a “note to self......B1BS heads=no fun spark plug change”.

That’s in the “unacceptable” category for me....... and fully classifies it as a “PITA”.
 
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That’s funny, complaining about changing plugs in a B body! You should try it in an A body.

Although, on my A body 400/470, it’s not bad at all.
The worst I ever saw was a late 60s fairlane/rancheros with a big block and all the smog stuff intact. A plug change was measured in days, not hours.
 
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