RM23M9A
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Then, there's this mess.. What is the IDEAL Alternator and V.Regulator to have with Elect Ignition now? Hell I'm 50. This was never really a problem.
Charging Fine Except Nothing at Idle Speed
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RM23M9A
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Whoever performed the wiring in the pix, should also consider fixing shoes.....as in what a shoemaker's job...not exactly what the pix is showing or is supposed to be shown...other than how not to connect wires.
Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
hunt2elk
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Looks like your car would be a good candidate for a new engine side wire harness.
RM23M9A
Well-Known Member
Man, I HOPE thats all it is!
I have it, from Year One. Also new dash harness.
Have YOU experienced anything like this? Weird how just basically "Racing" pr Hot Rodding it a few times could cause it. If it had points I could see it. Maybe I cooked the Module?
Cheers!
RM23M9A
Well-Known Member
I agree 100%! New harness time. Maybe module as well
Runs smooth OUT OF GEAR, it seems.. Pretty stressed though. Was my Dads car.
RM23M9A
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MoparGuy68
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You guys should see what a mechanic put on my car, before I bought it. There is a FORD voltage regulator on it.. The factory wiring harness has been hacked to connect the Ford regulator. I was told by the previous owner that the mechanic did this out of frustration, trying to get the system to CHARGE, which it doesn't. I have to deal with this mess once I get the car drivable..
I may need a new engine harness too. A red wire loop has been installed in the voltage regulator connector, joining the green and blue wires where it would plug into the Mopar regulator. I haven't quite figured out what the hell the mechanic did here. The engine runs but no charging, amp gauge in dash always shows a little discharge state.
My car is a 1971, so it originally had standard ignition. It has been converted to electronic ignition with a single style ballast resistor. I dug out a photo of my 1971 Challenger from back in the 1990s. It also had electronic ignition conversion with a single style ballast resistor.
Factory electronic ignition cars had a dual ballast resistor on them. I have two dual resistors and two single resistors as extra parts. If a car was standard and then converted to electronic should it have a dual or single style ballast resistor? I guess the converted cars stay single because their wiring harness was designed for single?
I may need a new engine harness too. A red wire loop has been installed in the voltage regulator connector, joining the green and blue wires where it would plug into the Mopar regulator. I haven't quite figured out what the hell the mechanic did here. The engine runs but no charging, amp gauge in dash always shows a little discharge state.
My car is a 1971, so it originally had standard ignition. It has been converted to electronic ignition with a single style ballast resistor. I dug out a photo of my 1971 Challenger from back in the 1990s. It also had electronic ignition conversion with a single style ballast resistor.
Factory electronic ignition cars had a dual ballast resistor on them. I have two dual resistors and two single resistors as extra parts. If a car was standard and then converted to electronic should it have a dual or single style ballast resistor? I guess the converted cars stay single because their wiring harness was designed for single?
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RM23M9A
Well-Known Member
Wow! At least we CAN yank all of that crap out of there and replace it with all new OEM type wiring. The Electronic Ign. Part, is debatable, some harnesses want your to ADD a second harness for the ECU, then there is a harness set up for 70 and newer. Ive seen worse!
MoparGuy68
Well-Known Member
Check out this harness connector under the dash, above the throttle pedal.. I had to wiggle this around to just the right position so my gauges work. The side of the connector with the blue wire won't seat as far down as the other side. When I went to start the engine Monday, the gauges weren't working. Disconnecting and reconnecting this connector, several times and moving it around, got them working again.
Sometimes project cars don't look like project cars. Take this Super Bee for example. The junk yard looking wiring connector you see is actually inside it, along with the Ford voltage regulator. I wonder if it is the original 49+ year old connector.. Been working on this car on weekends now for over 5 months. Those photos were taken 2 weeks ago, it looked exactly the same 5 months ago. I debated about buying this car for 8 months, before finally pulling the trigger on it. I knew it would need work but NOT as much work as I've put into it, and there is still a ton of **** to do to it, to make it an actual car, that you can sit in and drive it around on roads, and do things with it that people would expect a car to do.
You people on here that work on those Basket Case Eternal Project cars that need EVERYTHING rebuilt on them and look like they have been rotting in a field for 50 years, you guys must be very brave and have an enormous amount of patience. I could not handle a car like that.. If I was given one of those for free, even if it was a Hemi car, I would decline to accept it. This one I have is overwhelming enough for me.
That overheated terminal is not uncommon on our cars.
I could say sooooo many things about lot of stuff being talked now, but I'm still lazy over my bed typing from my iPad making a quIck web reading around LOL... Maybe later will post from my Laptop.
I could say sooooo many things about lot of stuff being talked now, but I'm still lazy over my bed typing from my iPad making a quIck web reading around LOL... Maybe later will post from my Laptop.
Gerrs69rr
Well-Known Member
I was reading these older post looking for a reference for smaller alternator pully, any chance you have any info on the one you have. After countless hours of searching internet I can't find one. So in the true spirit of our hobby if you can't find one, make one! I ordered a smaller pully, and a brass bushing, now i need to drill out pully, insert bushing then drill bushing to correct size. I would rather buy one and avoid all my chances of messing it up.
RM23M9A
Well-Known Member
"Hemi cars" are a bit overrated I.M.O. unless you just like the huge *** valve covers..
Yeah, takes a lot of patience and knowledge learned over time of owning 7-20 of these cars, even then there will always be questions about something. From bodywork to electrical. Probaly why most owners I run across just prefer to buy one completely restored. Even then again, if you drive it? Everything wears out over time.
Yeah, takes a lot of patience and knowledge learned over time of owning 7-20 of these cars, even then there will always be questions about something. From bodywork to electrical. Probaly why most owners I run across just prefer to buy one completely restored. Even then again, if you drive it? Everything wears out over time.
RM23M9A
Well-Known Member
Thats actually a simple fix.
Replace ALL of the wiring harnesses, put the CORRECT alternator (60 amp) in it, and NO AFTERMARKET Crap like stereos, fuel pumps, stereo amplifiers, equalizers etc avoid shorting anything out you'll be good!
Probably just MY OpEd
RM23M9A
Well-Known Member
Ya know, R&R-ing dash & engine harnesses did help, found out MY problem, was the CRAP Chinese alternator, the FIELD Terminal brush had a STEEL WASHER between the spade terminal and the housing, causing a short to ground anytime car was running. I simply REPLACED the Communist washer with a PLASTIC one from an E Bay seller, thing maintains 12.6 V like a champ from April 26 1969 !
440+6
Well-Known Member
I just measured the pulley it's 2 and 3/4 inches overall diameter, can't remember what the old one was. The alternator shop just had these things laying around so I couldn't tell you model number, I was there no more than 20 minutes and walked out with a new pully on my alternator, if I remember correctly I think I paid $25
Gerrs69rr
Well-Known Member
Just got word we have a place like that here in VA Beach, gonna go check that out Monday. My pulley is 2 3/4, looking for 2 1/2, I just need a hair more rpm at idle and I'll be able to be at a red light at night, a/c going, fuel pump running and not have to put it in neutral to keep everything running. Thanks for the reply, I'll post my results
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IMO...
When measuring the alternator sheave (aka "pulley"), the important dimension is the pitch diameter (P.D.) not the outside diameter (O.D.). The pitch diameter is measured where the belt contacts the sheave's flank angle or approximately half the distance from the OD of the sheave to the innermost dimension of the "V" of the sheave. This could result in a 1/2" - 3/4" dimension dimension difference. This only applies to the standard V groove sheave. Usually, Serpentine drives use a flat sheave on the alternator.
BOB RENTON
66 Sat
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Question: If you use a slightly smaller pulley can the alternator 'over rev" at high engine rpm?
I've thought myself of changing the pulley to smaller one (pitch diameter of course), but wondered what effect it might have at high revs, as it's obviously spinning much faster than the engine and the extra engine revs would be multiplied by whatever factor the smaller pulley gives.
If there is no issue then why don't they put a smaller pulley on to begin with?
I've thought myself of changing the pulley to smaller one (pitch diameter of course), but wondered what effect it might have at high revs, as it's obviously spinning much faster than the engine and the extra engine revs would be multiplied by whatever factor the smaller pulley gives.
If there is no issue then why don't they put a smaller pulley on to begin with?
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There are several factors involved.
1. The maximum design RPM of the rotating field. I do not know that is but if exceeded, the rotor will catastrophically self destruct.
2. As the RPM is increased, the HP required to drive the rotor increases up to the limit that the belt can transmit.
3. Windage losses also increases as the RPM is increased
4. Bearing life decreases.
The factory has likely selected, thru extensive testing during the development stage, a nominal PD, to maximize alternator life, minimize HP losses, and compromised the low RPM output based on origional electrical demands. The world will not come to an end if the amp gauge does not read in the positive all the time.....the battery capacity is designed to supplant transitory loads during low RPM operation. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
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